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Member Since: Jun 14, 2011
Last Visit: Oct 6, 2013
Contact farkas.time


Point Rank: # 1,042
Total Points: 562
Last Year: 350
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
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Where has farkas.time been climbing?










Contributions


All (424) | Routes (31) | Areas (7) | Photos (20) | Comments (47) | Posts (11) | Stars (177) | Ratings (131)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Tre Cime di Lavaredo
By: farkas.time When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: Tre cime has dozens of routes. Separating this into sub-areas, such as each peak, and even sub-sub areas with each face would be worthwhile to facilitate the development of this area as people add routes.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Tre Cime di Lavaredo : Cima Piccola South Arete ... (5.9+)
By: farkas.time When: Sep 26, 2013

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Comments: A few things.

1) This climb is totally awesome. Get it!
2) The route description here is one of about 100 ways to get up there. Get a good topo, follow the general trend, and look for pins or new bolts to anchor belays. Many regions of the climb are wide open for your creativity. There are bizillions of bolts and anchors set up all over this rock, so don't assume you're "on route" if you're at some shiney new anchors.
3) Bring a singe rack of cams to 3" and a rack of nuts. While some guide bo... more >>


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Hollybush Crack Area
By: farkas.time When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: Order here from left to right:

1) Hollybush Crack
2) Queersville
3) The Nose
4) Yosemite Wall
5) Leaning Buttress Gully
6) Hangover
7) Leaning Buttress Direct
8) Leaning Buttress Indirect
9) Leaning Buttress Crack
10) Garden Wall (see superfluous Garden Wall area)
11) Chockstone Direct
12) Beech Tree Wall


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Queersville (5.9 PG13)
By: farkas.time When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: A great climb. Reachy and heady. While the gear is good, it's not abundant, and you're constantly having to make long, committing moves above your placements. Definitely height dependent. Easily 5.10 if you're short. Enjoy!


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom
By: farkas.time When: Sep 1, 2013

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Comments: Mountain Project is generally not so great for UK climbing. I add almost every climb I do here, but if you're looking for a more nearly comprehensive list of climbs and areas, see ukclimbing.com. I prefer Mountain Project in layout, but it's just not all there. Develop!


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Croton Oil (5.9)
By: farkas.time When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: I found the protection to be a bit fiddly -- not a good first 5.9/5.10 lead, but the climb is quite excellent, with really nice exposure and a lovely position high above the Rivelin Valley.

The OW start is pretty cool (kneebar!), but is a bit contrived, given it's only 10 feet of climbing, it's useless to try and protect it, and you can just walk around.

The rappel chain is a little sketchy -- it's thin, rusty, and you can't check half of it. If I knew how to install a couple bolts, I would.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: farkas.time When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Got a #1 BD cam stuck low down today [blush]. Pretty wedged. I'll go back for it with some tools soon, but if you manage to get it out in the meantime, please call 303 621 4250. Thanks!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Hand Crack (aka White Light... (5.10b)
By: farkas.time When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: My first 5.10 trad lead today. Super safe, super fun. Do it! Found Chockstone (5.10a) substantially harder.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: farkas.time When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Despite rumor of mid-way pro, the upper half of the flake is hugely run out with rack up to #4 C4. If leading this: 1) be solid at 5.9, and 2) don't climb it in the heat/sun -- it's a friction/stemming slab climb with very few proper holds. Going IN the OW seemed like a bad idea to me -- I climbed on the outside of the flake. The 60m of climbing following the flake was 5.7 PHENOMENAL. Enjoy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Fool (5.10d)
By: farkas.time When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: I think this route is OK. The low crux is tricky and a little awkward, but the rest of the climb is nice. It's a good warm-up once you know the crux beta.


Location: VT : Jamaica
By: farkas.time When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: There is some potential, but it's undeveloped. Would take a lot of wire brushing. I see some short leads and maybe a bunch of boulder problems.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag
By: farkas.time When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: Does anybody know what the bolted route is just to the right of Dementia and to the left of Cheers? It follows the left-facing arete/flake making the giant overhanging V-slot finger crack of Dementia. I've topped it a couple times now and it feels much harder than Cheers to me.

Thanks!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Nightcap (5.9)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: Really nice climb! Highly recommended. Well protected, long and fun.

I recommend bouldering to the obvious 3 inch crack about 25 feet up and plugging a Camalot #4.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Chouette (5.6)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: Excellent climb. I gave this one 5.7. Definitely an easy-moderate but some difficult movement on small holds in places. Not a cake walk.

Bring a #0.5 Camalot for the start and some small nuts for the mid-section. Alternatively, if you're solid at 5.6, don't bother with trad gear -- these spots are on the easy side for this climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Empor (5.7+)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: If you're not good at fist and hand jamming, like me, that zig-zag crack at the top is pretty scary, but there is good pro (Camalots #1-3), and the fall would be pretty safe. It definitely earns the "+".

We soloed to the top of the start boulder and did the entire route in one long pitch with a 60m rope. I think it was close to all the rope though. A 70m rope would be more prudent for anchor building at the top. Rope drag wasn't really an issue, so if you're looking to get up and down qui... more >>


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Gamma (5.3)
By: farkas.time When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: The traverse is easy (5.0), but unprotected. British grading puts this route at S 4a. An all around enjoyable beginner piece. Good practice for double ropes.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Sickle Buttress (5.3)
By: farkas.time When: Jul 27, 2012

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Comments: Pictured here is somebody climbing Sickle Buttress DIRECT (VS 5a =~ 5.9). The 5.3 route trends right about 1/3 up, rather than going straight to the top.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Valkyrie (5.9+)
By: farkas.time When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: pretty hard for HVS 5a I thought. Awkward start too. Pumpy and a bit scary.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Embankment 1 (5.10d)
By: farkas.time When: Jul 26, 2012

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Comments: Did first pitch only. Wow. That was awkward!


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Great Portland Steet (5.9)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 20, 2012

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Comments: A very difficult start (protected by a good wire) leads to DELICIOUS climbing above.

"What are you yelling about? Are you OK? Did you get something stuck?" Mo yells up to me. "I'm just having soo much fun!!" I reply!


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : The Knight's Move (5.9)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 20, 2012

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Comments: Quite good. Tall for Burbage North with good movement and well protected crux moves.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Robin Hood's Right-Hand But... (5.6)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: big gear.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Heaven Crack (5.5)
By: farkas.time When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: excellent first lead. endless pro. easy climbing, but not thoughtless. very worthwhile.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : d. Harvest Moon to the End : Eowyn (5.4)
By: farkas.time When: May 30, 2012

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Comments: p1 is harder (5.5/5.6), awkward, short, run-out, hard to protect, and all around worthless except as access to p2. It should be lead with confidence due to ground-fall potential.

p2 is sustained and enjoyable 5.4 climbing with good pro.

Thanks, JSW, for putting up this description.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : MF (5.9)
By: farkas.time When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: My leader accidentally did the variation that goes straight up the roof, then up to the anchors, without stepping out right. Following him, I did the canonical roof route, but then immediately had to traverse left on the edgey face with thin feet to collect his pro up the variation. This little variation turned out to be totaly awesome, but quite hard. I'm not familiar with what harder Gunks grades feel like, but I would put this at 10+/11-, with some really fun, tensiony moves from thin crimps ... more >>


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