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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Roadside Crag : Roadside Attraction (5.7)
By: Gaar When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: PLEASE DO NOT rap/belay off the little tree!!! Man up for this big O 5.7 and do it in one pitch! You can TR/Rap with a 60m rope so there is no need to break it up. I have cut enough slings off that thing over the past 10 years, and slowly watched it die. Really there is no need! If you need to break it up, go climb elsewhere
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Electrica (5.11+ PG13)
By: Gaar When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.11b---Yellow alien /TCU protects the start AFTER you do some solo 5.10 climbing. Man this thing is fun! You can get down with a 70m. Have to down climb the first 5 feet, easy
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's
By: Gaar When: Oct 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Dirt road is now gated, and locked due to spraypainters.....Seek alt. approach....Not sure if it should be posted how to get there now.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Only the Good Die Young (5.11c)
By: Gaar When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the info
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Only the Good Die Young (5.11c)
By: Gaar When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I noticed all the pitches are short (less then 100') Does the route traverse too much to rap back down it??
Thoughts?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Winter Heat Wall : Winter Heat (5.11)
By: Gaar When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found plenty of soild gear from good stances.... A few small nuts, a few med nuts, and a grey alien
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : Burlier's Bane (5.12a)
By: Gaar When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember when this was 11b....ahhh the good ol days of sandbaggin
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : Huecos Rancheros (5.12c)
By: Gaar When: Jun 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got on the new route about 2 weeks ago....I found it to be about 11+/12-....It is a little heady lead, as you doing solid climbing, well above bolts is super soft sandstone, and gound fall for the first 4 bolts is possible. Alot of the holds were still very fragil due to lack of traffic, but near the top the route almost splits. You can go way left into super sandy easy heucos, or go right through near imposibble crimps (5.13) I did both ways neither is quite fun.
Personally this line is no w... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happie... : Happy Boulders : ... : Mister Witty (V6 PG13)
By: Gaar When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my first onsight of the grade last winter...felt a little easy for v6 more of a one-two move wonder. Commiting moves higher up are easy for me (thank you trad climbing) but I watched many people, unwilling to commit to the last move and get shut down. GREAT PROBLEM
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Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon (Veyo) : Photo
By: Gaar When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: And yet I get scalded based on my opening commit...This is the PROOF
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Cherry Crack (5.10c)
By: Gaar When: May 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: for the second half...its easier to do it as one long pitch, you will need two #3, two #3.5, three #4, and two #4.5 camolots...There are plenty of places to place a number 5 (#6 c4) but not needed.
take spare webbing for the anchor..so few people do the upper half it is pretty mank.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Chicken Eruptus (5.10 R)
By: Gaar When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best single pitch climbs I have ever done..(and i've done alot.) Never really felt runout, except for the topout but thats 5.5
The grade is right on at 10b. If low tens are you lead limit, I wouldnt reccomend this climb. The gear is all there but this is a climb in which you need to know what the hell your doing. Alot of little creative placments make this thing awsome!!!
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Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Harbingers (5.11b)
By: Gaar When: Apr 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climb, but the anchors are in a really dumb location. Plenty of good rock in line with the rest of the climb. O well.
5.10d
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Sentinel : Photo
By: Gaar When: Apr 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Cragging area, with more to come.
Park at or get off the shuttle at the Court and walk down the service road. to the foot bridge crossing the river. Turn left after the bridge, and hike the Sand bench trail after five min. turn left at the first fork. Stay on the and bench trail for 20 more mins. Staying right at the 2nd fork. You will end up at the base of a giant sage field heading up toward the wall. Make your way up and right across the field looking for the straight face splitter that ... more >>
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Location: UT : Saint George : Crawdad Canyon (Veyo)
By: Gaar When: Mar 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My opinions are in regards to the grid bolting ethics, GLUED on holds, and the fact that you have to pay to climb. This area is a good idea, just the local ethics, and practices are making climbing a joke. Therefor I don't climb here. Do what you want, but I don't climb to be accepted by you or anyone else, I do it for myself. If you want short approaches to climbs that are overbolted, crowded, and listen to people who cant control their temper, go here; or a gym. Its the same feeling.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Black Rocks : Shady Side : Flying off the Handle (5.12b)
By: Gaar When: Mar 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.12a not 12b Waist cliping the 4th bolt is the easiest opition
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Unknown (5.10-)
By: Gaar When: Mar 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Better then the pic gives credit for.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Big Money (5.9)
By: Gaar When: Mar 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Discription
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : South East Butress (5.10+)
By: Gaar When: Mar 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I dont know why the pic looks bad but if you click it is a high res!?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Running Man Wall : Running Man (5.11)
By: Gaar When: Feb 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is more like a 105ft tall. A 60 Will get you down with about nothing to spare if you swing a little right. KNOT YOUR ENDS!!!
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Intruder (5.11+)
By: Gaar When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Much harder then Dire Wolf...But really good none the less
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Photo
By: Gaar When: Jan 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This looks like an old pic...so I wont judge....Pleas try not to climb on this boulder anymore..it has some pictographs on/near it.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Unnamed 9+ (5.9+)
By: Gaar When: Dec 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: good warm up.....4 blue camolots and approach shoes make this worthwile
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Fleet Street (5.8 R)
By: Gaar When: Dec 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Decent route, but apparently two fucking idiots who are not willing to donate at least 1 good hanger, put it up!!!bolts are good but hangers are mank..You can get a decent nut before the first "bolt" and a mirco wire, and a larger cam after the second "not quite a bolt".
Just shows the work that people are willing to go through to put up a new route..They must be and accepting local ethics.
Assholes
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Zoo : Scar Tissue (5.12a)
By: Gaar When: Nov 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 15ft right!! not left
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