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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : South West : ... : The Devil's Slide (5.6 PG13)
By: Euan Cameron When: Feb 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you think you'd like to run the 1st and 2nd pitches together don't!! The rope drag on the slab is terrible, and if you only have a 50m rope it won't reach. I tried it and was forced to down-climb a very nervous 80 ft of polished slab with only one piece of gear to get to the belay (it would have been easier to solo the thing).
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Sad Boulders : ... : Hot Pants (V5+)
By: Euan Cameron When: Feb 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem isn't very long, but it has the habit of really taking it out of you as you desperately pull through the sloper. This makes V5 feel hard, unless you know the beta...
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Sagehen Summit Area : Granite Basin : ... : Hair Raiser Buttress (5.9 R)
By: Euan Cameron When: Feb 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anytime a bolt is added or chopped there is an issue. To me its simple. If the style of the first ascent fits the area, leave as is - there is no need to change it.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Scotland : Lowland Outcrops : ... : The Gellet
By: Euan Cameron When: Jan 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Access was a real issue a few years ago, but more recently it doesn't seem to be that much of a problem.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Scotland : Lowland Outcrops : ... : Photo
By: Euan Cameron When: Jan 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was told that the rings used to hold a large flagpole. Now you can use them as fixed gear on Dead Ringer.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Sad Boulders : ... : Water Colors (V6)
By: Euan Cameron When: Jan 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: It may be short, but the move is still a good one.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Sad Boulders : ... : Shop Till You Drop (V1 PG13)
By: Euan Cameron When: Jan 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: As you stand below this and look up you'll be amazed to see all the chalk that is present on the large loose flakes - scary!
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Wales : Snowdonia : ... : Vector Buttress
By: Euan Cameron When: Dec 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here is a good video of an onsight attempt at Strawberries (5.13a), something that hardly ever happens.
Strawberries Onsight
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Sad Boulders : ... : Strength in Numbers (Origin... (V5)
By: Euan Cameron When: Dec 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great route with no one move being that hard, but the combination makes for a good problem.
Easier than Molly.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... : Sad Boulders : ... : Molly (V5)
By: Euan Cameron When: Dec 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes the crimp at the bottom of the sidepull and small edges for the feet make it easier to gain the crimp below the top.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : Northumberland : ... : The Weird Sisters Three (V6)
By: Euan Cameron When: Dec 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tricky one to grade. If you are over 6' you'll find it no harder than V4 since there is a good crimp to reach. Under that size the crimps are much smaller and worth the grade.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : Northumberland : ... : Albatross (V7)
By: Euan Cameron When: Dec 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The flake used by the left hand to reach the good hold under the roof has recently broken, making the move a bit harder. The remaining hold doesn't feel too solid either...
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : Yorkshire : ... : Holly Tree Scoop (5.2)
By: Euan Cameron When: Dec 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The wide crack on the left provides a slightly harder (5.3) finish.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Sherwin Plateau : Pocketopia : ... : The Todd Daniels Low Traver... (V5-)
By: Euan Cameron When: Nov 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one problem where height matters. The smaller you are the easier it is.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Plantation Bouldering
By: Euan Cameron When: Nov 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Video of Brat Pitt and Careless Torque.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Monkey Wall
By: Euan Cameron When: Nov 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good video showing a number of the classic boulder problems on this buttress.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : Yorkshire : ... : The Cow
By: Euan Cameron When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here is James Pearson working the hardest route at Ilkley, Gerty Berwick 5.14a R/X, (E9, 7a),
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : Yorkshire : Caley Crags
By: Euan Cameron When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Check out the video of Andy Earl on High Fidelity (V13)
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Sherwin Plateau : Pocketopia : ... : Transcendent Melancholia (V4+)
By: Euan Cameron When: Nov 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you treat the sidepull as a pure sidepull you'll find this desperate for the grade!
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Sherwin Plateau : Pocketopia : ... : Rodeo Clown (V0)
By: Euan Cameron When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Much better, and easier, than it looks from first inspection.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Sherwin Plateau : Pocketopia : ... : Dr. Mofesto (V3+)
By: Euan Cameron When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great crimpy moves, unlike the rest of the problem around here.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Sherwin Plateau : Pocketopia : ... : Defcon 5 (V0+)
By: Euan Cameron When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tricky to grade 'cause its pretty easy apart from one move near the top.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Sherwin Plateau : Pocketopia : ... : There's a Bullet in My Hear... (V0)
By: Euan Cameron When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On of the poorer problems here. Watch out for the bad rock at mid height - don't go grabbing pockets in a panic...
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Sherwin Plateau : Pocketopia : ... : Fire in My Heart (V0+)
By: Euan Cameron When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun varied problem on good rock.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Sherwin Plateau : Pocketopia : ... : Tombstone (V1+)
By: Euan Cameron When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beware the large creaking hold as you pass the roof!
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