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Member Since: Feb 9, 2002
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact flynn

Point Rank: # 5,315
Total Points: 86
Last Year: 8
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has flynn been climbing?


All 345 | Routes 1 | Areas 1 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 61 | Posts 281 | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Devil's Spiral

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c (8)

Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Devil's Thumb

Nov 2, 2002

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Devil's Thumb

CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks

Aug 17, 2005

Contributed Comments


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Grand Canyon National Park : Mount Hayden : South Face (5.8)
By: flynn When: Jun 6, 2015

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Comments: We spotted Mt. Hayden from the South Rim's South Kaibab trail. Hiking to it from there was truly casual in spite of a little third class scrambling. Since we didn't know there was a route on the thing, we meandered around to the west side. But from the spot where we turned west, it looked completely reasonable to go east. It has to be easier and more pleasant than the Point Imperial thrash.

Location: CO : Photo
By: flynn When: May 29, 2015

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Comments: You're so right, Jon. There's Denver, then there's Colorado - at least the mountainous parts of it. What a blessing!

Location: Climbing Gear : The Perfect Backpack Rope C...
By: flynn When: May 24, 2015

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Comments: Been doing it this way for over 30 years. It works. Perfectly. Every time.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Ho Hum (5.4)
By: flynn When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: Most of the TR anchors on this cliff are out of my reach: 5'4". My husband, who's 5'10" with a positive ape index, can just reach some of them. Nothing to be done about it, but consider yourself forewarned if you're vertically impaired.

Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Superior Crack (5.8+)
By: flynn When: Apr 11, 2015

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Comments: Both Superior and Quetico were led in the 70's and 80's without any cams or large gear besides #10 and #11 hexes.

Location: General Climbing : Happy Womens Day to MP! : Photo
By: flynn When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: Impressive ink. "18-year-old" what?? Er, whom??

Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Owen Spalding (5.4) : Photo
By: flynn When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: Don't have a photo for you, just a story. We managed to do this rappel in two shorter rappels with a 60 meter. You just have to look carefully for the middle anchor. This was in July 2004. If you were hard-core enough, you might be able to downclimb this, but I don't trust my memory enough to recommend that.

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Third World Zone (5.4 R)
By: flynn When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: Beware of poison ivy lurking in the bushes on the approach!

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Lost Arrow Spire : Lost Arrow (5.7 R)
By: flynn When: Feb 15, 2014

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Comments: Re the second pitch: go pretty much straight left from the belay stance. This is juggy; you'd have to try really hard to fall off it. Ease left around the corner onto a flatiron-like face, but with the lovely crack mentioned earlier. Runout at the top is casual. Summit is five stars on a scale of three; bring some good munch material and hang out for the view.

Location: NH : *Rumney : Venus Wall : The Wimpy -Gilman Ridge (5.3)
By: flynn When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: Looks steep for the grade; real climbing, then, instead of high-angle stumbling. Cool!

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Dome : Main Wall : Hobbit Book (5.7)
By: flynn When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: The approach hike is just pure fun. At one point, you're crossing a meadow absolutely festooned with colorful little flowers. It could be in Rivendell.

Third pitch reachy? Um, I'm 5' 4" and didn't have any problems.

Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Acid Rock : Sandinista (5.11b PG13)
By: flynn When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, Slim, that water-runnel-stemming thing is called Divine Ms. M. Dave Kozak had a hand in its installation; I don't remember anything else about its history. 9- seems about right, and I remember that it was fun.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: flynn When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: If you want to avoid the 3rd pitch pin-'protected' regular line, step out right onto the steep face. Unprotected, but un-sustained 5.7. Reach up; what you need will be there.

From the next ledge, you can avoid an awful lot of loose rock by heading left about 10 feet; there used to be a little tiny tree here. Follow the obvious fist crack up a few feet, then traverse right across the unlikely-looking but actually 5.5 face. This puts you on a nice arete. As usual for aretes, t... more >>

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8+)
By: flynn When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: Watched Gary Neptune walk up the first pitch in Kronhoffer's more years ago than I'll admit, chatting all the way. He threw an ancient-even-then hex in the crack and kept going.

I got up to the committing move when it was my turn to lead, wimped out and down-climbed. Since then, I've just led up the slab to the left of the usual corner, not placing pro until I get to the ledge formed by the top of that flake (right below the crux). That way, my second can have the fun of climbing the real star... more >>

Location: CO : Bill Forrest Passes Away
By: flynn When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: I worked at Forrest with Ken, as a newbie climber and pretty total dork. That was my first-ever gig in mountaineering retail. I remember coming in to work one morning. I ran into Ken, and his eyes were pretty much out on stalks. He said, "Go back to the office. Jim Bridwell is in there!" I did and he was. Wow. Bill knew frickin' everybody!

I learned so much working there. Even as a novice, I had a pretty good idea who Bill was. Working for him was an education and a privilege.

Hope he is hap... more >>

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : The Barb (5.10-)
By: flynn When: Dec 27, 2012

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Comments: Had to laugh at the advice to avoid down-climbing the Barb itself. My first time up there, I had an old description suggesting going up quite a ways before traversing. After reaching the top of the Barb, I figured out this was wrong. Downclimbed the whole (easy but unprotected) thing to a point about 4 feet above the belay. Found The Holds, leading right, onto the North Ridge. Duh.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: flynn When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: I've always considered The Bulge a 5.7 for 5.9 climbers - on both ends of the rope.

And communication is always such a joy! On the second pitch in particular, everybody in the canyon can hear you. Everybody, that is, except your partner, who'll only be hearing muffled, unintelligible bellowing. People on the Wind Tower in particular can hear you just fine. I've relayed messages to folks on the Bulge a few times, but I don't think that should be depended upon.

It's best just to plan for the si... more >>

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Joy and Tribulation (5.9 R)
By: flynn When: Jan 27, 2010

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Comments: I'd second comments that think the third pitch is 5.9. It felt a lot like Conads to me.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: flynn When: Jan 11, 2010

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Comments: Re the fourth pitch: when in doubt, go up and left. When you can't see around a corner, reach, and your hand will land on a 5.6 hold. If it looks harder than 5.6, don't go there. If it feels harder than 5.6, you're off route. Remember up and left.

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress
By: flynn When: Nov 18, 2009

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Comments: The trail to Sundance, and the climbers' descent route (can't call it a trail) in that godawful gully, were the projects for the Access Fund's Adopt-A-Crag Day this October. Fifty-some logs and eighty-some rock steps went in, along with some long-needed "barbering" of the brush in the gully. Should be a lot better.

If you're a first-time visitor to Sundance, be advised that there's now a sign to direct you in lieu of the old cairn. It's actually been there for several years now.

Have fun!

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Magical Chrome Plated Semi-... (5.7)
By: flynn When: Sep 19, 2008

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Comments: An obvious and enjoyable variation steps left around the wild-but-easy corner at the first belay. Pick your way delicately up and left into the Le Chaim crack, and romp up that to that luxurious belay/walkoff ledge.

Location: CO : An Evening With Layton Kor
By: flynn When: Aug 30, 2008

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Comments: Doesn't matter what you thought you were doing this night. If you climb, you must hear one of The Masters. Period. This event **will** sell out immediately.

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Stripe Rock : Dykes of Gastonia (5.7)
By: flynn When: Aug 4, 2008

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Comments: To start, proceed up and right on a ramp of sorts until you peek around a corner and see a creaky old bolt. Back down a few feet and establish an anchor with small-hand size springy things. My partner, a whiz at runouts, led the grainy first pitch, traversing up and right from the second well-aged bolt. About 170 feet and two or three placements higher, he belayed in the dike itself, backing up a horn with some gear. The second pitch follows the dike for some borderline-silly fun after the hair ... more >>

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