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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Idol Point : Spectre (5.11c)
By: furrymurry When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing route, splitter line. Didn't have gear so did it on the bolts, it would be BETTER protected if you led it on pure gear.
Two questions:
1. Why was this thing ever bolted?
2. Why hasn't someone chopped the bolts?
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East : Spine Tingler (5.11d)
By: furrymurry When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It has become common to start this route in the dihedral to the right of the arete, essentially skipping the first two bolts (particularly by those doing it during the 24 hour comp). If you do this the rating is reduced to a few fun moves of 5.11-, but you do miss out on some neat movement down low on the arete.
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East : Filthy Sanchez (5.11c)
By: furrymurry When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic route on a beautiful arete, but not 5.11c/d. 5.11a at most, though that isn't meant to detract from the 4 stars I gave it.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : The Bridge Area Crags : South Bridge Area : Agent Orange (5.12a)
By: furrymurry When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't see how anyone rated this climb "PG13," it protects extremely well throughout. Beautiful line.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Cottonmouth - Venom (5.10b)
By: furrymurry When: Oct 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The linkup totals a little over 100 feet, you can just reach the ground if you rap with a 60m.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Ariana (5.12a)
By: furrymurry When: Aug 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We took double Aliens blue through red, a single set of Camalots #0.4 through #3, an extra #0.75, and a set of smaller wires. That turned out to be the perfect rack for us, all I would change is taking two #1 Camalots next time instead of just one.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.13a)
By: furrymurry When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing route! Don't know why you would want to mess with doubles though, a single rope is fine.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome : Blades of Steel (5.11)
By: furrymurry When: Jul 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Surprising that I almost decked, since it's so well protected.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: furrymurry When: Jul 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.9 seems like a bit of a stretch for the final pitch. I guess the first few moves are, but the rest of the pitch is 5.7, no more than 5.8. Beautiful stuff!
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome : Slime of the Century (5.11)
By: furrymurry When: Jul 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The cam placement (yellow alien size) is after the final bolt in the horizontal, flaring crack that is somewhat of a resting hold. It is not entirely necessary, but if you skip it you do get a little ways above that last bolt for the final crux.
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Location: AR : Sam's Throne and Surroundin... : Cave Creek : Involuntary Wall, Flat Fiel... : Stems and Seeds (5.9+)
By: furrymurry When: Jul 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: For gear take thin stuff, mostly stoppers.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : The Dihedral (5.6)
By: furrymurry When: Jul 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've never heard anyone call it the best 5.6 in the state. All the same, not a terrible climb, but the rest of the climbs on that face are much better.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : Leap Frog (5.10a)
By: furrymurry When: Jul 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Always felt like the crux was the wide part of the leftward leaning crack.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott : Brirthday Boy (5.6)
By: furrymurry When: Jul 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is neither great, nor clean, I'm not surprised it isn't a classic. Good climbing for about thirty feet, then it becomes a series of dirty ledges.
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