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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Too Many Tantrums (5.7)
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Nov 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just went back and did this route for the second time. Some things to mention.
1 I started as per "Splitting Hares" in the corner and went left over the bush,on pockets and cracks, to the cleft 5.8.
2 My partner led the second pitch and belayed on the ledge 75' 5.7
3 I led a third pitch up to the roof and right to the anchor. 5.7+
4 We cleaned a shoe box sized rock and a party on the route after us broke off a few small holds...wear a helmet!
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Location: New Red Rock guidebook - AV...
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Sep 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just got my copy home. I really like it!!! Awesome photos from some even more impressive angles! Laid out in true traditional guide book style. Photo layovers are excellent...though some lines are slightly off. Has some excellent reading as well as the bounty of beta, for the rest/tent bound days. If you got the $36 I recommend it.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Mossy Ledges Area : Soylent Green Jeans (5.9+)
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Jun 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an excellent route! Start at the base of the upper large pine tree and follow the corner past a small pine, over a roof and belay atop the corner under a large ceiling(55m+/-). Walk east about 25' and scramble down to a tree with slings and rings. If you use this rap I suggest you bring a sling to replace the one there.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Bird Cage (5.10a)
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: You are not the first to do this. i have soloed down and up it to retrieve dropped gear.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Black Wall (aka Happy Acres... : Unknown 5.8+ (5.8+)
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Mar 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this in April of '04 thinking it was "Spontaneous Enjoyment"
I have no idea who put in the bolts and/or who climbed it first. If anyone knows pass it on and I will update the information. We did the exact same decent as described in ATJ. I wish Todd's bolts were on top when we did it! I think you can use them now to belay from. I would also recommend a 70m rope.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Black Wall (aka Happy Acres... : All that, Jazz (5.8)
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Mar 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent second pitch you have here!! I have figured a few things out about the area and will post up when I get all the info,photos and climbing in.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Black Wall (aka Happy Acres... : All that, Jazz (5.8)
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Mar 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have climbed the first pitch you describe and then walked 15' left on the ledge and went up along a crack system almost to the top. I built an anchor when I ran out of rope and we scrambled to the top from there. I thought/think we were on "Spontainous Enjoyment". If I remember correctly I passed a bolt or two on the steep black varnish section but used a lot of gear and made a trad anchor on the top. There is also anchor bolts w/ slings 25' west of this route atop a clean looking corner. Anyo... more >>
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Feb 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I Love what you all did with this! Thank you very much!!!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Topless Twins (5.9) : Photo
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Oct 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thats mmohaupt on lead. We had a good day and the wall all to ourselves. Everyone thought it was too hot...not! The temps were fine and the rock was cool. I think I shot this photo.
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Location: Press Release by CCH
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Aug 31, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just returned all six of the new ones I bought recently to the retailer. All in the date range and one which had the dimple. The store mgr told me there was only problems with the dimpled ones. They took them all back anyway...100% satisfaction overrides no returns on climbing gear.
Interesting. This is a subtle but important modification to the official CPSC recall on their website which only cited cams made between 11/04 and 12/05 WITH the dimple. Unfortunately, this subt... more >>
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Location: New Alien failure?
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Aug 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you guys for all the insight. I happen to have one blue alien with the dimple and all of them are stamped 0105 to 0705. The Blue one is marked 0305 as are two more in my set. They were all purchased very recently at an REI. I had been assured by an associate that REI had returned all in the recall dates. I will try returning them tomorrow and check their inventory for dates and more dimples. Thanks again.
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Location: New Alien failure?
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Aug 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The aliens that are for sale at REI have no stamp on the swage. Is this really a concern? Is the swage the weakest point of the cam? When was the recall? All the aliens I have are stamped early '05 or newer. I would like to know exactly what CCH has to say.
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Location: New Alien failure?
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Aug 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really like Aliens and am concerned. Is this why REI has been selling them off at just under $40 ? Isn't this the second time in recent years there has been a concern with CCH? I would really like to hear/read more on this. I have some and they all seem bomber. Is there any difference if it doesn't have "ALIEN" stitched in the stem sheath?
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Location: NV : Rainbow Canyon : sexual basalt (5.10)
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Aug 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route passes the roof by staying in the tight corner. Part of the climb is just in the shade.
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Location: NV : Rainbow Canyon : micro corner (5.9+) : Photo
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Aug 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Look at the thin seam right of the "micro corner" and thier are rusted bolt anchors on the face to the left.
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Location: NV : Rainbow Canyon
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Aug 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The drive on Kane Springs Rd. is about 40mi. of graded dirt road. We just drove it 08/20/06. It is a beautiful grassy valley. I would recommend this route as long as it isn't wet. It's the high desert so that's rare. I can't wait to go back so contact me if you are interested.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Inverted Layback (5.9) : Photo
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Aug 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is a blue Alien under the roof. It is right at your chest during the lieback. I screamed after this move.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Inverted Layback (5.9)
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Aug 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux moves are protected by a fixed pin backed up by a green #0.75 Camalot at your feet. Then there is a small crack on the face under the roof that takes a blue Alien. Look carefully at the photos. Sorry for the poor quality. I did this onsight with at least a dozen people watching. One of the spectators sent me the pics. I think the face moves avoiding the offwidth below are actually the crux. You will scrape the left side of you face doing the liback moves. My glasses still bear the... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : C11H17NO3 (5.7 R)
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Mar 19, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: When we did this route, we mistakenly followed the corner to its top. We continued up and to the left and slung a large bush. One long rappel, with two ropes, down a steep face to another bush. This rappel leads to a horn with slings and rings. From there, two ropes and a little down climbing put us just up gully from the start of "Cat in the Hat". The route was on good rock and protected well. I found some moves hard and scary for its original 5.5 rating.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Next Century (5.10 R)
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Mar 12, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: An excelent route. The first pitch is better than it appears. Start on the left side of the chimney, move up a few feet and then left into the crack system. The rest of P1 is obvious. Alone it is a good pitch and a 60m will get you down. The p2 is what this route is all about. I thought it was a face climb!? Two 60m ropes with one rappel down the west side to decend.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Pauligk Pillar (5.7+)
By: Francis Baker (fran) When: Mar 10, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I should have given this a star when I put it in. I want to return and do the tight dihedral on the right as the second pitch. It looked good and I am not sure if it has been done. If anyone knows please fill me in. I think you might be able to get to the anchor on top of Y2K's P2. This was a good morning out. A good long 1st pitch if u r waiting for Y2K to open up.
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