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Member Since: Jun 3, 2008
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Floyd Hayes

Point Rank: # 481
Total Points: 1,472
Last Year: 90
Last 30 Days: 49
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Floyd Hayes been climbing?










Contributions


All 899 | Routes 76 | Areas 4 | Photos 83 | Page Improvements | Comments 237 | Posts | Stars 288 | Ratings 211
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Morro Bay Harbor : Morro Rock : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Where is the helicopter extraction point on the topo?


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Macondo Cliff
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: I climbed here with two partners in November 2013. We only had time to lead two routes and we top-roped a third. On each route we knocked off several baseball-to-canteloupe sized rocks that had to be dodged by the two of us below, so it's a potentially dangerous place to climb.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Macondo Cliff : Weasel Buttress Center (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: Two of us led it onsight and a third climber top-roped it in November 2013. We thought it felt like 5.7.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Macondo Cliff : Unnamed Crack Route (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: Two of us top-roped this in November 2013. We thought the right-facing dihedral, which was fun to climb, was 5.8. The rotten face above was harder, feeling like 5.9. My partner pulled off a few baseball-to-softball sized rocks off the rotten face.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Macondo Cliff : Macondo (5.10a)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: Two of us led this and a third climber top-roped it in November 2013. Before reaching the first bolt, I pulled off a cantaloupe-sized rock that fell 15 feet and grazed the arm of a partner while he was shooting video.
Rock Climbing Photo: Screen shot from video by Andrew Taylor of Floyd H...
Screen shot from video by Andrew Taylor of Floyd Hayes accidentally pulling off a large rock on Macondo.



Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Saviour Heart (5.9 X)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 10, 2016

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Comments: Having climbed the crack to the left several times, I realized it was a distinct line sharing only a few holds with Saviour Heart. The crack was first climbed in the early 1960s (see Jerry Dodrill's comment above), so I've added a description of the route as Forrester's Crack.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Satellite Rocks : ... : Hailstone Crack (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: I considered leading it onsight and I'm glad I didn't. Top-roping it was pretty tough--leading it would be much tougher. Even on a top-rope I thought it was harder than leading Hailstone Arete, Doppelganger and even Coroner.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Satellite Rocks : ... : Doc's Holiday (5.7+)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: One of my all-time least favorite trad leads. The first two-thirds of the climb is a bit spooky on less-than-solid blocks, then the climbing improves with solid protection. There are two old pitons, although I saw and clipped only one (my partner spotted the second).


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Initiation Rite (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: Based on feedback from a few other climbers I've bumped the rating up from 5.5 to 5.6.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the posting the photo. I think you've plotted the route correctly.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for posting the photo. The angle is a bit odd, distorting the features somewhat, but I think you've got the route correctly plotted.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for posting the photo!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for posting the photo. Here's your photo with the route in red that I always take.
Rock Climbing Photo: Edited photo of Right Corner
Edited photo of Right Corner



Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: I start the climb farther left, diagonal up and right along the big diagonal cracks in the middle of the climb, and finish farther left, up the left side of the summit pinnacle. Here's your photo with the red line which I climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Edited photo of Shattered Slab.
Edited photo of Shattered Slab.



Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for posting this.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for posting the photo!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for posting the photo!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: Regarding the cruxes, I thought there were two short 5.8 sections on pitch 5 and one short 5.8 section at the start of pitch 7, all solid and very well-protected. Fabulous climb! It was easy avoiding loose rock.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: Here is a photo showing six options for the final headwall pitch. Option A or B must be the Head Crack pitch. We climbed option C, which seemed to fit the descriptions of other climbers who recommended climbing a steep, right-facing dihedral, but the move over the overhang was strenuous, feeling more like 5.9 than 5.7. The cracks to the right were lower angle and appeared easier, but we weren't sure if they ended on a ledge. Option F looked like it w... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Far aka Let's Climb Naked (5.8 PG13)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: I've changed it again to "Far aka Let's Climb Naked." I once met Ken Stanton on a trail and he said he had an old topo that he made for Far Side climbs, but I haven't seen it (yet).


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Boy Scout Rocks : Main Area : Explorer Scout (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 25, 2015

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Comments: There are a few "routes" on this face, easier to the left and harder to the right.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Boy Scout Rocks : Main Area : Eagle Scout (5.7+)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 25, 2015

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Comments: Harder than I expected for 5.7.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : Overhang (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: The loose flake at the crux is now gone, probably pulled off by a climber. It's now a longer reach to the crack and harder to lead. Before it was 5.8/5.9, now it's more solid 5.9, but harder if you're short (I'm 5'10").


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : Bolt Route (5.10b/c)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: The bolt held me during a short fall several years ago, but your warning is certainly appropriate--it's an old bolt. You can also get in a small nut several feet below and right of the bolt if you're climbing up the right side (visible in the photo), but it's not a great placement and may not hold a fall. The diagonal crack about 8' below and right of the bolt has solid protection (visible in the photo), but a fall onto it from the crux would probably be painful.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Angwin : Bell Canyon
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: Oh sheesh, I'm very sorry to hear that happened to you. I'm pretty sure the property has been owned by St. Helena Hospital for decades and water had been taken from the stream for decades, too, but the trails have always been popular for hiking and biking, and open to the public. The last few years the hospital invested a lot of money into upgrading the water pumps and pipes. I knew barriers had been set up but I thought they were temporary while construction was going on during weekdays. People... more >>


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