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Member Since: Aug 8, 2012
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 16 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts | Stars | Ratings

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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Photo
By: Ernie Moskovics When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: This thread is thriving on the ambiguity of the name 'Devil's Head' and the way the info is organized in this database. The route Tony refers to would probably be considered part of Jackson Creek, but there is no established dividing line between JC and DH as it is commonly known (the environs of the fire tower). The fact one rock is named DH down by the old JC campground confuses things even more. The only way to do a 6 pitch route near the fire tower would be to install anchors less than 1... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : C-Section : Peckerwood (5.10d)
By: Ernie Moskovics When: Feb 27, 2014

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Comments: Mike, you are correct. Dave and I did the FA of this route, and the name is a blend of a Fortner style route name and a ref to the Wood, ending up with something that reminded us of Fortner himself.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Ernie Moskovics When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: Interesting how before this guy sprays about the bolting job, he tries to dismiss the FA as possibly never having taken place - more than once. "Reportedly..."; "If Byrne freed it...".


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Basalt and Battery (5.10c)
By: Ernie Moskovics When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: FA: Dave Field and Martin Birch, I was only in on the 2nd ascent. "Basalt and Battery" is another classic name from Dave. We got a wire placement before the first bolt, if you bother to bring gear. We may have also used Lowe Balls up higher.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Winter Warmer (5.10d)
By: Ernie Moskovics When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: FA: Dave and Ziggy as indicated. We were lucky to snatch this line, there were like 4 drills spinning at NTM the day we installed it. Ken Trout was hot on our heels but got involved with a short route nearby instead. The tentative name was "Poached Trout" (Dave's brilliant suggestion), but we were into Young's Winter Warmer and actually drank some later to celebrate this rig. The bolt prorecting the runout above the roof was first tested by Tripp about a week later.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Apostrophe (5.11d)
By: Ernie Moskovics When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: FA: Dave Field, Ernie Moskovics and I think maybe Tripp Collins was in on this one - it had a tentative name "Pandora's Bosch" that Tripp coined but didn't stick.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Mud Shark (5.10d)
By: Ernie Moskovics When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: FA info is accurate. Dave Field was fond of lifting Zappa lines and song titles for route names (viz., 'Mud Shark of your mythology..."; "Apostrophe",) hence some of the names at this crag.
This was originally finished with a 20' traverse left to avoid the overhanging section, then back right and up the wall. Also, there is a wire placement to cover the moves to the first bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Pinch A Loaf (5.10b)
By: Ernie Moskovics When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: FA Dave Field and Ernie Moskovics. This was our first motorized drill installed route. Dave had the scam on a Bosch from the geotech outfit he worked for and kept it for weeks at a time. With a free drill, we felt it was our obligation to start putting in routes. The name comes from the fact that there was a inset chunk of rock in a crack at the start (which looked like a loaf of bread). I pinched it (and it promptly reefed), but it stayed put for a second, and the route had a name.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Crimpfest Wall : Dave's Dilemma (5.11a)
By: Ernie Moskovics When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: This route was our first (Dave Field and I) at DH, and Dave's last. A bolt has been added coming out from the roof, I believe. We used cams in a few spots as we were both allergic to drilling near cracks. The first bolt protects a tricky move above a bad landing, but no one is obliged to use it.

Dave's Dilemma was stay in Colorado or move to Calgary, which he did soon after.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Digital Tower : Beyond The Firetower (5.12d)
By: Ernie Moskovics When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: This line has good position, but the rock is friable. I have a key handhold in my library that came off about eight feet up this thing, be prepared to bring home a souvenir of your own.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Digital Tower : Jesus H. Cranker (5.12b)
By: Ernie Moskovics When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: Ha Ha - Jesus Hernandez; Boomer, that is a good one. The name of this rig is derived from a route in Big Cottonwood that used to be called JHCOB (for Jesus H. Christ On a Bicycle) back in the '70s. Nowadays they changed the name to "Jacob Wall" which is both PC and vaguely biblical at the same time.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Hole in the Wall : Protege (5.11d)
By: Ernie Moskovics When: Sep 15, 2012

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Comments: Head Crew notes:

Boomer (aka Rich Magill) was infamous for wandering off (with Burwick), sending a bunch of routes, then showing up after we were cooked from cleaning, drilling, and working moves, to grab the FA. This one, and "The Poacher" next door, are a tribute to his Zook Mastery.

Hail Boomer!


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Digital Tower : C++ (5.11c)
By: Ernie Moskovics When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: FA Ernie Moskovics and Tod Anderson, probably 1997. Story is, when Tod, Dave, and I first explored the East Valley of DH, we saw this line and I said, "it's the best thing in the draw". So, we TR'd it but did not link a key section on TR that day. Dave moved to Calgary, but Tzilla and I carried on, and the key was to stab and stem left for the setup to crimp the thin crack that leads up right through the crux. Tod insisted on adding a bolt on the flat wall going into the crux, so it may appe... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Mirror Wall : Ziggy Sells Out (5.11b)
By: Ernie Moskovics When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: FA Ernie Moskovics and Tzilla autumn 1998. This is a good route, and there is no loose rock whatsoever. A classic DH chickenhead licker, if there ever was one. Watch out going up over the roof, the sequence is tricky and crosses back on you. Have an alert belayer.

The name refers to my attitude towards the approach that was used on the other route on this wall by grid bolt ideology.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Project X Wall : Stemasaurus (5.12a/b)
By: Ernie Moskovics When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: FA: Spring, 1994 by Dave Field and Ernie Moskovics. This route was rap drilled and led by both of us. At the time, we gave it 11+. Maybe a hold broke off, remember this is Castlewood. That's the documentation for this route, sorry if somebody got spanked.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Java Dome : North Face : Hammerhead (5.10b R)
By: Ernie Moskovics When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: FA summer 1987 by John Bissell, Dave Field, and Ernie Moskovics (aka the Jersey Gnarlers BITD). You are right, Slim - this route was drilled on lead, actually onsight. We each took a turn at the sharp end to push the line up to the next drill stance. I drew the short straw and drilled the 3rd bolt from a hook, I recall resting my chin right on the slab - like a lizard - to try and see any minor divot or foothold to get in a bolt as I climbed up way past the second one. Soon after this, we swi... more >>