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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Apron Jam (5.9)
By: Evan Riley When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great lie-backing practice. You can reach the tree for a stellar 180' pitch which serves as a great approach to Mr. Natural. Gear is doubles from 0.3 - 4 and a single #5. More gear beta below.
Don't be afraid to burn the big gear down low, up higher you can sink smaller cams. I walked a 4 and 5 up until the crack narrowed and then ended up carrying those boat anchors to the top.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Mr. Natural (5.10+)
By: Evan Riley When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you approach from Apron Jam, climb all the way to the tree in a single 180' pitch. Traversing right from the secure Apron Jam munge to the tree is exciting but secure.
A double rack from 0-2 and some small stoppers will get you to the top without problem. Good rests and good gear all the way up.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Serenity Crack (5.10d PG13)
By: Evan Riley When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch was wet in late march which made it extra sketchy. You can climb the Son's-Serenity link up in 5 pitches with a 70m rope.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Sacherer Cracker (5.10a)
By: Evan Riley When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no chock stone in the OW up top anymore. Bring a 5 and/or 6 for the top or be comfortable running it 15ish feet in that OW.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Mark of Art (5.10d)
By: Evan Riley When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A stout route. Triples is 0.4 - 0.5 C4s. The death block at near the top is pretty serious. I could easily kill a belayer if it fell. Someone should trundle it. Its kitchen table size and ready to go with some encouragement.
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Location: CA : Sonora Pass (Hwy 108) : Table Mountain : The Grotto : Chicken Ranch Bingo (5.10b)
By: Evan Riley When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wash your hands after climbing this. Spring 2013 and the holds up high were covered in bat shit.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Lucky Streaks (5.10c/d)
By: Evan Riley When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can link 1&2 with a 70m rope and do this thing in 5 pitches. When linking 1&2 you will come up just short of the standard belay for the start of pitch 3 with a rope stretching 70m of climbing. You can then stop at a comfyish ledge to belay the money pitch and make it to the standard belay for the start of pitch 4.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Dominion (5.10a)
By: Evan Riley When: Apr 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beware! A 70m does not exactly get you to the ground from the anchors to the left. You can rap to a ledge 20' off the deck and down climb 5.6 to get to the ground.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Variation (5.10d R)
By: Evan Riley When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this yesterday. It didn't feel so run out. You can sling the monkey fist once you are a few moves up, then plug double equalized cams in the roof before you move around to the face. After that the gear is good. The crux is pulling the second roof.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Psychedelic Tree (5.9)
By: Evan Riley When: Sep 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed in two pitches with a 60 meter rope. The death blocks were off the wall (and on the ground at the base of the route), but the route was still dirty. If cleaned it would be a leap classic.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Black Magic (5.8)
By: Evan Riley When: Feb 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was a great route but a bit cold (my partner was freezing in a down sweater) in mid February, I thought the route would get some sun but it never came.
Keep going after the 3rd bolt on the 1st pitch or it makes pitch 2 a rope stretcher. The route soaked up small chocks and TCU's so pack extra.
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