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Galen's Crack.  Tuolumne.  Hell yes!


Member Since: Sep 20, 2012
Last Visit: Oct 3, 2013
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Fluoride been climbing?










Contributions


All 45 | Routes | Areas | Photos 16 | Page Improvments | Comments 18 | Posts 6 | Stars 1 | Ratings 4

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Theoretical Boulder : Episcopalian Toothpick (5.10c)
By: Fluoride When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: A fun route. Crack that takes gear fairly well for it's grade. Definitely a crux on the crack which will be obvious, and the bolt/face moves to the top are pretty committing and hard. Definitely worth doing.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Jellystone : Palm Pilot (5.10c/d)
By: Fluoride When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: 5.10d. There are no rests on this route. Between bolt 2 and 3 involves serious stemming then getting in position for bolt 4 is another challenge.

STAY RIGHT after that. Can't move directly up cause we know. We did it last spring and a key foothold gaining the roof broke off. Now you need to stay right to gain it. There are still moves there to get it and the moves below are still the crux moves but the roof is harder now.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : Fresh Squeezed (5.10a)
By: Fluoride When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: "Bolts on summit are not exactly that great"

Not great to do for top roping the route either. Will be a rope shredder. We know.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : Fresh Squeezed (5.10a)
By: Fluoride When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: Sooze's comments are dead on.

Great route. Need gear down before the first bolt. Second to third bolt is challenging

Crux is probably bolt 1 to 2 after the roof.

A pumpy, edgy route and a lot of fun. Great route on a cold day. Faces south and gets sun on that black rock and protected from winds by Reggie Dome.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arrowhead Arete
By: Fluoride When: Nov 6, 2012

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Comments: Best done in the spring when the approach is more wet. Lots of 4th class sections that in the spring is far easier than in the fall when everything if dirty and covered in leaves. Much less slippery in the spring months.

The most "alpine" climb in the Valley. The topout isn't the end of it, the ridgeline to get back to the raps is heady. Really heady.

Takes a lot of route finding and commitment by both leader and follower.

Probably one of the best routes I've done in the Valley. Very com... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Galen's Crack : Galen's Crack (5.10c)
By: Fluoride When: Nov 6, 2012

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Comments: Did it on TR but the starting moves to about 15 feet up are the crux. After that lots of nice in cuts in the crack and surprisingly good feet. One for my lead tick list next season.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : Fresh Squeezed (5.10a)
By: Fluoride When: Nov 6, 2012

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Comments: Great route for a cold day in the winter months. Gets a lot of sun.

First part is pure fun. Moving into the second part is the crux. All well done and a good route.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Hound Rock : Tossed Green (5.10a)
By: Fluoride When: Nov 6, 2012

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Comments: One of my favorite 10a's in Josh. Well worth it. The climb breaks into 3 sections with decent rests after the first two.

I think it must be geared perfectly towards my fingers and hands cause I don't find it nearly as stiff as many other JT 10a's. I have long thin fingers and I think that's probably a huge plus for me. Anyone with big mitts would have a harder time.

Eats gear. Great crack. Nothing but love.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... : Field and Stream (5.10c)
By: Fluoride When: Nov 6, 2012

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Comments: HARD start, glad that fixed nut was in there before the first bolt. 10c moves. After that good 10a face moves bolted to a great finger crack. Then pull the lip to an arete bolted on the right. The move to gain that is probably 10c again. Heady move. From there to the topout is just fun.

Bob has a brilliant eye for lines and this is yet another brilliant line he's found in a place that should have been discovered long ago being as close to Popular Mechanics as it is. Thoughtfully bolted, ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... : Ace of Spades (5.9)
By: Fluoride When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: This route never gets old. So classic. Climb the first part of Popular Mechanics and when the crux breaks, head left up the double crack system to a great anchor.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... : Popular Mechanics (5.9)
By: Fluoride When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: This route never gets old. One of the best in the park. Combine it with doing Ace of Spades doing these two classics on Dover makes for an amazing half day.

Sartin/Gaines just put up a new FA called Field and Stream to the right of this. Look for the nut sticking out below a bolt that's hard up enough to make it a far harder start that the usual 10c.

The rest of the route is genius. Hard, but genius. Bolted with some gear. Well worth it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... : ... : Photo
By: Fluoride When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: SUPER fun route. Hard entrance moves and glad they left a fixed small nut before the bolt move. Otherwise it might never get done. Great 5.10a moves after that with some awkward sections to gain the headwall. A heady lead. A heady second in some areas. But Bob yet again found a gem amongst all that's been done up there and it was well worth it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Sand Flats : The Rhino's Horn
By: Fluoride When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: FYI all of my photos are from the west side 5.9 route up the Horn.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Sand Flats : The Rhino's Horn : Regular Route (5.9+ R)
By: Fluoride When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: First pitch is dirty and full of some scary kitty litter rock after the first 50 feet. Eventually it goes to an established anchor but with rope drag you'll want to do an initial belay after the worst of the kitty litter leads to a decent tree belay.

From there a short pitch atop the slab to an established anchor.

From there a 60M won't get you you to the top. Even if it did, rope drag would be heinous. Need to do an intermediate belay at the base of the crack that leads to the top of the t... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Sand Flats : Elvis's Hammer
By: Fluoride When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: Park at the pullout before the yellow/black crossing area. Near there pick up a gully trail to it's right and follow it til you get to a slabby section that takes you directly to the notch to Elvis' Hammer. Very fast and light.

Beware of cattle on the road along the drive back down.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Working Class Hero (5.9)
By: Fluoride When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: About as fun as a route can get. Just perfect. Almost all fingers with perfect pro.

Day Canyon is so beautiful and without any crowds. Great place to do a route like this...Kyle Copeland splitter in a perfect place.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Day Canyon : Day Canyon Cragging Routes : Christine's Way Buff Sabb (5.9+)
By: Fluoride When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: Much easier to find the faint 4 wheel drive to the north end of the canyon and walk up that. Then take a much less sloping trail to the base of this. Cairns will lead the way on that side of the canyon. Don't go up when you see bootleg like we did and grovel through sloping loose stuff.

AMAZING route. Glorious fingers, hands. Anchor is good. No one is ever back in Day Canyon and it's gorgeous and a great place to have to yourself with IC quality crack and no crowds.

And yes, a single 60M ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Harlequin Dome : Hoodwink (5.10a)
By: Fluoride When: Sep 26, 2012

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Comments:
The traverse to the sick roof
The traverse to the sick roof



The first pitch is nothing like the rest of the route. I love the first pitch so much. But it's nothing like what's to come.

Everything after is slick and dependent on good footwork.

Linked the 5.9/5.7 together and it was great, less rope drag and we ended up in a better belay stance for the traverse to roof.

The roof, I botched badly. I need to get solid on V3's to get over that thing solid.

The 5.10a off the final pitch was joyous to me cause that's the style of climbin... more >>