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Member Since: Mar 14, 2012
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
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Fritz N.
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Total Points: 97
Last Year: 34
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Fritz N.

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Contributions


All 80 | Routes | Areas | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 17 | Posts 39 | Stars 1 | Ratings 7

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Durango : Pine River Trad : The Pope's Nose : Central Buttress (5.10 A0+)
By: Fritz N. When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: Good route and well-worth the investment of time. I'd do it again next year.

Hike: intrinsically worthwhile.

Approach: crossing via the downed tree resulted in some mandatory swamp-mucking and willow-whacking in June. We would've been better off hiking the trail to directly across from the boulderfield then fording the creek at knee-deep. This worked well on the descent.

P1: we scrambled to the base of the "chimney" and com... more >>


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Waterfall Wall : El Sueno (5.11b)
By: Fritz N. When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: After topping out El Sueno, would it be possible to access the walkoff for Fistful and head over to the sidewalk ledge for some extra pitches? Thanks; it's been a while since I was up there.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : 3AM Handy (5.11b)
By: Fritz N. When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: Fun, thought-provoking movement on good stone. A nice addition to the wall. Thanks for bolting this, guys!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Wild Flower (5.10a)
By: Fritz N. When: Apr 12, 2016

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Comments: P1: Clipping that bolt felt pretty heads-up first thing in the morning. There's gear at your feet on the ledge, but it's in a bad block. My next piece was a #0.4 five feet below the ledge. You could get a couple micros just below the ledge. The moves are 5.9.

P2: Intermittent jamming and liebacking.

P3: This is where I started enjoying the route. The flared start offers the best chicken wings this side of the Mason-Dixon Line. As for the squeeze, I'm 5'10a" and 145lbs, and I fit inside w... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Fritz N. When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments: Shoot, we were hoping to nab the first descent of the year.


Location: CO : Durango
By: Fritz N. When: Dec 20, 2015

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Comments: Japhy, check out Gorilla Crack, Telephone Booth, Double Barrel and the Bear at East A.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Gateway Vicinity aka The We... : Gateway : ... : Banana Hammock (5.11)
By: Fritz N. When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Stellar first pitch. I placed six #5s, an old #4, and a tight #6 (another #5, old or new, would've been better). The flared corner precludes knee jams and stacks, so be ready for some oldschool armbar thuggery.

No gear needed at the alcove belay. Head further up, further in to a bomber stance.

The VG on P2 is wholly unnecessary unless you enjoy listening to your follower suffer.

Since you rap the route, you could ditch all the big gear in the alcove before the squeeze.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Yucca Flower Tower
By: Fritz N. When: Oct 29, 2015

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Comments: Here are a few landmarks that would've made our approach to YFT more like the jolly stroll that it's supposed to be.

From the Crest/Luz trail sign at the south end of the gift shop:
. Pass a grey trail marker post on a switchback
. Pass another one next to a wilderness boundary
. Descend a set of stairs with a handrail
. Take a left at the signed La Luz junction
. Ignore the obvious block / tower summit with rap anchors
. After ~0.3 mi, find the overlook with the retaining wall / bench.
. From... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : Pine River Trad : Rolling Stones Wall : No Expectations (5.9+)
By: Fritz N. When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: A good time - thanks for putting this up, guys.

I had to break P5 into two due to drag, even with minimal gear and maximal slingage. That allowed for a straight shot up the wide hands corner all the way to the tree, no belay shifting required.

On the last pitch, the rope was a liability. We placed no gear, and it felt like low-5th.

R2 was a rope eater: high-friction pull and sharp edges. We had to re-climb, extend the original and then also set up an intermediate station

The other raps were ... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Boodalicious Baby (5.10+)
By: Fritz N. When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: Enjoyable route with fun movement and good gear. Plenty of great moments throughout, but the fourth pitch especially is sustained and beautiful.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Kissing Couple area : Kissing Couple : Long Dong Wall (aka Bell To... (5.11a)
By: Fritz N. When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: The route is on the south, narrow side of the tower in a large alcove that separates Kissing Couple from the other, shorter towers closer to the road. The boulder problem to access the alcove involves a chockstone in a bombay chimney slot and features a cairn/stepstool at the base.

One 70m works for the rap.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : Escape Artist (5.10a)
By: Fritz N. When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: We had no need for a BD #4 or a second #3. Triples of #0.4 and #0.5 were nice for the crux pitch.

The "other" exit gully (right of the standard) featured some chimney bouldering, bush-aiding and a clever hole to squeeze through, plus a couple moves of low-5th to get back to the rim proper.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : The Dragon's Tooth (5.8+)
By: Fritz N. When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: Enjoyable route. After rapping the Tooth, we took Casual to the rim. Especially fun climbing on the blocky arete just above and right of the walkoff gully chockstone/cave.

Rap anchor is in good condition as of 9/2/13.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mighty Mouse Wall : ... : Mouse of the Future (5.10)
By: Fritz N. When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: Very enjoyable route with several wild stemming moves and a thin, balancy finish.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Lighthouse Tower : Lonely Vigil (5.10)
By: Fritz N. When: Dec 9, 2012

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Comments: I also hopped into the squeeze chimney on the right side of P2 after clipping the old anchors in the stembox. Great size, felt much more secure than dinking with little gear on the left side. A bomber BD #.4 protected pulling out of the chimney. I'm 5'10", and the stemming at the end was kind of wild. Spandex tights are a plus for making every inch count, and for making your belayer lose the will to live.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Tiara Rado : Dirty Martini (5.10a/b)
By: Fritz N. When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: Be sure to tag the summit of the mini-tower by chimneying all the way up. Great "toprope heroes" moment.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Checkerboard Wall : The Maiden Voyage aka The R... (5.9-)
By: Fritz N. When: Oct 7, 2012

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Comments: There's a newly-loosened block at the start of P3 (splitter wide crack). The bottom of it forms a #1-2 horizontal that used to be good for anchor building. You can't tell that it's loose until you make a couple moves up the pitch.



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