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Member Since: Nov 20, 2008
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact Erik S. Gillis

Point Rank: # 4,649
Total Points: 121
Last Year: 20
Last 30 Days: 0
12 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Erik S. Gillis been climbing?










Contributions


All 135 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 8 | Page Improvements | Comments 31 | Posts 3 | Stars 49 | Ratings 39
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Four Deep In The Hoopti

5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 50'

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Chadbourne Crag

Sep 10, 2015

137 lbs of Fury (FA)

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R (3)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

UT : Wasatch Range : Farmington Crag

Jun 23, 2010

Ryan in a Bikini (FA)

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c (3)

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'

UT : Wasatch Range : Farmington Crag

Jun 10, 2010

Dazed and Refused

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Bolt Slab

Oct 11, 2009

All Chalk And No Action

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a (84)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Green Adjective Gully

Sep 17, 2005

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting through the mid V5 crux.

Getting through the mid V5 crux.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : This Must Be The Pickle (5.13a)

Sep 15, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: The crux.  Scary as hell, even with gear.

The crux. Scary as hell, even with gear.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Monolith (Easy 5th V-easy)

Jan 24, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: the pumpy finsh

the pumpy finsh

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Crack of Doom (5.11c)

Sep 8, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: the cruxy start.

the cruxy start.

ID : City of Rocks : ... : Crack of Doom (5.11c)

Sep 8, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: last move to the third bolt, after that it is all ...

last move to the third bolt, after that it is all pretty straightforward.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a)

Mar 19, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: pulling the cruxy start

pulling the cruxy start

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a)

Mar 19, 2009

Rock Climbing Photo: I love this place.

I love this place.

UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon

Nov 26, 2008

Rock Climbing Photo: Me on the 5-10 start.  Protected by a orange metol...

Me on the 5-10 start. Protected by a orange metolius half in the crack half out. Pretty manky.

UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Green Adjective (5.9+)

Nov 20, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Billboard Trail : The Billboard : Small Change (5.11a)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Apr 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Not sure I would call this one run out. At most there is 10 ft in between bolts. The cruxes are well protected. I agree though, this one can be tricky at times.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bolt Slab : Dazed and Refused (5.11d)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Apr 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I was referring to not using holds on the arete to place gear from or climb on, not placing gear on the arete. Good luck finding gear placements anywhere other than the crack; it has been a while since I have been on it, but I don't remember finding other gear. Sorry that my original statement was confusing.

Also I wouldn't recommend climbing this route if you were coming straight out of the gym anyway, it requires some real thought and technical knowledge of gear placement or a gro... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Neff's Canyon : Chadbourne Crag : The Clam (5.12c)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Sep 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Stick clip this thing to the second bolt. That is where the crux is and it really is not worth it. Roof section is awesome on this one. Finish it on Piston Bully or, if you are feeling like an endurance champion, Four Deep In The Hoopti. Either of those variations deserve 4 stars for sure.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Causey Reservoir : Causey Reservoir Deep Water...
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The rock in the area is definitely limestone.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : White Pine Boulders : ... : Prowler (V7)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Aug 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I took a hard fall from the top on this one! Missed the pads and spotter but ending up rolling in a thorn bush. You might want 3-4 pads on this one. Just saying. That being said, amazing problem.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Grail : Vesper (5.12b)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Nov 17, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Pull some committing moves after the Hueco to a rewarding rest. The amazing slanting crack gets harder and harder as you climb up it till you get to the body position intensive crux at the lip. Amazing slopers, awesome crimps, and amazing position at the crux. Add the incredible stone and you have a super classic pitch of climbing! Only drawback is the hanging belay.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Weed B Gone (5.11c/d)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Nov 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The first pitch of weed be gone is a chossy mess, be careful what you grab. I have done this route several times. I noticed a hold broke off on the first roof. It makes it a little harder and in my opinion is the actual crux. There are two ways to do this roof, directly up the bolt line(harder but more straightforward) or in the crack(easier but awkward). The first way is the most fun and checks out at as a V3 boulder problem. BETA after the piton on the second pitch (don't clip it, it is wiggli... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : The Nerve (5.11a)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Oct 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I felt like the first pitch warrants an R rating if you don't have an extra knifeblade/lost arrow around. Entering the dihedral has a dicey 10C ish move, but if you make it through it you get rewarded with a good stance and good gear. I ended up placing a .3/.4 offset x4 just entering the dihedral that maybe would have held a long leader fall, it did hold my partner when he took a 10 ft leader fall. In the end we gave up and did the first pitch of Beckys and toproped the first pitch of the Nerv... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : West Bell Tower : Beckey Route (5.9 R)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Oct 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I really liked the first pitch, which was all we had time for. Is it R, i guess not if you trust the fixed bashie( which I didn't). Even then it is not too bad, maybe PG13, the crux is over quick and you are not going to take a ground fall. I didn't clip the bolts( which are awesome Fred Becky relics I bet) because there is a perfect cam placement right by them. The first pitch would be a good way to avoid the 5.11/10c R pitch of The Nerve.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : Cliffs of Insanity : Bark (5.11b/c)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jul 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Committing! The whole thing has lichen and moss on it, otherwise this would be a pretty nice climb. It has very technical movement on a steep arete and then a difficult move past the bulge.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Neff's Canyon : Chadbourne Crag : Piston Bully (5.12b)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Jun 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Next to the last bolt, looking to climbers right, there is a huge hollow flake that is about to come down. If you are climbing this don't use it, as tempting as that is. Go straight up from the second to last bolt, there are pockets to the left and you can stem into a nice stance to clip the chains. This is one of my all time favorite 12's in the Wasatch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Black and White John and Ma... (5.10c)
By: Erik S. Gillis When: Oct 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great route. The original start and finish make for an epic lead! However, We spent some time today sussing out the beta to the 11 start and 11 finish and I have to say, if you do the route this way it is simply amazing, I would say the best climb I have done in LCC. The gear is there, except for some spice in the beginning, but it is hard to place. Can you say sustained?!!


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