Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Spoonless in the Obed.


Member Since: Oct 3, 2012
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact evan h

evan h
is a member of
Point Rank: # 2,726
Total Points: 261
Last Year: 42
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has evan h been climbing?










Contributions


All 941 | Routes 10 | Areas | Photos 26 | Page Improvements | Comments 31 | Posts 229 | Stars 336 | Ratings 309
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Dome : How Can A Monkey Jump Over ... (5.12)
By: evan h When: Aug 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: So with all that being said above, would anyone be opposed to me placing extended chain permadraws on the corner bolts and potentially moving the lip bolt if the permadraws don't solve the rope-in-crack issue? Not only is the rope threading an issue, but cleaning those draws when lowering feels just as hard as climbing it! If no one is opposed, I'm happy to do the work.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Dome : How Can A Monkey Jump Over ... (5.12)
By: evan h When: Aug 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I only gave this one burn, so take my observations with me a grain of salt, but I noted a potentially dangerous rope situation when pulling out of the roof onto the final headwall. The rope threaded into a sharp crack and was practically stuck when I tried to move and clip the final bolts. I extended 3-4 bolts before the roof, but I could not find a way to extend the two bolts in the corner sequence (mid-crux). The rope only cleared the crack when I lowered down and unclipped one of the draws. A... more >>


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Photo
By: evan h When: Aug 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Good edition, Geoff.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : The Strike (5.12)
By: evan h When: Jul 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This route has some good climbing, save for a couple of awkward sections. As far as the grade, it's harder than El Gato and Mufasa, but probably not by much.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Crag : Scantily Trad (5.12)
By: evan h When: Jul 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A really cool route with some fun gymnastic moves. Don't let the trad classification scare you away. The business is all on bolts, and you could honestly bring no gear, although it would certainly be an airy finish. I placed a BD 0.3 and 0.4 which more than sewed it up.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : Prowler (5.10b/c)
By: evan h When: May 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: By popular demand, this route now has an independent lower anchor. See Mill Creek Block page for details.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : Watch Your Dog (5.11b)
By: evan h When: May 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: By popular demand, this route now has an independent lower anchor. See Mill Creek Block page for details.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block
By: evan h When: May 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The two face routes, Better Watch Your Dog and The Prowler, now both have independent anchors. I spoke with many who found the upper anchor inconvenient at best and potentially dangerous at worst, so I decided to go ahead and put these in. I used one lead bolt of the Prowler, as this was the best location to end the route. Richard's bolts and anchors are still in place should you wish to go to the top.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : The Strike (5.12)
By: evan h When: Apr 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I added a two bolt anchor for a new line (Mufasa) that begins directly to the left (and shares the first bolt) of The Strike. This anchor can now be used to finish The Strike and avoid the low 5th class scramble to the upper chains. Richard's original bolts are still usable if you want to take the glory lap to the top.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: evan h When: Apr 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Last summer I placed two quicklinks on each of the anchor rings to promote lowering without wearing the rings (which would require full replacement of the bolt). I returned on Saturday to find them missing. These were obviously placed for a reason, so I'd appreciate it if you can return them. I put time and money into placing them there. Thanks.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Double Dominatrix (5.12d)
By: evan h When: Mar 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Really a fantastic route with variable styles of climbing! It's unique to immediately switch from powerful roof moves to delicate and tenuous slab climbing. My thoughts on the lower crux: definitely go direct for full flavor, although I would disagree that it clocks in at V6 once your beta is dialed (I've never sent or even come close to sending a proper V6). I also at first explored the left variation, as it is easier, but it felt a bit off route and obviously skirted a more direct approach. Ev... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hot Stuff (5.10)
By: evan h When: Dec 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Monty, thanks for your efforts on this. This route has been on my mental to-do list of dodgy bolts. I climbed this yesterday and immediately noticed the new bomber hardware!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : Southwest Corner (5.9) : Photo
By: evan h When: Aug 30, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I'm fairly certain this isn't the last pitch. This looks like what we did as the start to P5, and I wondered if we were off route (felt stiff for 5.8). I climbed this and cut around right into the sun on what I was certain was the described 5.8 corner, but I wasn't sure about the bottom section.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Moving Out (5.12b)
By: evan h When: Aug 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Ok, I'm too dumb to figure this out. Both the bottom and upper third feel quite hard for 12b, but I really don't understand the sequence getting established in the lie-back crack at the top. I'm in agreement that there might be a height thing here, as T-Rex is having problems. Anyone care to share?


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: evan h When: Jul 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Absolutely. Brush and clean at will.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Lisa Randall Wall : Strong Force (5.11d)
By: evan h When: Jul 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a fun route with a definite crux pulling the roof. Some clever sequencing and body positioning are key. I'd also recommend stick clipping the second bolt. I'm glad you got this wall polished up, Richard; it's a fun new addition! In the heat, I wouldn't have argued with soft 12a, but with cooler conditions, I'd say it's fair at 11d.


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: evan h When: Jul 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Cool, Richard, glad you enjoyed it. You're right, I did stay direct and a bit left by doing a sequence that involved a fairly burly, left shoulder move off the high gaston. I experimented with some moves out right, but I have T-Rex syndrome and couldn't make the reaches work for me. If there's a logical sequence, I'll make a point to get back up there with a brush and open up a few more options. Glad to hear there's not a significantly easier sequence at least! Some of the black schist is garbag... more >>


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: evan h When: Jun 30, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, Richard. I'm not certain on the grade, as it really does boil down to equating it to a V-grade. The grade might be subjective depending on personal strength/power over a few moves.

I also TR'd a line that extends straight up from your first bolt on The Strike (same line?). I really liked the movement, but it was really wet at the time and would require a good bit of cleaning. Additionally, there's probably some potential for fun link-ups on the Prowler face as well!

I've enjoyed discov... more >>


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : Mill Creek Block : El Gato Monte (5.12a)
By: evan h When: Jun 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A lower start can be done over what looks like some fun bouldering moves, which would add a letter grade or so and definitely up the pump factor. That being said, it's fairly contrived, as you could step left onto the large block at the base of the standard start.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Mournful Mullet (5.8)
By: evan h When: Jun 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: There is now a 2-bolt anchor on top of Shark Infested Waters, which will be more convenient (and safer) than traversing to the Feeding Frenzy anchors. Or just use the Major Bolt Achievement anchors, which may be a better choice for this route.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Shark Attack! or Shark Infe... (5.10d)
By: evan h When: Jun 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: With the permission of Tod Anderson, I added a 2-bolt stainless steel anchor to the top of this route yesterday. I found it a worthy route, especially if you're looking to push things a bit on gear at NTM. Unfortunately, using the anchors of nearby routes created pretty bad rope grinding scenarios when lowering and made it nearly impossible to clean on the rappel/lower. The new hardware should alleviate these problems.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Tres Piedras
By: evan h When: Sep 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There is a new restaurant/cafe/grocery store/B&B at Tres Piedras called Chili Line Depot. On the way back to CO this morning, we stopped in for a quick breakfast burrito. We met one of the owners, Debbie, and she expressed a lot of excitement about serving the climbing community in the future. She was amazingly friendly and showed us around the bedrooms for rent, which also included a pool table/lounge area. The breakfast burritos were excellent (didn't try any other food). I think the bedroom m... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Convenience Cliff : Kwik-E-Mart (5.11-)
By: evan h When: Aug 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There is now a very loose block between the first and second bolt. We marked it with an "X" in chalk, but it should probably be trundled. My only concern is that it may be acting as a support for the more prominent lieback flakes above, so we left it. Be very careful, as this was a useful hand and foot hold. The sequence is only a slight notch harder if you avoid this block, and doesn't affect the overall difficulty of the route.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Convenience Cliff : Five and Dime (5.10)
By: evan h When: Aug 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I think this is a great route, with the only strike against it being the break in climbing at the prominent ledge. Really fun (and well protected) V0/V1 boulder problem to the ledge, and 10a-ish climbing at the top with a tricky finish.


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: evan h When: Aug 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hey guys...I have one confirmation that cell service is available up here, but I wanted to check with some of the locals. I need to be available via cell, and I use Verizon. Any issues? Thanks and looking forward to checking it all out!


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!