Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : T2 (5.10d R)
By: FC John When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm glad that Erickson concluded that the start of this is considerably more difficult than the given 10d rating after the boulder washed away.
I thought the moves off of the ramp and past the pin were mid 11 with bad fall potential if you blow the moves.
The pin can be stick clipped from the ramp to protect the opening moves.
One final note, Ivan's gear beta is down right ridiculous. It's going to do nothing to keep you from decking or getting injured. At best it will prevent your broken... more >>
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Photo
By: FC John When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice picture.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Run Like Hell (5.10) : Photo
By: FC John When: Aug 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're Hawt...
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Photo
By: FC John When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot, Dusty!
|
Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : The Monkey Skull : Skull and Bones (5.10c)
By: FC John When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was on this route for the second time in 4 days today.
There appears to be some exfoliated flakes that have come off of the crux of this pitch. Blasting straight up the bolt line was *wicked* hard at 11/12ish. While a bit contrived, the route can be held at the grade by climbing into the dihedral for a short bit, but you risk a face full of Poison Ivy. Which is worth noting....the Poison Ivy is extremely lush this year due to all of the rain we've been having.
~John
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crimpfest Wall : Season Opener (5.11c)
By: FC John When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route. The first crux, bulge, mantle move was fairly straight forward and the route had a few mid 11 cruxes up high on the roof. Its fun sustained climbing all the way until the top! Do this route!
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Scratchy Face (5.10d)
By: FC John When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Based on the 10a rating in Tod's guidebook, we thought this was the biggest sandbag in the history of climbing. Good to see that the consensus on MP.com calls this route a bit harder. Thought the slabbly headwall on this pitch was more difficult than the 11s on Crimpfest. I would call pulling the roof solid at the grade for 10a
|
Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Cosmic Thing (5.12b)
By: FC John When: Dec 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 2 star route at best. The rap anchors are about 6 feet too high on this route.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Pigs In Space (5.10+) : Photo
By: FC John When: Aug 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't remember this....
|
Location: Stefanie Van Wychen : Climbing Pics : Photo
By: FC John When: Aug 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do you have a permit for those things?
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Fat City Crack (5.10c)
By: FC John When: Jul 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm with folks above, I thought that the .10 finger crack at the start of P2 was more sustained, difficult and nerve racking than any of moves getting up to and pulling the roof. A outstanding outing never the less. The finger crack eats up nuts and Aliens in the pin scars.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Photo
By: FC John When: May 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome Pic.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Yellow Brick Road (5.10b)
By: FC John When: Apr 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was fantastic.
I almost got sandbagged into leaving all of the gear at the 2nd set of anchors and just climbing on draws. After the first two gear pitches. A set of 14 draws, stoppers and small TCUs should get you through the upper pitches, which were AWESOME! Do this route now.
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: FC John When: Apr 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Holy Smokes! This climb delivers a little bit of something for everyone! Leave the #4 camalot at home, you don't need it.
The chimney pitches were just the price of admission for the unbelievable upper pitches.
Do not underestimate the descent.... We did car to car in 12 hours and I'm confident that we spent 3 hours of that on the descent.
~Team Gold Bond
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Diffraction (5.10a/b)
By: FC John When: Nov 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not as spicy as others have said. Found the route quite protectable. Easy climbing for the first 20 ft up the slab to 15 ft of fun 5.10- to 5.9 climbing to the base of Meta.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: FC John When: Oct 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: ABSOLUTELY CLASSIC!!! This might be the finest face pitch of 10 in the Canyon. It's an exercise in mind control and keeping a cool head way above marginal gear. The bolts provide a little bit of assurance that you won't deck if you come off, but Meta is classic Eldo spice in the most delicious and tasty way!
BETA: Look carefully for the third bolt before entering the crux sequence...I somehow missed and climbed way past the cammo'd third bolt on while zoned out on the moves. But did find a... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: FC John When: Oct 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route with Danny I. as a Rosy linkup we're dubbing "Rosy Alice". Alice is the perfect 5.8 route for one who is a comfortable 5.10 leader in Eldo. The moves pulling the roofs on both pitches were blind and committing and there was fairly regular 20-30 ft run out sections. The route was easily done to the top of the saddle in two pitches with good runners.
Note: The bees/wasps were in full effect as 10/7 at the 1st belay.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks
By: FC John When: Aug 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Recent torrential rain during the first two weeks of August 2007 have left the road to Turkey Rocks very bad shape. I had a AWD Subaru with 6 inches of clearance, and I worried about doing damage to my vehicle.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Two Jews Blues (5.10a)
By: FC John When: Aug 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreeing with the above posts. Many of the micro flakes have been quite exfoliated and seems a few letter grades harder than 10a...likely 10c. Fantastic route top to bottom. Stop reading this and go DO THIS ROUTE!
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: FC John When: Aug 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this route for the 5th time. There have been lots of comments about linking pitches and here is my addition to the discussion.
We did the route from top to bottom in 3 pitches with a 60 m rope by bypassing the 5.4 3rd pitch on Pear Buttress.
P1: Started the 5.7 PG-13 face climb and climbed all the way up to the barnacled/crystal ledge at the base of two finger cracks. (linked P1&2)
P2: Went up the left of two finger cracks (5.9 -- P2 of loose ends) up past the chain belay ledge th... more >>
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Citadel Crag : Heads of the Valley (5.10c)
By: FC John When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has a very stout, boulder start with a strenuous first clip. There was a small and manky nut before the first bolt that I'm not sure would hold a fall.
I placed a orange TCU and a medium nut in between some of the bolts. Continue climbing right on the dike until you reach a pod with a manky old pin. Set up a anchor with #0.75, 0.5 BD and a few nuts to bring up your second. Walk off to the climber's right.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : The Grand Traverse (5.10+)
By: FC John When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 is super classic and the smooth rock quality is atypical of Vedauwoo.
|
Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Climb and Punishment (5.9)
By: FC John When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super classic.
With the exception of the first 10 feet which are a bit awkward, sinker jams the whole way.
|
Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector D'or et Bleu : Tutu Man (5.10d)
By: FC John When: Jul 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 was a bit awkward getting off of the ground but fun stemming a jamming the whole way.
P2 rivals the first in terms of quality and is a nice contrast in style. Fun slabby moves up high and pulling over the bulge.
Led both pitches together as one long mega classic line. Bring 20 or 21 draws or bring less and back clean as you go.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Rover (5.11b R)
By: FC John When: Mar 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the first two pitches of this route with Danny Inman & Schwetty as a single pitch with a 60M up to the bolted belay to bypass the opening pitches of Ruper. Pretty fun and funky climbing.
|
RSS Feed
