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Member Since: Nov 9, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Fat Dad

Point Rank: # 3,667
Total Points: 170
Last Year: 33
Last 30 Days: 3
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Fat Dad been climbing?










Contributions


All 1610 | Routes | Areas | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 126 | Posts 1380 | Stars 79 | Ratings 16
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: page 2

page 2

Forums : Southern California : ... : Post

Jun 6, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: my letter

my letter

Jun 6, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Witch Needle

Witch Needle

Jan 22, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Posing at the far right side of the Ghetto Wall.

Posing at the far right side of the Ghetto Wall.

Forums : Southern California : ... : Post

Nov 28, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Don't say you weren't warned.

Don't say you weren't warned.

Forums : Southern California : ... : Post

Apr 2, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: You can see the dihedral on the second pitch of Fa...

You can see the dihedral on the second pitch of Fancy Free, that would probably be sunny earlier in the day, and then Spooky all sun.

Forums : ... :

Nov 25, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Here's Witch.

Here's Witch.

Forums : ... :

Nov 25, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: South Face topo

South Face topo

CA : Southern Sierra : ... : South Face (5.9 PG13)

Sep 4, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Doug Scott crawling down the Ogre.

Doug Scott crawling down the Ogre.

Forums : General Climbing : ... : Post

Mar 4, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6)
By: Fat Dad When: Jul 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I did this climb last weekend and, with the small tree gone on the first pitch, had complete dementia as where you normally belay. This was compounded by a set of belay bolts that someone recently installed that are down and right of where the tree used to be. Avoid these, obviously. Once past the big tree, head up and right toward the small stump sticking out of the crack, which is where lots of folks used to belay. Nowadays, I'd recommend climbing a few feet past it to ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Dozier Dome : Scandalous Summer (5.7)
By: Fat Dad When: Jun 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Really fun climb. Despite a good number of bolts, it should be considered trad bolted (although generous by Tuolumne standards), not a sport climb. If the top is wet, which it is early season, you can climb up and right from the last bolt, though it's a little stiffer than 5.7. Some will feel better by bringing a gold camalot to place above the last bolt. Finally, given the traffic from the three routes leading to Blitzo's Terrace, some thought should ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Dozier Dome : White Lie (5.8 R)
By: Fat Dad When: Jun 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This looks like a great climb but I don't understand the rationale for placing the first bolt so high. In addition, there is no (natural) belay anchor and there's about 50 ft. of slab beneath the small ledge you belay from. If the leader slips before clipping the first bolt, you're both going to take a really nasty tumble.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Great Pumpkin (5.8 R)
By: Fat Dad When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Let me point out to those unfamiliar with So Cal climbing history. This route was put up by TWO face masters, Kamps and Bud '"Ivan" Couch, who put up Valhalla (.11a) at Suicide, the route one had to lead to become a Stonemaster.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Left Side : Jonah (5.10c)
By: Fat Dad When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: Great picture of Tom Higgins climbing this in Climbing in North America by Chris Jones (if you can find a copy).


Location: CA : High Sierra : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: May 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Nice photo. I've been dying to get back in there (Cloud Canyon), but it's quite a walk.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Stoney Point : Canyon Boulders : Fritz Face (V6)
By: Fat Dad When: Apr 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: There's a video on youtube of some strong but skilless doofus trying the same maneuver. Like many flakes at Stoney, it's not going to be there for long with people wanking on it like that.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Toddler Terrace : Wheels on the Bus (5.7)
By: Fat Dad When: Mar 28, 2016

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Comments: Fun climb. Different than most Malibu Creek routes in that its more edgey than pocketed. Some friable holds through the crux so use them gingerly.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Heart Route (Free) (5.13b V10) : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Mar 13, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome shot.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Sky Top : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Dec 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I don't ever remember hearing anything about a .13b grade (but then I'm not a Gunkie). I remember reading the Hudon/Jones article in Mountain (66 or 67) about what I think is their second ascent and I don't recall that they ever referred to it as anything other than hard 12. Plus, didn't Steve Wunsch do the first ascent, not Kauk?


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : UCLA : Bruin Walk : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: I was at UCLA from '83 to '85, and then grad school from '87 to '90. I never met let alone saw another climber the whole time I was there. How did I not hear about this?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Area : Dozier Dome : Ursula (5.10c PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb. Pitch 1 is definitely the technical crux, but pitch 3 is the true test of your face climbing chops.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : South Crack (5.8 R)
By: Fat Dad When: Nov 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely warrants an R rating for all but the most competent slab climbers (and even then it's still run). Let's put it this way, I climbed Ursula (.10c, trad bolted per the usual Tuolumne standards) on Dozier Dome the day before, and was glad I did when I got to the 5.7 pitch. It's just 5.7, but since it's the Meadows you'll be much more relaxed if you're solid at the grade.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : The Howling (5.10a PG13)
By: Fat Dad When: Aug 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Terrific route to a terrific summit. This route really encapsulates the exposed, out there feeling of climbing at the Needles. Two comments.

First, the descriptions that mention a short second pitch to reach the rap anchors pertain only if you climb the right of the two cracks. We climbed the left, which leads directly to the rap anchors. Second, contrary to what some have written here, I found the moves getting to the first bolt way more heady than climbing the crux past the bolts themselv... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Polar Bears in Bondage (5.7)
By: Fat Dad When: May 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Kind of fun but kind of a sandbag as far as the rating. I thought the thin crack down low felt substantially harder than the 5.7 next door, harder even than the 5.9 a couple routes over. Easier if you're taller.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : ... : Photo
By: Fat Dad When: Apr 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Great photo, though the hard part isn't reaching the holds. The hard part is pushing out that mantle.


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