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Rapping off the Matron October, 2010


Member Since: Sep 28, 2010
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 353 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 14 | Page Improvements | Comments 31 | Posts 270 | Stars 34 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Playin' Hooky (5.8)
By: ErikaNW When: Jun 20, 2015

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Comments: Be cautious if trying to link P1/2 on a 60m as suggested above - I routinely link them with a 70m and only have about 15 ft of extra rope. I think you'll be pretty short on a true 60m.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Poker Face (5.9)
By: ErikaNW When: Jun 9, 2015

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Comments: The 1st bolt has been replaced on this route.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Waiting for Staircase 1-3 (5.8-)
By: ErikaNW When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: Just in case people get the idea it is safe to use a 60m rope on the 2nd of these routes (Kansas Honey) - it has its own anchor now (maybe it shared an anchor with Waiting on the Staircase when this description was originally posted) which is quite a bit higher than the 5.6 anchor.

It definitely requires a 70m - we just made it on stretch with our 70m. The information posted under the Kansas Honey description on this page is correct.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Rock Garden : Rocky Mountain Oysters (5.10a)
By: ErikaNW When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: The old angle hangers were replaced with modern hardware (bolts were good, 1 needed replacement) as part of the 2014 Penitente project weekend. Shared anchor with Buffalo Chips was also replaced.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Rock Garden : Buffalo Chips (5.9)
By: ErikaNW When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: This anchor was replaced as part of the 2014 Penitente project weekend.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Rock Garden : Copacetic (5.11b)
By: ErikaNW When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: This anchor was upgraded as part of the 2014 Penitente project weekend.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Rock Garden : Jugalicious (5.10a/b)
By: ErikaNW When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: The anchor and the bottom cold shut were replaced with modern hardware as part of the 2014 Penitente project weekend.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Rock Garden : Ninos y Viejos (5.9)
By: ErikaNW When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: This climb was re-bolted (including a new anchors) with modern hardware as part of the 2014 Penitente project weekend - no bolts were added to the existing ones.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : The Serpent (5.8)
By: ErikaNW When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: The mussy hooks at the anchor were missing their gates (open hooks) and were replaced with rap rings (part of the 2014 re-bolting project weekend).


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : How The West Was Won (5.9)
By: ErikaNW When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: The mussy hooks at the anchor were missing their gates (open hooks) and were replaced with rap rings (part of the 2014 re-bolting project weekend).


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : "Is Our Children Learning?" (5.9+)
By: ErikaNW When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: Really enjoyed this climb! Has a little bit of an adventurous feel to it and lots of variety. There is some loose rock after the rains - my leader pulled off a softball-sized handhold somewhere around the 4th (?) bolt - glad to be wearing a helmet. We discussed placing gear for the belay, but that first bolt is pretty easy to get to if you are comfortable at the grade.


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Mount Royal (near Frisco) : Royal Flush (5.9)
By: ErikaNW When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday and had a great time.

From the comments, we were expecting route finding to be a problem, but it was super easy using the original description (I was glad to have MP on my phone though so we could check it between pitches).

P11 was confusing - I initially tried going right for the 5.6 option, but didn't see any bolts, so ended up downclimbing and going straight up figuring protected 5.10 was preferable to soloing 5.6 for me, so I am not sure where I went wrong there.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cats vs. Dogs Wall : Stray Cat (5.8)
By: ErikaNW When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this on June 15 - the rock quality is very poor, think mud held together with kitty litter in places. Maybe it will clean up? Long runners helped to reduce rope drag - the route wanders a bit. I would skip this one and do the middle line, as it was much better/cleaner rock with funner climbing.


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Park View Dome : Hey Ranger! (5.5)
By: ErikaNW When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: We found slings on a tree to rap from when we did this route end of May/early June (per the Fixed Pin description). Major bushwhack down the steep gully from there with a lot of loose rock. From a glance at the mapsh it looks like it might be possible to walk off the back side of the next formation over (Ranch Hand)?


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : The Urban Alpine Crag
By: ErikaNW When: Dec 1, 2012

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Comments: Super fun crag - thanks, Lee, for the tour! You guys have done an amazing job here - small crag, but every line is good quality. False advertising on that approach though... took me way longer than 45 seconds!


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Fractured Fairytales (5.7)
By: ErikaNW When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: We felt this went much easier than 5.7 - I guess I'd give it 5.4 (my partner insists 5.2) and definitely not at all representative of the grade for the SPlatte. Expecting 5.7, I was underwhelmed with the climbing although the setting is beautiful. Go in expecting 5.3 low angle slab climbing, with some runout, and you won't be disappointed!

I think we noticed 2 missing hangers - 1 on P4 and 1 on P5.

The approach and descent trail are both well-cairned.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : MacCavity (5.10a)
By: ErikaNW When: Nov 17, 2012

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Comments: Thank you for the anchor replacement!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Wild Bore (5.7)
By: ErikaNW When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: Nice route and definitely worth doing. Still some loose rock in that band and a very hollow sounding flake higher up, so be careful. Thanks for putting these up, Luke (and Mark)!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Steve's Wild Turkey Day (5.7)
By: ErikaNW When: Sep 6, 2012

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Comments: Super fun route - also thought it was better than Wild Bore. I counted 10 bolts.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Photo
By: ErikaNW When: Aug 21, 2012

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Comments: Word is the nuts have been stripped off this anchor - so don't expect them if you are heading up.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Photo
By: ErikaNW When: Jul 19, 2012

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Comments: Darren,

The cord is attached to the quick\link with a figure 8, clove hitch to equalize the system, tied that off with a trucker's hitch to keep the clove from slipping, and backed up with a mule knot (can't see in the photo, but the mule is attached to the webbing with a biner also).


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Northeast Ridge (5.6)
By: ErikaNW When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: Super fun route. With the non existent snowpack this year the boulder field was pretty heinous with some interesting scrambling to clear the grassy rock band ledges. So basically it took us 2 hrs to hike the first 4 1/2 miles and 2 hrs to cover the last mile of boulders - not fun! Something to keep in mind for planning on a super dry year.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Northeast Ridge (5.6)
By: ErikaNW When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: Our group placed new webbing, added 2 nuts for backup, and a steel rap ring to the 1st rap station on July 15, 2012. We also added a nut to the 2nd rap station. There was a short rap to another station that we skipped, and the next station (on the south facing wall) was in good shape.

EDIT TO ADD: Have heard that the nuts we left on the 1st rap station have been bootied. Who strips gear from an alpine rap anchor? Poor form in my book.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : The Grendel : Exit Stage Right (5.8)
By: ErikaNW When: Jun 2, 2012

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Comments: Should have read Jeffeos comment prior to climbing this - instead was going off the bolt count of 9 + 2 which made us think we should keep going up the loose stuff to the right.

It should be 7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor (finish after the 3rd mantle as Jeffeos said).


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : The Grendel
By: ErikaNW When: Jun 2, 2012

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Comments: From the description 'keep an eye out for cairns', I thought the trail might be hard to find - quite the opposite. There are creative and artistically placed cairns that made the hike extra enjoyable! Thank you to the cairn builder....


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