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Member Since: Aug 14, 2010
Last Visit: Aug 18, 2014
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Point Rank: # 17,817
Total Points: 5
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 5 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 5 | Posts | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Peregrine (5.7)
By: Franz Buzawa When: Oct 16, 2010

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Comments: Excellent climb--well worth it. I just checked the old Swain and Williams guides and they both rate it 5.8 PG. No question, 5.8 or perhaps even 5.8+ climbing given the length of the crux and the pucker factor due to the exposure. No way this is 5.7.

The old Williams guide gives the best description, but I would avoid the book first pitch which has thin to no protection at all and climb the 1st pitch of Hawk to the ledge and move right to set up a belay at a tree just below the right most (and d... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : No Money Down (Left) : Easy Terms (5.8)
By: Franz Buzawa When: Oct 4, 2010

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Comments: This route sees a lot of traffic due to the popularity of the area. As a result the holds are getting a bit worn down and slick. The placement of the 2nd bolt makes for a potential ground fall if you blow the crux moves. A heady lead if you're not solid at the grade. Fun and challenging no matter how many times you've done it. 2stars, 8+.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Idiot's Deluxe (5.10d)
By: Franz Buzawa When: Oct 4, 2010

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Comments: I'd give this route a solid 10c rating. I found the upper portion of the headwall a bit confusing because there seemed to be 2, perhaps even 3, distinct approaches to the final moves due to all of the caulked up holds. Nevertheless, a fantastic climb and certainly one of the best in the area.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : The Little People (5.10a)
By: Franz Buzawa When: Aug 14, 2010

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Comments: 2 stars is about right. With lots of exposure and serious fall potential through the upper section (after you move off of the initial arete), this one's not for the faint of heart or for the novice 10a leader.

I'd also like to see the anchors moved from the present location--which is incredibly awkward to get to and doesn't add significant value to the climb to the face just below. That ledge would provide a good, safe position to clip the anchors from and rope drag would be about the same if t... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Black Slabbath (5.9+)
By: Franz Buzawa When: Aug 14, 2010

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Comments: While this route does follow a line the runs below the upper section of Hot Head it should not be confused with the lower section of Hot Head (about 15 ft. to the left) which is also a great 5.8+/5.9.

The name Black Slabbath is also a bit misleading because the initial moves require pulling through a short overhanging section. In fact, I would say the crux is pulling through the overhang to the slab above (between the 2nd & 3rd bolts).