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Member Since: Feb 9, 2002
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 4,973
Total Points: 80
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 282 | Routes 1 | Areas 1 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 55 | Posts 224 | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Owen Spalding (5.4) : Photo
By: flynn When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: Don't have a photo for you, just a story. We managed to do this rappel in two shorter rappels with a 60 meter. You just have to look carefully for the middle anchor. This was in July 2004. If you were hard-core enough, you might be able to downclimb this, but I don't trust my memory enough to recommend that.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Third World Zone (5.4 R)
By: flynn When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: Beware of poison ivy lurking in the bushes on the approach!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Lost Arrow Spire : Lost Arrow (5.7 R)
By: flynn When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: Re the second pitch: go pretty much straight left from the belay stance. This is juggy; you'd have to try really hard to fall off it. Ease left around the corner onto a flatiron-like face, but with the lovely crack mentioned earlier. Runout at the top is casual. Summit is five stars on a scale of three; bring some good munch material and hang out for the view.


Location: NH : Rumney : Venus Wall : The Wimpy -Gilman Ridge (5.3)
By: flynn When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: Looks steep for the grade; real climbing, then, instead of high-angle stumbling. Cool!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Dome : Main Wall : Hobbit Book (5.7)
By: flynn When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: The approach hike is just pure fun. At one point, you're crossing a meadow absolutely festooned with colorful little flowers. It could be in Rivendell.

Third pitch reachy? Um, I'm 5' 4" and didn't have any problems.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Acid Rock : Sandinista (5.11b PG13)
By: flynn When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, Slim, that water-runnel-stemming thing is called Divine Ms. M. Dave Kozak had a hand in its installation; I don't remember anything else about its history. 9- seems about right, and I remember that it was fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: flynn When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: If you want to avoid the 3rd pitch pin-'protected' regular line, step out right onto the steep face. Unprotected, but un-sustained 5.7. Reach up; what you need will be there.

From the next ledge, you can avoid an awful lot of loose rock by heading left about 10 feet; there used to be a little tiny tree here. Follow the obvious fist crack up a few feet, then traverse right across the unlikely-looking but actually 5.5 face. This puts you on a nice arete. As usual for aretes, t... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: flynn When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: Watched Gary Neptune walk up the first pitch in Kronhoffer's more years ago than I'll admit, chatting all the way. He threw an ancient-even-then hex in the crack and kept going.

I got up to the committing move when it was my turn to lead, wimped out and down-climbed. Since then, I've just led up the slab to the left of the usual corner, not placing pro until I get to the ledge formed by the top of that flake (right below the crux). That way, my second can have the fun of climbing the real star... more >>


Location: CO : Bill Forrest Passes Away
By: flynn When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: I worked at Forrest with Ken, as a newbie climber and pretty total dork. That was my first-ever gig in mountaineering retail. I remember coming in to work one morning. I ran into Ken, and his eyes were pretty much out on stalks. He said, "Go back to the office. Jim Bridwell is in there!" I did and he was. Wow. Bill knew frickin' everybody!

I learned so much working there. Even as a novice, I had a pretty good idea who Bill was. Working for him was an education and a privilege.

Hope he is hap... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : The Barb (5.10-)
By: flynn When: Dec 27, 2012

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Comments: Had to laugh at the advice to avoid down-climbing the Barb itself. My first time up there, I had an old description suggesting going up quite a ways before traversing. After reaching the top of the Barb, I figured out this was wrong. Downclimbed the whole (easy but unprotected) thing to a point about 4 feet above the belay. Found The Holds, leading right, onto the North Ridge. Duh.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: flynn When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: I've always considered The Bulge a 5.7 for 5.9 climbers - on both ends of the rope.

And communication is always such a joy! On the second pitch in particular, everybody in the canyon can hear you. Everybody, that is, except your partner, who'll only be hearing muffled, unintelligible bellowing. People on the Wind Tower in particular can hear you just fine. I've relayed messages to folks on the Bulge a few times, but I don't think that should be depended upon.

It's best just to plan for the si... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Joy and Tribulation (5.9 R)
By: flynn When: Jan 27, 2010

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Comments: I'd second comments that think the third pitch is 5.9. It felt a lot like Conads to me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: flynn When: Jan 11, 2010

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Comments: Re the fourth pitch: when in doubt, go up and left. When you can't see around a corner, reach, and your hand will land on a 5.6 hold. If it looks harder than 5.6, don't go there. If it feels harder than 5.6, you're off route. Remember up and left.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress
By: flynn When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: The trail to Sundance, and the climbers' descent route (can't call it a trail) in that godawful gully, were the projects for the Access Fund's Adopt-A-Crag Day this October. Fifty-some logs and eighty-some rock steps went in, along with some long-needed "barbering" of the brush in the gully. Should be a lot better.

If you're a first-time visitor to Sundance, be advised that there's now a sign to direct you in lieu of the old cairn. It's actually been there for several years now.

Have fun!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Magical Chrome Plated Semi-... (5.7)
By: flynn When: Sep 19, 2008

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Comments: An obvious and enjoyable variation steps left around the wild-but-easy corner at the first belay. Pick your way delicately up and left into the Le Chaim crack, and romp up that to that luxurious belay/walkoff ledge.


Location: CO : An Evening With Layton Kor
By: flynn When: Aug 30, 2008

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Comments: Doesn't matter what you thought you were doing this night. If you climb, you must hear one of The Masters. Period. This event **will** sell out immediately.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Stripe Rock : Dykes of Gastonia (5.7)
By: flynn When: Aug 4, 2008

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Comments: To start, proceed up and right on a ramp of sorts until you peek around a corner and see a creaky old bolt. Back down a few feet and establish an anchor with small-hand size springy things. My partner, a whiz at runouts, led the grainy first pitch, traversing up and right from the second well-aged bolt. About 170 feet and two or three placements higher, he belayed in the dike itself, backing up a horn with some gear. The second pitch follows the dike for some borderline-silly fun after the hair ... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn... : Mystic and the Mulchers (5.8-)
By: flynn When: Dec 7, 2007

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Comments: Amen to the caution about the vegetation: this climb can look like a high-angle garden, but the climbing is actually much nicer than you expect.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice
By: flynn When: Nov 30, 2007

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Comments: We drove up Boulder Canyon 11/28. Lots of ice in the creek, but absolutely none in the climbing areas, not even dribbles on the rock. Does anybody know if the aqueducts got patched? Again?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : Supremacy Crack (5.11b)
By: flynn When: Aug 2, 2007

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Comments: I was pleased to TR this thing, more years ago than I'll admit, with only one fall down low. The swing was memorable and fun! My one-legged partner, on the other hand, did it free and clean. I still don't have an excuse!


Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: flynn When: May 15, 2007

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Comments: Best wishes to the fallen climber and his partner for quick and complete recoveries from their different injuries.
Thanks for the clarification, Steve.
And now, from Captain Obvious: Same song, 93rd verse. Mark the middle of your rope; know how to use your belay device; and pay attention. The only piece of "safety equipment" we have is the one between our ears. It only works when it's turned on and tuned by experience.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: flynn When: Apr 19, 2007

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Comments: We didn't think the descent was particularly horrible. No fun, but not too long and not life threatening. My partner led the last pitch, and we simul-climbed for a while to get him to the top. He was stuffed butt-first into a bathtub, giving me a hip belay (it's okay, we do that all the time). Behind him was a mountain goat billy! He hung around watching us for half an hour or so, but never approached us to mooch or threaten. Very cool.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : North Dome : Crest Jewel (and Crest Jewe... (5.10d R)
By: flynn When: Apr 5, 2007

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Comments: We hiked in from Porcupine Creek trailhead on Tioga Pass Road, five fast, easy miles. Left some water under a tree and thrashed down the manzanita gully on the right (as you look down) side of the Dome. An hour and a half later, we found the start. I don't recommend doing it this way; the climb may be set up for double-rope rappels to avoid the epic bushwhacking.
The climb itself was fun, a Topo on steroids if you will (you Splatte rats know what I'm talking about). The friction chara... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Rock : Hand Over Hand (5.7)
By: flynn When: Mar 2, 2007

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Comments: You could do this route in one pitch, but why miss that deliciously exposed belay at the start of the traverse? Also, try the wa-a-y steep handcrack that's almost directly above your head on this belay. A couple of joyous, "air-out-your-knickers" stems and jams get you to some welcome jugs, then you can ramble to the top on easy stuff.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Tulgey Wood (5.10a)
By: flynn When: Feb 12, 2007

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Comments: I thought the third pitch was the crux of the climb: lots and lots of moves, few rests and deep, elusive, difficult jams for small hands. Keep your psych up even though it's "only" 5.9.


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