Point Rank: # 3,195
Total Points: 33
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
How do you get points?
| Areas are worth 15 |
| Routes are worth 10 |
| Photos are worth 5 |
| Comments are worth 1 |
Where has Erik Anderson been climbing?
| |
Contributions
| All (15) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (3) | Comments (8) | Posts | Stars (2) | Ratings (1) | |
Contributed Comments | | |
|---|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Ending Crack (5.7 PG13)
By: Erik Anderson When: Jul 9, 2007 | view comment >> | Comments: Thanks for the bolt clean-up! There's no need for any more bolts on Sespe! In fact, I was kind of surprised when the bolted rap stations went in a while back, but I guess they saved the trees.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Natural Rate of Unemploymen... (5.10+)
By: Erik Anderson When: Jun 1, 2007 | view comment >> | Comments: Until this route gets some ascents, or I forget how hot it can get up there and go back and do some cleaning, expect lichen, moss, and loose rock. If you aren’t into this sort of thing, don’t climb it for a year or so.
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge
By: Erik Anderson When: Apr 29, 2007 | view comment >> | Comments: About a month or two ago, as Matthew noted previously, there was only one shut left at the top of South of Trout Farm. Yesterday, when a friend and I stopped off there for a warm-up, we noted that someone had pounded the remaining shut closed and that bolt was very loose in the hole. I headed back up there early this morning hoping to over drill the existing holes and use the original anchor placements. This turned out not to be possible, as who ever had gone up and pounded the shut closed, h... more >>
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Permanent Income Hypothesis (5.9)
By: Erik Anderson When: Feb 4, 2007 | view comment >> | Comments: Interesting route! The climbing and position were fun and the route should get better as future ascent parties clean away some of the lichen and loose rock. Recommend a helmet and protected stance for the belayer until things clean up.
I noted evidence of two previous (pre-Permanent Income Hypothesis) ascents/attempts on the arete when my wife and I climbed it today. These included a rusty old bolt and hanger (70s era) that I had mistaken for a piton when I saw it from the ground some years b... more >>
|
Location: Matthew Fienup : Santa Barbara Anchor Replac... : Photo
By: Erik Anderson When: Jan 31, 2007 | view comment >> | Comments: I'm glad the bolt replacements were appreciated. The original buttonheads were a mixed bag. A couple of them came out like they were placed in butter, while a couple of others seemed like they would hold a truck still. The heads on the ones that came out easily looked as if they had only seen 1-2 light hammer blows on install, indicating they probably never bottomed out in the hole enough to expand properly.
Thanks,
Erik
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress
By: Erik Anderson When: Jan 31, 2007 | view comment >> | Comments: Hi Matthew,
I don't know anything about the two bolts on the small triangle in front. I do remember seeing evidence of other activity on the day I spent up there hand drilling (I hope I never get that urge again…).
At that time, the arete to the right of the climb I started had been climbed ( I think this is the same arête your route "Permanent Income Hypothesis" is on?). There was an old piton hammered in on the left of the arête about ½ to ¾ of the way up with a small piece of webbing han... more >>
|
Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress
By: Erik Anderson When: Jan 28, 2007 | view comment >> | Comments: "On one of the center-most formations, a line of bolts ends 1/3 up with a bail-ring (again these are hardware store bolts)."
I put those three bolts in about 10 years ago on lead with a hand drill. The black flies were so bad I never wanted to go back and finish. The bolts are actually Fixe 3/8 x 3.5 stainless steel wedge bolts...I wish I could have bought them at the "hardware store", it would have saved me some money. Anyway, it's an open project for anyone who likes flies! The route wil... more >>
|
Location: Matthew Fienup : Santa Barbara Anchor Replac... : Photo
By: Erik Anderson When: Jan 28, 2007 | view comment >> | Comments: Went to PJ to climb a few months back and found that some misguided good samaritan had pulled the first clip on both Ménage and Miccis …what the hell? Anyway after climbing both routes with the bolts missing, and thinking I liked it better when they were there, I pulled the remaining bolts, over drilled the original holes, and installed 3/8”x4” Rawls and new hangers. Both routes are bomber now.
|
| |
|
RSS Feed
