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Rock Climbing Photo: Krunk Juice 12d (probably 2nd ascent?) Zion NP Pho...


Member Since: Feb 10, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Gaar

Point Rank: # 920
Total Points: 869
Last Year: 50
Last 30 Days: 9
69 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Gaar been climbing?










Contributions


All 412 | Routes 28 | Areas 4 | Photos 81 | Page Improvements | Comments 124 | Posts 69 | Stars 68 | Ratings 38
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anc... : Bolt Pr0n [OFFICIAL THREAD] : Post : Photo
By: Gaar When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: Them are sexy


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Desert Vuarnet (5.11+) : Photo
By: Gaar When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: Simmer down now....This is soft sandstone, not your pristine valley granite that has it's own history, and more then enough carvings...all the plaques here will wash and wither away when you're dead. They won't last for 100's of years. If you know where to look you can still see that fire fall cant you!

What about all the metal plaques across the country?


Rock Climbing Photo: Muir
Muir



Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Desert Vuarnet (5.11+) : Photo
By: Gaar When: Sep 3, 2016

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Comments: Sorry I do get it....I live at the creek and it is why I moved there..Have you even been to the creek. To start 75% of climbs there have plaques. Most from the 80's when nobody gave a flying fuck about the environment. (Think whale skinned pink cadillac while eating a styrofoam Mcdonadls burger)

Titanium glue in bolts Don't rust out, Carbon steel bolts won't rust out. Bolt holes and swing stains from chains don't ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Desert Vuarnet (5.11+) : Photo
By: Gaar When: Sep 2, 2016

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Comments: This is going to be a good one...

"Route names and the trivial history of rock climbs belong in guidebooks, not scratched into the rock where they will endure for hundreds to thousands of years."....

But those grid bolts will go away in hundreds of years? What about the shit stain on the wall that is Incredible hand crack?

Just citing the essence of oxymoron in your statement.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Leaning Wall : Karmic Edges (5.11c)
By: Gaar When: Jun 1, 2016

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Comments: no they needed replacement then, we just sacked up...it's climbing in zion...it's not supposed to be safe! is it?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Other Mill Creek Areas : diente de perro (5.12)
By: Gaar When: May 20, 2016

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Comments: First 2 bolts on the FA then out of frame for what I felt was the crux

Diente
.


Thanks Jeff B for the motivated belay


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek
By: Gaar When: May 17, 2016

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Disgraceful!! These are the people who etch their ...
Disgraceful!! These are the people who etch their name next to a petroglyph!! Some of these plaques are no older then the current climbing generation!



Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Dynamic Dentistry (5.12-)
By: Gaar When: May 10, 2016

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Comments: mountainproject.com/v/new-ugly...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Warrior Tower : Direct Start to Happy Hunti... (5.12)
By: Gaar When: Apr 22, 2016

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Comments: About 10 ft of piss hardness stemming near the top....wild climbing!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek
By: Gaar When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments:
.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Beauty and the Beast (5.12-)
By: Gaar When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: Could be a lil harder if you place as much gear as is talked about above..

Placed
2 green alien, 3x.3, 3x.4, 1 Grey alien.

9 Pieces in 60' for an OS...Still kinda heavy


And the name is

BEAUTY IN THE BEAST!!! not Beauty and the beast


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : FF1 (5.11)
By: Gaar When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: DA DAMN! this is fun! Think IncredibleHC but wide 3's

Replaced with chains this week. could us a new bolt eventually, but the HONG (not petro) bolt is still good for now.

placed 1 #2gold
1 #3 friend
6 # 3 camolot
1 #3.5 camolot (Barley fit, found a taper) Didn't take a new 4. Would NOT have fit

4 friends are PERFECT!


Our Sterling 70m reached with 2 person stretch..Used a cord-olette to retrieve


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2) : Photo
By: Gaar When: Feb 20, 2016

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Comments: The original went up the tree! Thats a bolted variation...the tree is more fun


Location: UT : Moab Area
By: Gaar When: Jan 2, 2016

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Comments: New Year Blocks
.


Location: UT : Moab Area : La Sal Mountains : Upper Dakota Crag : Trenchtown : Alpha Blondy (5.12-)
By: Gaar When: Dec 27, 2015

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Comments: Route to the left is 12b and goes to the same anchor. starts with a v4 and some cool shallow mono/pockets just above the left side of the shanty.. Put it up in 2011


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge
By: Gaar When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: As of today (dec8th) with a normal 4LO, competent driver, and a very small set of nuts you can drive back to godhead north and park at the oil pad..Further then that you'll want more vehicle....


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : Double Fault (5.12)
By: Gaar When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: Hard onsight....but got the freebee 5.8 to the right....I think I did that backwards


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : Shadow Boxing (5.10)
By: Gaar When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: best route in the refuge


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : Hallelujah (5.11)
By: Gaar When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: Great route 11b/c....Did this and onsighted the thing next to it "budda belly"?

Felt the belly was 12b. A good belayer for going to the 3rd (crux) bolt is nice for the mind. Looked like an easier path traversing right, but puts you into a bad fall/swing potential


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : Damsels in Distress (5.10 PG13)
By: Gaar When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: Great Pitch! place 2 supplemental pieces.

Thank you to whomever chopped the "retro-bolt" of this!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : High Man on the Shmotem Pol... (5.11-)
By: Gaar When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: Great first pitch!! Loved it!!!

Sooo...the 2nd pitch, for those curious...All the hangers are on this so I am assuming it has been done by now.


Great setting and wonderful location add dramatically to this pitch. Sadly the rock quality greatly diminishes by the 4th bolt. Looks like someone tried to glue a few holds, but it's like 50years worth of nachos glued to the wall.

9-10 bolts 100'
11d if you're tall
12a if you're opposite tall


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : The Shmotem Pole (5.10b)
By: Gaar When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: Ha...Fun


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon
By: Gaar When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: For everyone doing anchor replacement/updating. Thank you! May I suggest a tube of super glue or thread lock. Those fixe anchors are great, but don't have any form of lock. Nut, washer, etc.. With torque and cycle loading it's super easy for them to back off just a little. I found ~20 bolts/anchors (new ones) that were hand tight in a two week period...Tightened a few with the nut tool. But worth carrying a wrench or thread lock.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : Ojos del Diablo (5.11c)
By: Gaar When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: Fun route! Long! Placed a nut to the first bolt, and a blue metolious to the anchor. 15bolts, maybe 16. 165ft. Falls would be big, but clean. Didn't have to test that theory.

Some crispiness, but good like Damsels


Location: UT : Moab Area : La Sal Mountains : Upper Dakota Crag : Trenchtown : Skydog (5.10b)
By: Gaar When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: Whole climb goes on solid gear...can choose to skip bolts as desired


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