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Member Since: Nov 9, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,795
Total Points: 155
Last Year: 19
Last 30 Days: 1
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Fat Dad been climbing?










Contributions


All 1558 | Routes | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 120 | Posts 1342 | Stars 75 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Canyon Boulders : Fritz Face (V6)
By: Fat Dad When: 6 days ago

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Comments: There's a video on youtube of some strong but skilless doofus trying the same maneuver. Like many flakes at Stoney, it's not going to be there for long with people wanking on it like that.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Toddler Terrace : Wheels on the Bus (5.7)
By: Fat Dad When: Mar 28, 2016

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Comments: Fun climb. Different than most Malibu Creek routes in that its more edgey than pocketed. Some friable holds through the crux so use them gingerly.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Heart Route (Free) (5.13b V10) : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: Awesome shot.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Sky Top : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: I don't ever remember hearing anything about a .13b grade (but then I'm not a Gunkie). I remember reading the Hudon/Jones article in Mountain (66 or 67) about what I think is their second ascent and I don't recall that they ever referred to it as anything other than hard 12. Plus, didn't Steve Wunsch do the first ascent, not Kauk?


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : UCLA : Bruin Walk : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: I was at UCLA from '83 to '85, and then grad school from '87 to '90. I never met let alone saw another climber the whole time I was there. How did I not hear about this?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Dozier Dome : Ursula (5.10c PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: Great climb. Pitch 1 is definitely the technical crux, but pitch 3 is the true test of your face climbing chops.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : South Crack (5.8 R)
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: Definitely warrants an R rating for all but the most competent slab climbers (and even then it's still run). Let's put it this way, I climbed Ursula (.10c, trad bolted per the usual Tuolumne standards) on Dozier Dome the day before, and was glad I did when I got to the 5.7 pitch. It's just 5.7, but since it's the Meadows you'll be much more relaxed if you're solid at the grade.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : The Howling (5.10a PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: Terrific route to a terrific summit. This route really encapsulates the exposed, out there feeling of climbing at the Needles. Two comments.

First, the descriptions that mention a short second pitch to reach the rap anchors pertain only if you climb the right of the two cracks. We climbed the left, which leads directly to the rap anchors. Second, contrary to what some have written here, I found the moves getting to the first bolt way more heady than climbing the crux past the bolts themselv... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Polar Bears in Bondage (5.7)
By: Fat Dad When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: Kind of fun but kind of a sandbag as far as the rating. I thought the thin crack down low felt substantially harder than the 5.7 next door, harder even than the 5.9 a couple routes over. Easier if you're taller.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : ... : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: Great photo, though the hard part isn't reaching the holds. The hard part is pushing out that mantle.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Outback Bouldering : Iron Door Cave Boulder : IDC Problem (V2)
By: Fat Dad When: Mar 13, 2015

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Comments: Fun problem. Word is apparently out on social media about the cave though. I was out there last weekend and there was a conga line of people stretching from Hidden Valley CG to the cave. Felt like the crowds at Lower Yosemite Falls.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9) : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 18, 2014

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Comments: Wow! And I used to snicker when my grandma warned me about 'snakes on the rocks'...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Mr. Bunny's Refund Check (5.10a)
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: I remember this being a fun and engaging route. Far better than one star (which in Josh can mean an unpleasant grain fest).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : More Funky than Monkey Rock : More Monkey than Funky (5.11b/c)
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: ^^^
Wow, that dude is lucky he didn't crack his melon on the lip. No idea how he could have fallen from there. There's a tricky move getting established around the lip (that I think is the actually crux of the route, not the roof), but once you've done that, it's pretty mellow to the top. Guess it ain't over till it's over.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Beaches : Pirate's Cove (aka The Beac...
By: Fat Dad When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Comments like the one above are just false, or the guy is just having some fun spewing. Although climbing at The Beach is very condition dependent (lots of posts saying just that), the rock is generally good quality. There are some places in the tall, middle portion of the cliff that are grainier and looser, but that's pretty obvious once you get there. Let's put it this way. I started climbing there more than 30 yrs. ago and, although it's sandstone, the holds on really popular climbs like ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Iceberg Boulder : ... : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: I like dad's expression down below. I think my kids would dig this as well.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Whitney : Cardiovascular Seizure (5.10+)
By: Fat Dad When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: Wow, way to dig out an obscure climb. I always wondered where this route went. Was this in a more recent guide? The only place I ever read an account of it was a typically vague description in an old AAJ. FA: Galen Rowell and I think Vern Clevenger. Don't quote me on the latter though.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Ghetto Simulator : Ghetto Simulator (V2)
By: Fat Dad When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: "Once upon a time, when I first did this problem I would have given it 3 stars, no doubt it was good and fun. However in the two times I've done it in the last few years it was absurdly crowded and greasy and for me that does not leave me feeling warm and fuzzy. So yes I can say that in my opinion those things detract from the problem."

I think this is a good problem--almost a mini route--but I did back about the time LeeAB did when it was still fairly pristine. In fact, it wasn't even in the ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Smooth Sole Wall : Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si... : The Fiend (5.9 R)
By: Fat Dad When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: I really like this route. I'm surprised it only has two stars. I think it's equal in quality to most of the other routes on the wall. I know some fret about the move to the first bolt, but it's pretty standard Suicide-type climbing.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : South Face (5.9 PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: I've posted a marked up topo from the old guide, which we found to be pretty accurate. A great route. Not as classic as, say, Igor or Thin Ice, but a great route all the same. Adventurous and worth a little effort. Some notes on our climb.

Pitch 1: We saw another party on what we assumed was the first pitch, which they later told us was the first pitch of the S Crack. Either way, it was simple to traverse over to the second pitch of the South Face. Having said that, that's probably evide... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Us and Them (aka The Route ... (5.9 R)
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: Poorly named route.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Boulder 1 : The Nose (V-easy)
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: This used to be rated 5.6 in the old guide. If this is VO then the Three Pigs is a V2.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Igor Unchained (5.9+)
By: Fat Dad When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Under the category of 'ratings are totally subjective', I can't imagine how someone would find the last pitch harder than the first two, particularly the second. The first pitch is pretty straightforward, just a little weird in places. But the second, with the awkward wide bulge and the thin face moves to the belay I found substantially harder than anything on the third pitch. There, if you don't have a solid edge or a bomber jam, you aren't looking hard enough.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Pirate's Cove : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: While that looks terrific, I still really like our Pirate's Cove out here.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Cascade Falls - Upper : The Phoenix (5.13a)
By: Fat Dad When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: It's odd this page has a pic of Ray Jardine on the FA (1977) but then reports Mark Hudon as doing the FA a year later.


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