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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Place in the Sun (5.8)
By: Erik Tullberg When: Nov 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also would vote to leave it. I lead the variation past the second bolt yesterday, but couldn't quite make the third (shaky legs and all). I agree with the 10a rating. I'd actually be a fan of an extra bolt between the second and third bolt... it's at least another 20' to that third bold and since it swings to the left a fall brings you across your rope line with a chance to get tripped up and do a header. I think we've had enough blood on the rocks this summer (see Re-thinking the Ethics :... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Haimovi Tower : Southeast Buttress (5.7)
By: Erik Tullberg When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: No worries, Nathan... it sounded more like a dying rabbit than a little girl ;) It was indeed great fun! Well, except for the whole knee thing, but that just made it interesting.
To add to Nathan's report, we were on the mountain before the sun hit the face (left camp at 6:30 and on the face about 7). We were protecting every pitch with no simul-climbing and so topped out about 12. From the last couple pitches we were racing weather and hit Stone Lake just as the first raindrops b... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Amphitheater : The Full Male Deal (5.10c)
By: Erik Tullberg When: Aug 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anybody put up that extra bolt? Any additional beta would be great. We hope to do this in the coming weeks.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : The Amphitheater : Climbing By The Brooks (5.8)
By: Erik Tullberg When: Aug 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area was quite wet this week. Be aware that if we have had rains, there could be a lot of water coming down from above. We did this route anyway since the main part of the route was pretty dry, but the anchors were wet and the rock was dampish. We had hoped that it would be dry and solid (as opposed to the sandstone at the Garden or Red Rock), but it wasn't dry.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : South Pipe Route (5.7+)
By: Erik Tullberg When: Aug 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just climbed this today with Nathan... watch out for the junky stuff toward the bottom. Also had a significant amount of pebbles coming down. Several "pull down not out" opportunities. One even crumbled under my foot.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Solar Slab : Up Until Sunrise (5.11b/c)
By: Erik Tullberg When: Aug 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, yes, I have climbed it... don't agree with the 12a. In fact, I'd say 11a. There's a tough pull just before the end, but no wild moves (unless that ear shaped foothold has broken off since last I climbed it 2 months ago). Besides, I can't climb 12a :)
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Outlets : Dam - Back Side : Better Than Pool and Pie (5.6)
By: Erik Tullberg When: Jul 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe I'm a wimp, but the face at the top doesn't appear to be bolted (couldn't find one) providing for at least a 30' runout. Sure, the climbing is easy, but who wants to chance a 60' fall even if it's highly unlikely. I hooked a horn for a little extra pro, but I didn't have any stoppers or cams with me to throw in the crack... so if you're wimpy like me, take up some cams and/or a little extra webbing (I used a shoulder length runner). If you don't want to risk the face, you can cut left b... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Whale : Undulating Dingo (5.8-)
By: Erik Tullberg When: Jul 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Okey Dokey :)
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Whale : Arapiles (5.9+)
By: Erik Tullberg When: Jul 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree. Will make the change.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Whale : Bound in Blood (5.8)
By: Erik Tullberg When: Jul 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Stewart. I was hoping that you'd see this. I'll make the change.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : The Whale : Bound in Blood (5.8)
By: Erik Tullberg When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would suggest 5.8 or 5.9 as the climb's actual rating, though the FA was judged a 10a.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Quarry Wall : In the Way (5.6)
By: Erik Tullberg When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the risk of saying "me too" we also used a cam to avoid that run-out feeling :) (we used a #1 Omega Pacific Link Cam). This was a good second pitch to Xenolith and it was great to top out to wonderful views. This seems to be the highest spot in the canyon if you don't count some of the coyote wall. The stone is great on the face as it seems like this route doesn't get much traffic.
2 stars for the climbing, plus one for the view.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : End to End (5.10a)
By: Erik Tullberg When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm glad that someone else noticed that it was sustained. Whew! I also agree about the TR... we did End of an Era and then TR'd End to End. Good thing, too. I would have had a few bruises.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : End of an Era (5.8+)
By: Erik Tullberg When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just climbed this last night. One of the new bolts and hanger are loose. The bolt is not bad, but it moves enough to deserve comment especially since because of the chain length, that bolt takes most of the weight on rappel.
- **note*** bolt has been tightened.
Still a great climb, especially with the direct start.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : Re-Thinking the Ethics (5.10a)
By: Erik Tullberg When: Jun 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once you've set the TR anchors, try the face route starting around the second birch tree. All you get are crimppers and 1/8" ledges. It's maybe 5.10 - really makes you trust your feet.
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