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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress : Gun Club (5.12c)
By: Fred Gomez When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is about a V5/6 slab boulder problem, but may feel impossible if you're unfamiliar with the technique of running your feet up on smears while your fingers are supporting nearly 100% of your weight on small edges. I know this sounds like bad technique, but it's the easiest way to do the sequence.
After the boulder problem you're looking at a long 12a to the chains. The bolts seem a bit more runout than your typical NRG route. Hard for the grade for sure.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress : Photo
By: Fred Gomez When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Coal Train is the new 14a that branches off of Stabat Mater. Thirty meters of perfect overhanging white stone takes you through numerous cruxes as the pump intensifies. This route is destined to become the benchmark 14a at the NRG.
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Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : East Side Boulders : Photo
By: Fred Gomez When: Feb 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Big Bully V6
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Honeymooners' Ladders : Libertine (5.12d)
By: Fred Gomez When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks. Good to know that someone finds my descriptions useful. I'll be sure to write up a description for Oblivion once I get around to trying the route.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Pulling on Porcelain (5.13a)
By: Fred Gomez When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route and the 12c (Maximum Leader) to the right are very similar. Maximum Leader climbs the true line of weakness and it has more memorable moves. If you don't mind a good sandbagging, Maximum Leader is definitely the route to do. Both these routes are steeper and more dynamic than your average endless wall routes.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake
By: Fred Gomez When: Nov 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A friend of mine went and climbed Indian Summer several weeks ago, so i would imagine you're good to go on both Pirate's Cove and Whippoorwill. The lake was quite low last I checked.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Buttress Area : ... : My Stinking Brain (5.13a)
By: Fred Gomez When: Nov 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If anyone knows the story behind the name of this route I'd love to hear it.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : Third Buttress : Shake And Not Stir (5.12d)
By: Fred Gomez When: Nov 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like you know what you are talking about. Good enough for me. Name changed.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : The Cirque : Trebuchet (5.14b)
By: Fred Gomez When: Oct 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tall guy climbing Trebuchet:
Short guy climbing Trebuchet:
Route description by the first ascensionist:
mikesironcladbeta.blogspot.com/2010/05/trebuchet.html
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Location: WV : New River Gorge
By: Fred Gomez When: Sep 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are hardly any routes that require a 70m rope at the NRG.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : The Brilliant Pebble : One for the Gipper (5.13c)
By: Fred Gomez When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A description doesn't really do this route justice. There are a couple photos of the Gipper at the link below. Photos taken by Matt De Camara.
www.cruxn.com/new-week/
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : Super Mario Boulder : Leap of Faith (5.13c)
By: Fred Gomez When: Jun 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The four move boulder problem at the third bolt is in the V7 range, but may feel harder until you get the body positions figured out. A small frame can actually be advantageous for this crux, but a shallow knee bar can be utilized by tall climbers to reduce the difficulty of the third move of the sequence. Cool air pours out of the corridor to the right of the route making it a decent route choice on hot summer days.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress : Grace Note (5.12b)
By: Fred Gomez When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sharp holds, reachy moves, and awkward in spots. Its not all bad though. Overall the pitch is decent, and probably worth doing if your skin is in good order. The route gets shade in the afternoon. Stick clip the first.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : First Buttress : Creature (5.12c)
By: Fred Gomez When: Apr 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Believe it! But yeah, you definitely wouldn't want to dyno if you were short. The alternative sequence moves right from the fourth bolt, still hard, but doable for shorter folks. This is really the only place where the beta varies depending on the height of the climber.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress : Loud Noise (5.12b)
By: Fred Gomez When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts are kind of rusty on this thing so you might want to avoid the route if this concerns you. I recommend lowering off of the anchors of the 11c to inspect and brush holds on Loud Noise. The route hardly ever gets climbed so it should need a good brushing by the time you get to it.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : Genocide Cave : Green Envy (5.12c)
By: Fred Gomez When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for your additional comments on the route. I probably should have mentioned that there is some nasty fall potential on this one. I would also recommend stick clipping the second bolt. I lowered off of disturbance on to Green Envy, hung draws, brushed holds and pre clipped the first two before pulling the rope and leading it. This is probably the preferred method if you want your experience to be a little less stressful.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : Area 51 : The Project (5.13c)
By: Fred Gomez When: Apr 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The fifth bolt is a dogging bolt. It would be foolish to try to clip it on the go. It is wise to wear knee pads or thick pants for the sharp double knee bar rest. If there was one 13c that was "must do" at the NRG, this is probably it. Climbs like a gym route with steep slopers and dynamic moves.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : First Buttress : Creature (5.12c)
By: Fred Gomez When: Mar 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We gave this route a beta test for 5'1" woman to 6'0" man. All the moves basically went the same way, and it didn't seem like a huge disadvantage to be shorter. Non-height dependent routes are a precious commodity at the NRG.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge
By: Fred Gomez When: Mar 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You should consider checking for your lost shoes at waterstone outdoor store if you haven't already done so. Seems to me that would be the obvious place to drop off lost gear.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : First Buttress : Toymaker (5.13a)
By: Fred Gomez When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Often times a stream of water runs down the wall through the second bolt. Don't let this deter you from trying the route. Your rope will stay dry and you don't need to use any of the wet foot holds.
I avoided getting on this route because I thought the third bolt might have been missing. It is there, look hard and you'll see it camouflaged in the roof.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Pocket Route (5.13a)
By: Fred Gomez When: Nov 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great Endless Wall entry level 13a. Its solid 13a, but not nearly as sandbagged as the nearby alternatives. All the hand holds are skin friendly.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : Meadow River : First Buttress : Corner Pocket (5.13a)
By: Fred Gomez When: Nov 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really quality route minus the two no hands resting ledges. Things really get interesting as you race through the final crimpy face section in to the crux dihedral. The moves in the dihedral are way better than the dihedral moves on "Boomerang" or "Eye of Mordor." A tricky knee bar greatly reduces the difficulty of the dihedral. This is my new pick for best 5.13 on the wall.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : The Cirque : Proper Soul (5.14a)
By: Fred Gomez When: Oct 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no shortage of accessible beta for Proper Soul. Videos of both Brent Perkins and Chris Sharma's ascents are available on vimeo and youtube respectively.
One important note about the climb is that the final 10 feet can get very wet during the rainy season. During the month of March 2010 the top was seeping the entire time. An ascent was basically impossible during this time.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Buttress Area : ... : Welcome to Conditioning (5.12d)
By: Fred Gomez When: Oct 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing seems really hard for 12d. Its probably more like 13a unless you have the perfect body size for the two cruxes. Prepare to get shut down on the first crux if you're short. What you see is what you get. There are literally no intermediates for your hands and very limited footholds.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge
By: Fred Gomez When: Oct 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you plan to climb at the Endless Wall the Chestnut Creek Campground is a good option. It is within a mile or two of the Endless Wall parking lots. Clean facilities with showers. Between $7-10 per night per person depending on time of year.
Rogers is right next to Kaymoor. I think he is charging around 7 dollars a night + an extra dollar or two for dogs. This is the place to go if you like more of the Miguel's atmosphere. Lots of climbers to hang out with. Porta potties are really disg... more >>
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