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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Skinner Mountain
By: Fred Keith When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah - thanks for the cairns.
On a "business" trip back to the Front Range, I scammed a very nice Friday with an old CO-Bro (you, Z) and we had a GREAT day on Wally World.
It was in between the brutal monsoon days you guys have been experiencing.
Frosties at the 'snort apres for sure.
I miss CO....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : First Buttress : Flash Dihedral (Knapp Versi... (5.7)
By: Fred Keith When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I came back out to Boulder a few weeks ago and did this route with an old bud after work.
Faced with Californihoards on the Dome etc it looked like an interesting option.
I kind of liked the route, relatively clean, and was amazed in all the years I'd lived there I had not done.
I agree with Phil that if you scheme to stay more left more on the upper part (slabs) as I did, it seemed a bit harder than 5.6.
I have to say I was a bit bummed before I read this post as that step across gave me a... more >>
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Location: NH : Elephant's Head : the trunk (5.5)
By: Fred Keith When: Feb 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are some bolts at the top that are good enough to rap off. I think this would be a good place for IMCS or some of the local guide community to put 2 sets of summit-bolts because of use. One set at the top of the Trunk route and one set at the top of the cheek. This way the second set would be good for TRs and a rap to packs.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Bitty Buttress (5.8+)
By: Fred Keith When: Sep 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Never climbed it with the bolts...or when there were .75 Tech Friends or black Aliens.
It was a great route to take dates on.
Sure miss that baby-angle at the crux, though.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East Slab (5.6)
By: Fred Keith When: Jul 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guys, guys.
At (old) 5.5 difficulty, this route is tit.
It just takes some pro-placing talent that the current no-mind color-by-numbers lead climbers can't get.
The easiest line one can take up this part of the face certainly goes 5.5. There are many variations. A direct start w/o beta can seem 5.8.
I am constantly amazed on how orginal standards are being dumbed-down. If you guys think this shit is hard, try going to the Needles in SD, Devil's Lake or come east to Cathedral Ledge.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock : Cheops (5.10d)
By: Fred Keith When: Mar 23, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: As per Schaefer's comments...
I still can't f-ing believe that those guys did this thing after-work in the dark.
After the first number of subsequent bolts were placed, I took a winger reaching for the dish and can testify to the consequences.
A classically challenging slab.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East Slab (5.6)
By: Fred Keith When: May 4, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A true Friday after-work classic.
Hints:
At the very top of the crack, a #4 Rock. Jam up high and then reach up way high and to the right (1 o'clock) and there is sloper mantle to a jug....next to the jug is good #5 placement.
That way a direct line is taken and the slab sews-up.
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