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North face of Ama Dablam - taken on approach to Kongma La.


Member Since: Mar 8, 2007
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Erik W


Point Rank: # 1,881
Total Points: 298
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 0
20 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Erik W been climbing?










Contributions


All 532 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 53 | Page Improvments | Comments 13 | Posts 460 | Stars 3 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Emerald Lake & vicinity : Steeplechase (5.5 M4 Easy Snow)
By: Erik W When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: Greg, thx for adding pics to the route. I'm 100% certain we were on different lines for that fist pitch as well, as there was zero sign of previous passage when we climbed it. No tool or crampon scratches anywhere, no cleared moss for hand jamming or placing pro... nada (and that moss completely clogged the crack in most places). There was the groove at the far back of the snow tongue which could possibly have been M3 (see topo), and so could jive with your route pic. I'm thinking we might ha... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: Erik W When: Jan 12, 2013

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Comments: I have to say, those hand placed sawed-offs were far more secure than the cams that I tried in the same spot seconds before. Seriously, there's nothing like monkeying about with a cam or tricam in a placement only to remember you have that sawed-off in your back pocket. Key-in-lock, repeat. Also less damaging to the Fisher sandstone than a bounce-tested tricam, IMHO. No doubt, iron makes for a heavier approach, but it sped up that pod section significantly and tamed it by a half a grade at l... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: Erik W When: Apr 1, 2012

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Comments: Did the route in a day yesterday, and thought I'd post up some additional beta while it's all still fresh in my branium. In addition to the standard gear, we brought a couple large angles for hand placing... def helped thru the crux pitches. Specifically used sawed-off 1.5", sawed-off 1.25" a 2" bong, and a 3" bong. Those pieces were money. Also brought #4.5 camalot and a #6. If I went to climb it again, this would be my rack:

2 sets camalots Green C3 - #4 C4
2 sets off-se... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Pencil & Eraser area aka Be... : Esmerelda (WI4 M6-7)
By: Erik W When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: As of 11/20/11, 3rd bolt is ready to pull out of the rock... looks ugly... and since it faces downward, I wouldn't push it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : White Tank Campground : Photo
By: Erik W When: Jan 11, 2011

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Comments: Great shot. I loved seeing wildlife in Jtree when I climbed out there regularly - rattlers, road-runners, coyotes, tarantulas, big horn sheep, even saw a bobcat once. Never saw a tortoise though, so I really dig this pic. Great angle.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Erik W When: Sep 27, 2010

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Comments: I agree w/David above, definitely feel the crux on p2 is technically harder than that of p1 - especially how polished it's gotten. I'll lead p1 again, but have yet felt comfortable enough on that section of p2 to take it on. Interestingly, one time while seconding I got suckered into those huecos right of the p2 crux, couldn't get back into the route because the step across was too slick, and instead headed right and then up and across. Nice option, but no pro to speak of and the rock is susp... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Erik W When: Nov 11, 2009

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Comments: Climbed with Avery N. this past Saturday (11/7/09) in 4 pitches (P1+P2, P3, P4, P5). Contrary to topo above, P3 (crux pitch) requires some free moves here and there, as does P4 (roof/capstone pitch). Partner used a hook on crux sequence - I think without it you're turning around and heading back down.

Gear recommendations:
-set camalots .5-4
-extra #2 and #3
-set tricams
-set offset aliens (helpful, but not a deal breaker if you don't have them)
-4 or 5 offset nuts (large ones, ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice : ... : Photo
By: Erik W When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: Ah yes, what a fun anchor that was to build. HB offsets helped, but most all of the rock there was suspect.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: Erik W When: May 29, 2009

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Comments: The upper crux would be 9+/10a any place outside of Eldo, let's be real here. It's a fun climb and I enjoyed it, no doubt, but calling this a 5.8 is just plain wrong. For people going up to do the Edge, no problem, they're strong 11- climbers at the least, so a sandbagged 8 isn't too big a deal. But if you're just getting into 9s or breaking into 10a climbs, this thing will put a serious WTF expression on your face toot sweet. A fun route nonetheless.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Northwest Corner (5.11a)
By: Erik W When: May 19, 2009

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Comments: Currently there's a family of wasps living behind the flake holding the first fixed pin on p3 - made for quite the surprise when I went to clip it (for them and me). Made a hasty downclimb to the ledge in full Kung Fu defensive stance. We opted to finish the climb via the final pitch of West Buttress.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Photo
By: Erik W When: May 13, 2009

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Comments: Truly a phenomenal pic.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Ginseng Junkie (5.10a)
By: Erik W When: Apr 23, 2009

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Comments: With a 60m rope you can summit in one pitch from the top of P2 on Gambit (making for a stellar 2 pitch climb of Shirt Tail Peak). Crux felt more like 5.9/5.9+ than a typical Eldo 10a. We took the first traverse after the crux to meet up with the Tiger Balm Arete and followed it straight to the top. Bring plenty of shoulder length slings to keep rope drag manageable. Highly recommended.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Wham Couloir (M4 Easy Snow)
By: Erik W When: Mar 15, 2009

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Comments: Climbed via the left hand start yesterday. Fun route. We opted for the walk-off, but once in the trees, instead of bending back toward the Andrews Creek drainage, we skirted east when possible, across shelves, aiming straight for the shoreline of Loch Vale. It made for a much faster descent and chopped off a lot of distance on the hike out. [We left a pin on P1 which we planned on retrieving on the rap, but since we opted for the walk-off, it is still there. If anyone grabs it, I'll buy you... more >>