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Member Since: May 28, 2002
Last Visit: Jul 16, 2010
Contact Errett Allen


Point Rank: # 1,816
Total Points: 320
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24 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 99 | Routes 9 | Areas 2 | Photos 33 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts | Stars 17 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Catch and Release Crag aka ...
By: Errett Allen When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: Did these routes 9 years ago and put in the toprope bolts. We called it the Catch and Release crag. Route 5 is Release. Catch is between 4 and 5 in the photo - 10a. Also there's another top rope around the corner to the right of Release -- look for a short steep thin crack/flake immediately right of an outside corner. A small arete 30 feet to the right of this one now has 2 new face climbs. Cast In Stone, 10+, 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, and Dry Fly, 5.9, 2 bolts plus some gear to 2.5 inch. Shar... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery
By: Errett Allen When: Sep 12, 2005

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Comments: Unfortunately, camping at the Monastery seems anything but quiet and discreet lately. In general, I believe climbers respect the area and haven't observed an vandalism by them. But it seems to have become a place for weekend drinking binges for high school partiers, ATVers and other types of primordial life forms. Some people have even taken to chopping down live trees and feeding them whole into the disgusting trash loaded fire pits. There were at least 3 live trees chopped down and just left t... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Inner Peace (5.10b)
By: Errett Allen When: Sep 12, 2005

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Comments: This route is both a bit steeper and a bit harder than Wes Bound. If Wes Bound is 5.10a, this route deserves a 5.10b rating. One of the best quality routes I've done at the Monastery.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : The Guillotine (5.10c)
By: Errett Allen When: Oct 20, 2004

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Comments: We did a nice alternate to the 5.7 'Guillotine' pitch. From the bottom of the Guillotine recess, go down and left to the start of an obvious short chimney. 1. Acend this (5.8) and scramble up to a broken ledge. 2. From the high point of the ledge, step up and hand traverse right on a perfect flake to a perfect vertical hand crack (5.7). This pitch is very clean and high quality.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Betwixt'em (5.9)
By: Errett Allen When: Sep 7, 2004

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Comments: A great and very seldom traveled alternative to Mainliner or Sidetrack. It's a bit dirtier than those routes due to lack of traffic, but the climbing is steep, interesting and on very high quality rock with good pro. See attached photos for route finding beta on the 5.9 second pitch. The 5.6 third pitch is easy but high quality and puts you right at the base of Sidetracks upper crux pitch, which is a great way to finish up this route.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Pseudo Wallet Eater (5.9)
By: Errett Allen When: Aug 20, 2004

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Comments: The right hand third pitch variation mentioned is quite good and goes at 5.9. Then you can follow the George's Tree finish to the top.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Red Wall (5.10)
By: Errett Allen When: Aug 18, 2004

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Comments: The "death flake" on pitch 3 will probably still be there in a thousand years. Two thousand if I hadn't jumped up and down on it for an hour.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Sidetrack (5.9)
By: Errett Allen When: Jul 13, 2004

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Comments: Better than Mainliner -- just as high quality but more sustained. Must do on Sundance. Pitch 5 is gorgeous and wild.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Root of All Evil (5.9+)
By: Errett Allen When: Jun 14, 2004

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Comments: The diagonal face climbing mentioned on pitch 2 involves a [mandatory] 60 foot runout -- better be solid on easy (5.5/6) slab. A quicker way off after pitch 3 is to do some easy slab diagonally up/right which puts you low on the east ridge and quickly into the east descent gully.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Star Trek (5.10a X)
By: Errett Allen When: Oct 20, 2003

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Comments: Did this route recently with the original first pitch. The first pitch has an old and extremely manky bolt -- quarter inch screw top rawl split shank with a very rusty Leeper hanger. Also looks like it took falls which bent the bolt head. This bolt was intended to protect a 25 foot section of offwidth crack above it. Today with modern wide cams, a leader could get adequate protection on this section which makes the bolt obsolete. Also on the upper half of this wide crack there is an inside crack... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Whole Thing (5.10 R)
By: Errett Allen When: Oct 20, 2003

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Comments: Definitely a sandbag at 10a. The roof feels more like 10b/c. I also agree about the 10a rating on pitch 2, though the guidebooks say 5.9+ (ah, such a fine all-purpose rating). The second pitch protects very well with TCUs and medium to small (i.e.: non-RP) stoppers. I don't believe I used a single RP on it though I'm sure you could use them.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Loose Ends (5.9)
By: Errett Allen When: Oct 17, 2003

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Comments: A variation to the third pitch is to go a bit less than halfway up the leaning dihedral, then traverse left across slab about 20-25 feet under a small overlap to a straight in, straight up crack. Then follow this crack (1 to 4 inch pro) back to the final few lieback moves in the leaning dihedral. Probably 5.9 also and good quality climbing.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Old Bolt Route (5.8- PG13)
By: Errett Allen When: Sep 8, 2003

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Comments: Don't expect to find 4-5 bolts on this route -- there are only 3.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Diagonal (5.9)
By: Errett Allen When: Sep 8, 2003

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Comments: You can rappel with one rope from the bolt anchors on the first pitch by either rapping to the tree on the Tree Roof and then doing another short rap, or by rapping straight down to the end of your ropes and doing some easy downclimbing in a left facing dihedral/ramp.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Fantasy Ridge (5.9 PG13)
By: Errett Allen When: Apr 21, 2003

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Comments: The old bolt on pitch 2 has been replaced with a 3/8 X 2.25 inch Rawl 5-piece with Metolius hanger. Also, the crack on pitch 4 is *NOT* overhanging.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Christmas Crag : Tree Crack (5.5)
By: Errett Allen When: Oct 22, 2002

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Comments: Did this route in one pitch no problem with a 60 meter rope. Just used some long runners where we turned the corner to traverse right. It did seem harder than 5.5 with the crux just below the tree.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Christmas Crag
By: Errett Allen When: Sep 30, 2002

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Comments: The approach is best done by skirting Fallen Down Crag on the east and then traversing west once you are above Fallen Down Crag. When hiking up the Batman Trail, keep a lookout to the right for a small rock duck. Leave the trail here and ascend directly up the slope (north) until a largish rock formation appears directly ahead of you -- this is Fallen Down Crag. Go right of the crag and ascend a gully until you can see Christmas Crag to the west, then turn left (west) to traverse to the crag. As... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Rock : Gobs of Blobs (5.7 R)
By: Errett Allen When: Sep 23, 2002

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Comments: Another good landmark for the start of this route is the route 'Hand Over Hand' -- a fairly obvious steep 5.7 crack that doesn't reach the ground. The start of both routes is the same and is the featured knobby face almost directly below the Hand Over Hand crack.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : East Side (5.8+)
By: Errett Allen When: Sep 16, 2002

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Comments: The rap anchor on top could use some maintenance. Right now its just two old ratty slings with a single steel locking link. Someone should take an extra triple length runner and link to fix it up. Better yet, a double bolt and chain rig would make things nice. One of the short rappels down the chimneys could also use an extra triple runner and lock-link.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear
By: Errett Allen When: Aug 19, 2002

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Comments: First time I did Chrome Plated, got caught in a raging snowstorm on the 4th pitch. I discovered you can easily get off the Pear by traversing left (west) to an obvious pine tree that is below the summit headwall. The ledge turns the corner to the right (north) at this tree. The pine often has rap slings on it, but just continue traversing straight north across blocks and ledges beyond it (third class -- some exposure) into the west descent gully.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Neko's Route (5.7)
By: Errett Allen When: Aug 13, 2002

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Comments: The "old quarter inch bolt" is actually a substantial looking hex machine head that is almost certainly 3/8" or bigger. Additionally it looks well placed and solid. Compared to the mank bolt on Root of All Evil, this one is a beaut -- much newer and would probably hold a big fall by a sumo wrestler. The only problem with it is that it is hard to see from below due to the rusty hanger. As you climb the face, make sure to parallel the dihedral of Chrome Plated which is about ten feet to the side a... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Endless Crack (5.9)
By: Errett Allen When: Aug 12, 2002

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Comments: The rest of this route is worthwhile and should be included in the description. Rather than stop at the slings mentioned as the top of pitch one, you can continue climbing 50 feet higher in the dihedral which allows you to belay on a big comfortable sandy ledge behind a large block. 2. From the sandy ledge, climb up and left across slab and disconnected cracks to an obvious straight-in fist crack. Ascend this crack, then climb left and up across a few disjointed cracks. Make a few easy face move... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Right Dihedral (5.9)
By: Errett Allen When: Aug 5, 2002

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Comments: With the exception of one black, oily-looking guano perch, the "dirty corner" at the bottom is actually quite clean and contains enjoyable climbing that is well protected and easy with one commiting (but moderate) move exiting the chimney to get established in the dihedral. Good route.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Backflip (5.8)
By: Errett Allen When: Jul 29, 2002

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Comments: The "absurdly thin and shallow crack" mentioned in the description of P4 is excellent climbing as good as the rest of the route. The guidebook topos show a fixed pin in this crack which is now gone, however you can sew it up with small stoppers.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Mainliner (5.9)
By: Errett Allen When: Jul 9, 2002

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Comments: You could do this climb without cams at all. I didn't even have to place the gear -- the cracks sucked the stoppers right off of my rack.


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