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Member Since: Jun 3, 2008
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Floyd Hayes

Point Rank: # 475
Total Points: 1,515
Last Year: 110
Last 30 Days: 33
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Floyd Hayes been climbing?










Contributions


All 926 | Routes 77 | Areas 5 | Photos 85 | Page Improvements | Comments 245 | Posts | Stars 296 | Ratings 218
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : 5.8 (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Perhaps it's the face climb left of Old Tradition or a direct start on the face below the overhang of Old Tradition?


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Forrester's Crack (5.7)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Actually the thin crack at the top can take at least two sizes of small cams that fit very well.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Tiger Tower : South Gully (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: While approaching Wolf's Head in the dark we mistakenly climbed this gully rather than the easier gully on the right. I decided to post a description of the route so other climbers will have a better idea of what to avoid or what to expect if this gully is chosen.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Sonoma Coast State Park : Goat Rock : Sunset Boulders
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: CHALK BAG FOUND: If you left behind a chalk bag on August 20, 2016, please send me a description of it and, if accurate, I will be happy to return it to you.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Sonoma Coast State Park : Goat Rock : Sunset Boulders
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: You will need to free solo or lead easy class 5 (5.4-5.6) to set up a top-rope on the best climbs at Ram Rock. Clipping one notorious bolt (above Sunset Slab) with a carabiner will cross load it on a ledge (I suggest girth hitching it with a sling). Slings and quick draws are all you need to set up top-rope anchors.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : South Buttress (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: If there is a class 3 way of getting to the main cracks, my partner and I didn't find it. From a big ledge at what appeared to be the base of the climb, we climbed the right crack (5.5 with rap rings at the top) of a short wall (40') to a big ledge where the main cracks begin about 15' to the right. We then climbed two pitches (80' and 170') to the base of K-Crack. Above K-Crack it is class 3 to t... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Composure (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: It's much shorter than 180', more like 120'.


Location: UT : Echo Canyon : Roadside Crag
By: Floyd Hayes When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: Kudos to whoever established these routes. It was a quick and fun stop while driving home to California after climbing in Wyoming.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Ivory Coast (5.10d)
By: Floyd Hayes When: Jun 3, 2016

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Comments: I climbed it with friends back in December 2013. There were 8 protection bolts, plus the anchor. The last two bolts were farther right than I wanted; my left arm got really tired while clipping them! We thought it was easier than 5.10d--although we finished on the crack (apparently the 5.10a way), which we thought was the way the route was supposed to go (we didn't even consider climbing right of the crack).
Rock Climbing Photo: Floyd Hayes near the top of Ivory Coast on 20 Dece...
Floyd Hayes near the top of Ivory Coast on 20 December 2013. Photo from a video by Andrew Taylor.



Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Macondo Cliff
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: I climbed here with two partners in November 2013. We only had time to lead two routes and we top-roped a third. On each route we knocked off several baseball-to-canteloupe sized rocks that had to be dodged by the two of us below, so it's a potentially dangerous place to climb.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Macondo Cliff : Weasel Buttress Center (5.8)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: Two of us led it onsight and a third climber top-roped it in November 2013. We thought it felt like 5.7.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Macondo Cliff : Unnamed Crack Route (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: Two of us top-roped this in November 2013. We thought the right-facing dihedral, which was fun to climb, was 5.8. The rotten face above was harder, feeling like 5.9. My partner pulled off a few baseball-to-softball sized rocks off the rotten face.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Macondo Cliff : Macondo (5.10a)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: Two of us led this and a third climber top-roped it in November 2013. Before reaching the first bolt, I pulled off a cantaloupe-sized rock that fell 15 feet and grazed the arm of a partner, Andrew Taylor, while he was shooting video.
Rock Climbing Photo: Screen shot from video by Andrew Taylor of Floyd H...
Screen shot from video by Andrew Taylor of Floyd Hayes accidentally pulling off a large rock on Macondo.



Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Saviour Heart (5.9 X)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 10, 2016

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Comments: Having climbed the crack to the left several times, I realized it was a distinct line sharing only a few holds with Saviour Heart. The crack was first climbed in the early 1960s (see Jerry Dodrill's comment above), so I've added a description of the route as Forrester's Crack.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Satellite Rocks : ... : Hailstone Crack (5.9)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: I considered leading it onsight and I'm glad I didn't. Top-roping it was pretty tough--leading it would be much tougher. Even on a top-rope I thought it was harder than leading Hailstone Arete, Doppelganger and even Coroner.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Satellite Rocks : ... : Doc's Holiday (5.7+)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: One of my all-time least favorite trad leads. The first two-thirds of the climb is a bit spooky on less-than-solid blocks, then the climbing improves with solid protection. There are two old pitons, although I saw and clipped only one (my partner spotted the second).


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : The Far Side : Initiation Rite (5.6)
By: Floyd Hayes When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: Based on feedback from a few other climbers I've bumped the rating up from 5.5 to 5.6.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the posting the photo. I think you've plotted the route correctly.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for posting the photo. The angle is a bit odd, distorting the features somewhat, but I think you've got the route correctly plotted.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for posting the photo!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for posting the photo. Here's your photo with the route in red that I always take.
Rock Climbing Photo: Edited photo of Right Corner
Edited photo of Right Corner



Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: I start the climb farther left, diagonal up and right along the big diagonal cracks in the middle of the climb, and finish farther left, up the left side of the summit pinnacle. Here's your photo with the red line which I climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Edited photo of Shattered Slab.
Edited photo of Shattered Slab.



Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for posting this.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for posting the photo!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Silverado Mine : ... : Photo
By: Floyd Hayes When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for posting the photo!


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