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Member Since: Oct 23, 2008
Last Visit: Apr 12, 2014
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Point Rank: # 708
Total Points: 892
Last Year: 50
Last 30 Days: 0
34 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 499 | Routes 78 | Areas 2 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 62 | Posts 13 | Stars 319 | Ratings 21
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area : Lavender Days (5.13a)
By: ---- When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: I just revisited the route yesterday and had a chance to investigate the rest. The following is detailed beta on how to get the no-hands rest:

Just before the first bolt on the arete, place your right hip toward the wall, lay both legs on the ledge, and engage two heel-toe cams in an undercling feature. Your right knee should automatically slot into a knee bar. Hands can go on a handle bar jug, or you can let go entirely and hang fully on your legs (Similar to the rest at the top of Apollo R... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area : The Rabbit Almost Died (5.12a)
By: ---- When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: Take great care moving past the first bolt to the first gear placement. I will confirm the 5.10+ R rating for this section. Sure there are some other long runouts on the route, but realistically this is the only place where a fall would result in broken bones.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress : Concertina (5.12a)
By: ---- When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: Thanks. It's not hard to write a good description when the route is as inspiring as this one!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : Area 51 : Made in The Shade (5.12d)
By: ---- When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: You know, I unsuccessfully attempted to delete this description a few months ago. Oh well, I changed a few things in it today. Hopefully it's a little less biased.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City
By: ---- When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Does this wall catch any day time shade during the middle of the summer? If so what time? I'd like to climb here during early August, but not in full sun. Thanks.



Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Orange Juice (5.12c)
By: ---- When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Does this route catch any day time shade during the middle of the summer? If so what time? I'd like to try to do it during early August, but I don't want to tangle with it in full sun. Thanks.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress : Chorus Line (5.12b/c)
By: ---- When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: This is surely one of the best of the grade at the NRG. There is one move that is decidely harder than the rest of the moves. At 6' even this fully dynamic move required the majority of my span length. I was just barely able to keep my left foot planted. I spent two days trying this move and had about a 5% success rate on the move. Then I tweaked my positioning a bit and I was able to hit the move easily. I haven't had to put this much work in on a 5.12b for years, but I enjoyed every minut... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : First Buttress : The Tantrum (5.12d)
By: ---- When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: This route would be a good one to try to flash. The moves are strange and you may need to put your body in some unfamiliar positions, but none of the moves are actually all that hard.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : First Buttress : The Haulage (5.12c)
By: ---- When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: This route is seriously fun and just a couple good moves away from being four stars. The holds are all skin friendly and the crux is short so it makes for the sort of route you can try many times in a day.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Lower Meadow : Greatest Show Area : Lavender Days (5.13a)
By: ---- When: May 21, 2013

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Comments: I wish I could provide better beta, but it has been a while since I did the route. I seem to recall wrapping my leg(s) around a ledge with some degree of knee bar, kind of like you described. It was kind of a lay down beached whale type of maneuver. It was basically a no hands rest, but could be sort of taxing on your core I suppose. Tell you what, I'll drop 10%.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress : Gun Club (5.12c)
By: ---- When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: The crux is about a V5/6 slab boulder problem, but may feel impossible if you're unfamiliar with the technique of running your feet up on smears while your fingers are supporting nearly 100% of your weight on small edges. I know this sounds like bad technique, but it's the easiest way to do the sequence.

After the boulder problem you're looking at a long 12a to the chains. The bolts seem a bit more runout than your typical NRG route. Hard for the grade for sure.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : East Side Boulders : Photo
By: ---- When: Feb 15, 2013

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Comments: Big Bully V6


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area : Libertine (5.12d)
By: ---- When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: Thanks. Good to know that someone finds my descriptions useful. I'll be sure to write up a description for Oblivion once I get around to trying the route.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Hellbound Area : Pulling on Porcelain (5.13a)
By: ---- When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: This route and the 12c (Maximum Leader) to the right are very similar. Maximum Leader climbs the true line of weakness and it has more memorable moves. If you don't mind a good sandbagging, Maximum Leader is definitely the route to do. Both these routes are steeper and more dynamic than your average endless wall routes.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv...
By: ---- When: Nov 8, 2012

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Comments: A friend of mine went and climbed Indian Summer several weeks ago, so i would imagine you're good to go on both Pirate's Cove and Whippoorwill. The lake was quite low last I checked.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Fern Buttress : Monolith Wall : My Stinking Brain (5.13a)
By: ---- When: Nov 6, 2012

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Comments: If anyone knows the story behind the name of this route I'd love to hear it.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Upper Meadow : Third Buttress : Shake And Not Stir (5.12d)
By: ---- When: Nov 2, 2012

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Comments: Sounds like you know what you are talking about. Good enough for me. Name changed.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : The Cirque : Trebuchet (5.14b)
By: ---- When: Oct 19, 2012

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Comments: Tall guy climbing Trebuchet:


Short guy climbing Trebuchet:


Route description by the first ascensionist:
mikesironcladbeta.blogspot.com...


Location: WV : The New River Gorge
By: ---- When: Sep 19, 2012

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Comments: There are hardly any routes that require a 70m rope at the NRG.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : South Side Crags : The Brilliant Pebble : One for the Gipper (5.13c)
By: ---- When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: A description doesn't really do this route justice. There are a couple photos of the Gipper at the link below. Photos taken by Matt De Camara.

cruxn.com/new-week/


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Super Mario Boulder : Leap of Faith (5.13c)
By: ---- When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: The four move boulder problem at the third bolt is in the V7 range, but may feel harder until you get the body positions figured out. A small frame can actually be advantageous for this crux, but a shallow knee bar can be utilized by tall climbers to reduce the difficulty of the third move of the sequence. Cool air pours out of the corridor to the right of the route making it a decent route choice on hot summer days.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress : Grace Note (5.12b)
By: ---- When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: Sharp holds, reachy moves, and awkward in spots. Its not all bad though. Overall the pitch is decent, and probably worth doing if your skin is in good order. The route gets shade in the afternoon. Stick clip the first.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Upper Meadow : First Buttress : Creature (5.12c)
By: ---- When: Apr 11, 2012

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Comments: Believe it! But yeah, you definitely wouldn't want to dyno if you were short. The alternative sequence moves right from the fourth bolt, still hard, but doable for shorter folks. This is really the only place where the beta varies depending on the height of the climber.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress : Loud Noise (5.12b)
By: ---- When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: The bolts are kind of rusty on this thing so you might want to avoid the route if this concerns you. I recommend lowering off of the anchors of the 11c to inspect and brush holds on Loud Noise. The route hardly ever gets climbed so it should need a good brushing by the time you get to it.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Genocide Cave : Green Envy (5.12c)
By: ---- When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Thanks for your additional comments on the route. I probably should have mentioned that there is some nasty fall potential on this one. I would also recommend stick clipping the second bolt. I lowered off of disturbance on to Green Envy, hung draws, brushed holds and pre clipped the first two before pulling the rope and leading it. This is probably the preferred method if you want your experience to be a little less stressful.


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