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Yours truly coming out the first roof of Yowsah, T...


Member Since: Jul 8, 2007
Last Visit: Jul 8, 2015
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 181 | Routes 12 | Areas 3 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 29 | Posts 23 | Stars 73 | Ratings 38
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Babies R' Us

5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 (1)

Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600'

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Chasm View Wall

Sep 22, 2014

Brain Stem

5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Rock Of Ages

Aug 25, 2014

Kahntian Ethics (FA)

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (3)

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side

Oct 17, 2013

Tuff Gong

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 40'

AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East

Oct 5, 2009

Spinnaker

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (10)

Sport, 1 pitch, 80'

WV : Seneca Rocks : South End

Oct 20, 2008

The Threat

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (5)

Sport, 1 pitch, 70'

WV : Seneca Rocks : The Cave

Oct 20, 2008

Predator

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a (6)

Sport, 1 pitch, 45'

WV : Seneca Rocks : The Cave

Oct 20, 2008

Afro Juan

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b (2)

Sport, 4 pitches, 400'

North America : Mexico : ... : Bronco Bowl

Jul 25, 2008

Totally Tammy

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a (63)

Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Rico Suave Buttress

Sep 4, 2007

Grit and Bear It

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (44)

Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Rico Suave Buttress

Sep 3, 2007

Pockets of Resistance

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a (49)

Sport, 1 pitch, 40'

WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Rico Suave Buttress

Sep 3, 2007

Yowsah

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (18)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

WV : The New River Gorge : ... : The Glory Hole

Sep 3, 2007

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

The Cave

WV : Seneca Rocks

Oct 20, 2008

Main Dam Bluffs

OK : Eufaula Lake

Jul 11, 2007

Eufaula Lake

OK

Jul 11, 2007

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Ben Collett pawing in the crux.

Ben Collett pawing in the crux.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Babies R' Us (5.12- PG13)

Sep 22, 2014

Yours truly coming out the first roof of Yowsah, T...

Yours truly coming out the first roof of Yowsah, The Hole, NRG.

WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Yowsah (5.12b)

Sep 3, 2007

Here's a photo of the dam bluffs and a couple of l...

Here's a photo of the dam bluffs and a couple of lines I've done on them.

OK : Eufaula Lake : Main Dam Bluffs

Jul 11, 2007

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Subterfuge (WI6 M7+)
By: MauryB When: Jan 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Well, Highlander, are you referring to the new 11c bolted variation to the first pitch of the Edge, or the 13b bolted variation to the final two pitches? Regardless, pretty sure we're all ok with both.

To clarify: the route was bolted on rappel and climbed on lead. Any other approach would have dictated an X-rated, onsight free solo. Thus it was done in the best style possible, short of this effort the route would not exist. It is a completely independent line on the opposite side of the featur... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Babies R' Us (5.12- PG13)
By: MauryB When: Nov 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: It was pretty exciting getting to that first bolt, would definitely have been nice to have the snow as a cheater/crash pad just in case!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: MauryB When: Sep 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Pink-pointing a trad route does not a send make, particularly when that is used to dictate an X-rated approach to future climbers.

Wonderful route. With the newly removed bolt off the ledge, it's a bit head's up the first time, but if you figure out the proper opposition/stem, getting to the safety of the first clip isn't terribly unreasonable. Big ups to Chris for giving us another BoCan classic.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Glass Menagerie (5.13a PG13)
By: MauryB When: Sep 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Sounds like you're being a thoughtful Samaritan, Derek. I for one really appreciate the stewardship. Everything you've suggested gets my thumbs up, particularly replacing the open book bolts. That yellow 'perma draw' was always kinda scary and it'd be nice to see it go/replaced.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Pitch Perfect (5.12+)
By: MauryB When: Sep 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Only TR'd to the final bolt, but 12+ seems like it could be a solid sandbag....


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Kahntian Ethics (5.12b)
By: MauryB When: Aug 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Also worth noting that it looks like the next 30 feet or so would go free with a considerable effort from some strong monkeys.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Glass Menagerie (5.13a PG13)
By: MauryB When: Aug 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: C Brown: agreed. Those bolts on the book pitch are definitely hurting and could use some retro action. I'll happily contribute to the steel fund.


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