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Member Since: Nov 19, 2009
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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FrankPS
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Point Rank: # 2,636
Total Points: 273
Last Year: 155
Last 30 Days: 32
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 3666 | Routes | Areas | Photos 45 | Page Improvements | Comments 48 | Posts 3519 | Stars 36 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress
By: FrankPS When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: ^^^^^^^^^^^^

Do you think the broken holds were related to climbing sandstone right after raining? Sandstone is known for that, and most climbers will refrain from climbing sandstone for 24-48 hours after rain.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Medlicott Dome, Center : Piss Easy (aka West Face of... (5.8)
By: FrankPS When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: Not sure why the roof is referred to as a "bulge." (also called a bulge in the guidebook) I think of a bulge as a hump, something smooth and rounded. Either way, the two pitches were fun.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 08 - Bishop Pass and Evolut... : Mt. Haeckel : Northwest Ridge (4th)
By: FrankPS When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: ^^^^

From the Wallace - Haeckel col to the summit of Haeckel, the route is the South Ridge. South Ridge is mostly Class 2, with a couple of short Class 3 sections.


Location: Hank Caylor : Hanky World : Photo
By: FrankPS When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: How did this hooligan get on your profile? :)


Location: CA : High Sierra : 08 - Bishop Pass and Evolut... : Mt. Haeckel
By: FrankPS When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: My non-climbing friend and I climbed the South Ridge (Class 3) from Sailor Lake last summer. A fair amount of talus on the approach to Wallace-Haeckel col, then a fun scramble to the summit. A couple of Class 3 moves, depending on which way you go, but mostly class 2. We took a rope and light rack, but never needed it. A long day, though.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Pump Floyd (5.10b/c)
By: FrankPS When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: The description of this climb is "Check it out"?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: FrankPS When: Jul 1, 2016

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Comments: "Showing off"? Don't know why people are making those comments about the photo. He posted a photo, with no egotistical comments, and the wankers are weighing in.

Looks like fun, Jason.


Location: WanderRedFox : Investing in Adventure : Photo
By: FrankPS When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: Holy cow - look at all the ropes! Must be toprope heaven. I'm sure it was still fun, though.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Tatooine (5.11a) : Photo
By: FrankPS When: Jun 7, 2016

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Comments: Up rope!


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Moro Rock (SEKI) : Modern Guilt (5.12) : Photo
By: FrankPS When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: Nice pack.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock
By: FrankPS When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: Thanks, Colin.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock
By: FrankPS When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Eee-ther pronunciation is correct. Or is it, aye-ther? You could just call it Lily Rock, which is another name for it.

(I've heard people insist that it's pronounced Tah-keets, but don't think it matters)


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Spring Route (5.8)
By: FrankPS When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: The description of this climb is not correct; the topo map is. After the bolt, go right around the arete, up past two more bolts, then to the anchor. The crux is getting over the small roof between the second and third bolts.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - North Face : The Bong (5.4)
By: FrankPS When: Feb 26, 2016

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Comments: I'm surprised there isn't a rap anchor on top. The downclimb is quite exposed.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Park Ridge Rock : Red Dawn (5.8)
By: FrankPS When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: Quite stout for an 8.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: FrankPS When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: Hiro, that's because Central Coast Climbing was a guide service that no longer operates.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Dawn Wall Free (5.14c)
By: FrankPS When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, 14+ is grade-inflation. And I thought it might get dark out before I finished.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (b) North Face : Northeast Face West (5.7)
By: FrankPS When: Jul 4, 2015

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Comments: Good route. I liked Chris D's writeup and that helped convince me to do this route, as well as seeing that beautiful corner on the first pitch. Most of the belay stances were decent. A couple of semi-hanging belays, but that was about it.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 09 - Palisades and Surround... : Mt. Winchell : East Arete (3rd)
By: FrankPS When: Jul 3, 2015

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Comments: This was a long day from Sam Mack Meadow. We aren't fast, and it took us about five hours each way. If you're lucky, or time it correctly, most of your approach will be on snow. Great views.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles
By: FrankPS When: Jun 28, 2015

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Comments: ^^^

Two hours to Ponderosa from Bakersfield


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Jamcrack Wall : The Greatest Commandment, M... (5.11)
By: FrankPS When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the courteous reply Aaron.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Middle Man (5.10a PG13)
By: FrankPS When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: If you start this route by the first bolt, it is about a 110'. We toproped it off the Fat Man anchor, belaying from the start of Fat Man, with a 60m rope.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Photo
By: FrankPS When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: I hope she is wearing sunscreen.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Nuts and Bolts (5.7)
By: FrankPS When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: I took the 5.7 friction version, but started from the bolted anchor to the right of the chimney. Downclimbed back to the bolted anchor, as I wasn't "prepared" to lead the rest of the route. The one time I climbed the chimney, I looked up at that bolt, which is close to 40 feet away. Didn't see any opportunities for pro, so I rapped from the bolted anchor.

Good to know there is pro ten feet above the chimney. Still, I think the bolt is approximately 40 feet above the chimney belay.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : Shadow Rock : Shadow (5.8- R)
By: FrankPS When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: About five or six years ago, my partner fell before clipping the first bolt from about 15-18 feet up. Didn't have a cam in the slot before the bolt. Hit the ledge on the way down and broke his ankle. Although he had successfully led Shadow before, he peeled off this time.

I've also seen a guy slide down on lead, keep his footing when hitting the ledge and jump to the ground, sticking the landing! It was scary, but nicely done. No injury.

I like to pre-clip the first bolt on a lower from Desper... more >>


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