Contributed Comments |
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holy Saturday : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good thing you got them at REI.
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Location: John Shultz : JAZZ : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Apparently, those Calif bears have learned to do everything except read.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Black Lung (5.8)
By: Evan1984 When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Been on this twice and chickened out and hung both times before easily pulling the crux.
My advice is to protect the crux from the stance. Then,do as I say, not as I do. Sack up and pull the move. It's over quickly. I can get a great #3 BD down a little low in the crux and a 1/.75 from the stance.
Just make sure to protect it.
EVan
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Klingon (5.9 R)
By: Evan1984 When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are ample opportunities to sling things and place gear to back up the bolt. I always bring some long pieces of webbing to setting up Tr at Gibraltar
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : The Cat's Me-ow. (5.10) : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: terrier owning climbers unite!
Like this
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Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Things I Never Learned (5.9)
By: Evan1984 When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a one move wonder, but puts a smile on your face. Worth doing.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Lady and the Tramp (5.4)
By: Evan1984 When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just did this and clip a dee yesterday. Who knew that 5.4 clip ups could be so fun?
The fall colors are prime right now and this is motivation enough.
One thing to note is that you need two ropes if you are planning to rappel from the first belay anchors. Finishing the pitch 2 and walking off is 100% prefferable and more polite to other users as this is well traveled. That said, some people were trying to rap the pitch and ran into problems. It is a casual down climb, though.
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Location: Andrew Krosbakken : Climbing '08 : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is your reasoning behind cliping the way you do on the right? Sure, if you make sure the carabiner is not contacting anything AND you stand right by it to make sure it doesn't shift, its fine.
However, most of the time, you can go directly through the knot(still keep direction of pull in mind). Otherwise, you could use a bowline and tie off the tree or a basket hitch, which doesn't have the problem of cinching down and risking contacting the tree. Incidentally, I'm going more and more t... more >>
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Location: CA : Orange County : Ortega Falls : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow!!! That's really great of you guys to take the time and $ to do that.
Thank you very much!
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Location: ME : Jockey Cap
By: Evan1984 When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We went out to see this place because I'd heard some good things.
Basically, the mosquitos drove us off in 10 minutes. They are worse than Alaska(at least on 7/28/09).
There look to be some cool boulders and some hard sport, but, IMHO, it is not worth the spot considering that cathederal and whitehorse are 30 minutes away.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Applied Magnetics (5.8 PG13)
By: Evan1984 When: Jul 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scary for the grade as the gear isn't super and it's not rock solid/couldn't fall if you tried type 5.8 climbing.
Some small cams and wires give you the pro you can get. I think some people use a #2 BD down low.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Rockocco (5.5)
By: Evan1984 When: Jul 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is probably more traveled to drop Top-ropes for vanishing flakes than anything else.
Once you make the traverse left, you gain the same easy crack system that finishes up Vanishing flakes. Bolts at top for TR/Rap
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Many Happy Returns (5.9+)
By: Evan1984 When: Jul 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route and probably one of my local favorites!
The crux for me is the slabby part from the first bolt to the stance to clip the second. The physical crux is probably the steep face/lieback part from the 2nd bolt to the nice ledge.
A light rack will do. A .75 and a 1 BD camalot protect the lieback well. I don't recall using any other pro, but its been a while since I've done this one.
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Location: CO : American Climber’s Body Ide...
By: Evan1984 When: Jun 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is absolutely the worst news. I don't really know what to say other than that.
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Location: CO : June Voluntary Climbing Clo...
By: Evan1984 When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: To climb or not is a personal choice. No one is going to get in your face if you going waltzing up with a rope and rack during June. I've been there twice in June and I didn't even see a protest/advocates other than a sign respectfully asking people not to climb.
So, if you choose to climb, just go about doing what you should always be doing in terms leave no trace and respecting other users.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2)
By: Evan1984 When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We got shut down on this last week, but made it through the crux just above the roof cleanly. I found a good spot for a purple mastercam.
For a fledgling big waller, the keys to success in my opinion are having your rope management down and the traffic gods smiling on you. Neither of which were going our way.
Great route and a good but attainable challenge for a novice. I will be back.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Triple Exposure (5.12c/d C1)
By: Evan1984 When: Feb 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't describe this as a good climb, but it was a good doable challenge for fledgling aid climbers like myself and Phil. Rock quality isn't awe inspiring.
Anchor update:
Sal's anchor seems to still be right below the thin crack and in decent condition.
A chain anchor from a good bolt and 2 decent pins make the anchor above the thin crack. Also, 2 other pins make organizing the belay nice.
When I arrived at the top anchors, I found what looked to have been a 4 point anchor where one pie... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c) : Photo
By: Evan1984 When: Feb 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This man has the pain tolerance of a Klingon.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Evan1984 When: Feb 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Topped out right at sunset after taking a variation due to congestion on the hand traverse pitch. Good even if a little loose. We'll have to come back for the money pitches.
Found one party at the top with only 1 headlamp and very little clue about the descent. Another party finished up after us, but asked us to stay because they had no headlamps or idea about the descent.
We ended up hiking in the dark and sharing headlamps with the other two parties. People need to come prepared becaus... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : The Bomb (5.4)
By: Evan1984 When: Feb 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good beginner route. Helmets are about as mandatory as a rope anywhere on this section of the rock.
There is a rap anchor at the top of this climb which is used for many of the climbs on the tower. If you must set up a top rope, please build in the crack to the right of the anchors or underneath the second pitch with an extension. Otherwise, a bunch of other parties will be waiting on you.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: Evan1984 When: Feb 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this yesterday and found it to be fun and well protected, with a distinct crux at the end. I agree with the rating because the crux is stiff but the rest is straight forward.
Getting a good wide stance at the crux will save you some grief as it can be pumpy and want to make you swing out. You can place throughout the crux, but the strain involved might mean you're better served just moving through it. A good stance before the hard stuff lets you get a good piece in the lower part of... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Aid Crack (5.10d)
By: Evan1984 When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went here today to practice aid (nuts and cams only), and it was gorgeous. Even though it was always in the shade, the bottom of the route was dry and I was fine with themals and a jacket.
Check it out if the warmth sticks around.
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Chlitlin Corner (5.7)
By: Evan1984 When: Jan 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: probably because the contributor only described the 1st pitch, but he did say the 2nd pitch goes at 5.10
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Grocery Store Wall : Gatoraide (5.12+ A0)
By: Evan1984 When: Jan 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris,
I'm not knocking you personally, but the fact that you couldn't get off the ground on something that was presumably within your grade does not make the given grade 2+ numbers off. I've had it handed to me on climbs that should have been easy. There's no shame.
Climbs will seem harder/easier to you depending on your experience, fitness, body type, climbing style and mindset for the day. If this was truly a "14 something" I'm pretty sure the FA would be known.
Cheers and happy climbin... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Gibraltar Rock : Mid-Face (5.6 R)
By: Evan1984 When: Apr 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the place of choice to give your friends a climbing experience in SB. No leading for you with questionable belayers, good anchor options, and exposure with a view.
Be prepared for classes on the weekends.
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