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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : s00krEEm (5.13b)
By: Fred Knapp When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, it has rests and it's mostly a boulder problem, but the climbing throughout is very good and fun. An excellent route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Fred Knapp When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, 448 pages does change the light and fast theory if you haul the book. We're offering a free eBook if you pre-purchase the print guide. You can print out just the pages you need for the multi-pitch outings, plus you'll have the info right away. Oh, and 10% of all pre-orders goes to ACE.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Fred Knapp When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A sample pdf of the upcoming Eldorado Canyon: A Climbing Guide by Steve Levin is available for download at www.sharpendbooks.com. The 448 page book is due in late September and will retail for $39.95. Enjoy.
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Location: AL : Steele : Photo
By: Fred Knapp When: Mar 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The yellow tat out right protects Hot Steele (5.10)
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Location: AL : Steele
By: Fred Knapp When: Mar 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, thanks for working to open this area. It was the hotbed of Southern climbing in the early to mid-80s with folks coming from Louisiana, Mississippi and Florida, in addition to the nearer locations. I can't wait to revisit. I'll make a trip just to climb there.
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Location: UT
By: Fred Knapp When: Mar 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: INDIAN CREEK: A Climbing Guide, 2nd edition. The new Creek book is at the printer and will be available late April. In the meantime, if you're in a rush, Sharp End Publishing (www.sharpendbooks.com) is offering an ebook version, as well as a special: If you pre-purchase the print book, you'll receive a free ebook.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek
By: Fred Knapp When: Mar 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: New Creek ebook! Sharp End just released an ebook version of the upcoming Indian Creek: A Climbing Guide, 2nd edition. Since the book won't be available until late April, we are offering a pre-purchase special (Pre-purchase the new print book and get a free ebook). Check it out at www.sharpendbooks.com
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Location: CO : Lyons
By: Fred Knapp When: Dec 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bernard Gillett's new ROCK CLIMBING ST. VRAIN CANYONS is now available. It's a 424 page comprehensive guide. You'll want to have this one if you're bored with the other canyons.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon
By: Fred Knapp When: Dec 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new book is here! We should have it up on the website any day (www.sharpendbooks.com). Neptune's and Boulder Mountaineering currently have it in stock.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Smoking Pickle (5.12a)
By: Fred Knapp When: May 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A brilliant route. One of the best at Shelf!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : West World : Germ Free Boulder : Germ Free Adolescence (V5)
By: Fred Knapp When: May 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the crux was after sticking the lip when getting established on the slab.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Amputee Love (5.12)
By: Fred Knapp When: May 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amputee Love is a toprope near the route described and is much harder on oh-so-slippery stone. It does not start on Spoof. The bolted sport route described here is Free Speech 5.12a.
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Location: CO : Golden
By: Fred Knapp When: Mar 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Clear Creek books are here! They arrived today. They should be in the local mountain shops today or tomorrow. -Fred Knapp, Sharp End Publishing.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon
By: Fred Knapp When: Feb 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can check out sample pages of the book at www.sharpendbooks.com. The books are here and in local shops!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek
By: Fred Knapp When: Nov 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: NEED PHOTOS FOR SECOND EDITION OF INDIAN CREEK GUIDE
We're in the process of a major update to the Indian Creek guidebook and would like to replace some of the photos. We're in need of high resolution digital photographs. Also, if you have new route information or updates, it would also be appreciated. You can send low res versions or contact me at fred@sharpendbooks.com. Thanks, Fred Knapp (Manager, Sharp End Publishing).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Box : Aunt Jennifer's Tigers (5.10d)
By: Fred Knapp When: Sep 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, this might not be the best route. I drilled this on the lead to get to where we could bolt its neighbor. It was mostly the beautiful lichen that attracted us to this wall.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Box : Fact of a Door Frame (5.11b/c R)
By: Fred Knapp When: Sep 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, I'm a fan of Adrienne Rich. I only remember placing a single knifeblade about mid-route. These were the days of hand-drilling, so we looked for any method to spare the drill.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Hot if You're Not (5.11c)
By: Fred Knapp When: Feb 12, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The original top anchors (over the top) have been replaced by modern anchors beneath the lip. Clearly, this allows the rope to run better, but we bolted this in the 80s and we weren't so clued in. We didn't bolt the lower bit because it was an established boulder problem that had been climbed many times sans protection. The name stems from a co-worker at Neptune's who kept complaining that "All these sport climbers think they're hot when they're not."
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road
By: Fred Knapp When: Jan 18, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: As far as books go, I do believe all are out of print. A new fully comprehensive guide from Sharp End Publishing should be out by mid-March. It will cover Sand Gulch, The Gallery, Bank, Dark Side, Gem, Vault, Cactus, Spiney, Gym, North End and Heaven.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Nomad's Cave : Pizza Dick aka Mother Natu... (5.12c)
By: Fred Knapp When: Nov 19, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with the original 12b rating I gave it.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Energy Before Ecstasy (5.10a/b)
By: Fred Knapp When: Nov 9, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was wrong. War in the bank is the funky slender west-facing prow right of this route. This is Energy.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Instinct (5.12c)
By: Fred Knapp When: Oct 13, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jim, The added bolt when it below the bolt that protects the lower crux. It is designed to help if you blow the clip. I'm a cheapscate when it comes to bolting, at least by today's standards.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Paleolithic Tool Traditions (5.12a)
By: Fred Knapp When: Oct 6, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A decent route, but my partner and I both felt 11c.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Red Dawn (5.11d)
By: Fred Knapp When: Sep 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shannon Wade and I bolted and climbed this from the top down and we were unsure how our battery pack would hold out between this and LeFrimeur. We did run out of battery and thus the runout, but as you pointed out, the climbing isn't bad.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Scratch and Claw (5.12c)
By: Fred Knapp When: Sep 6, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: My apologies for calling this route and Cosmic Thing by other names in my guide. Kurt told me he didn't name them and I could call them whatever I wanted. I went with a General theme.
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