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Erik on Demise of Mr. Riffraff, near the top.  Photo by Jer Collins.


Member Since: Dec 18, 2006
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Erik Pohlman


Point Rank: # 84
Total Points: 4,338
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Erik Pohlman been climbing?










Contributions


All 1355 | Routes 258 | Areas 79 | Photos 108 | Page Improvments | Comments 28 | Posts 45 | Stars 550 | Ratings 287
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MO : Trapper's Camp : Pontoon Wall : Vegas Exodus (5.11c)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Apr 14, 2012

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Comments: Sweet!!! Now I have to come back and send this thing again. One of my favorite MO routes.


Location: MO : Warsaw : The Washboard Area : Warrior Poet (5.12a)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Apr 14, 2012

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Comments: BETA ALERT!!!!!




It's not sustained at all. It's pretty much a 5.9 to a 10' crux section at the end. It's good moves, but not a super classic for the area, in my opinion.


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Pump Station : Upper Section (5.8)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Mar 28, 2012

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Comments: From the break, it looks like you could head into the next dihedral L for a 5.7 with a bush in it or to the R for a 5.6 thinner crack.


Location: MO : Warsaw
By: Erik Pohlman When: May 31, 2011

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Comments: The Access Fund would be a great resource for information in this matter.

As I understand it, there is a certain right-of-way around all major waterways in MO that are under the jurisdiction of the Corps of Engineers, and they have always been accepting of climbing. Last I heard, they 'owned' the actual Warsaw crags.

The approach has always been owned by the golf course and they have always been accepting of us, especially those who didnt block the old gate and that were out of their parking ... more >>


Location: MO : Warsaw
By: Erik Pohlman When: Apr 14, 2011

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Comments: I have always thought maybe between Z crack and Dubble Undercling may lie a 13 of some sort, but JerCollins would have the best perspective on this, I think.


Location: MO : Warsaw : Funhouse Alcove : Bottom Rocket (5.8 PG13)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Mar 31, 2011

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Comments: Pocket Rocket is a short, steep route that sets off from the anchors of Bottom Rocket. It is mid 11 to the next anchors. If you top out, it has been suggested to be around 12a, I think.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Valley of The Blind
By: Erik Pohlman When: Dec 10, 2010

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Comments: PLEASE NOTE!!!
It is NOT considered proper to hang permanent draws or chains in this area, especially on already established climbs. It is also STRONGLY discouraged on new lines that go up.


Location: AR
By: Erik Pohlman When: Dec 10, 2010

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Comments: From Tony Mayse, originally on the Flying Elvis page:

With permission from my friend Chad I post this message.

Dear friends,

If you are not aware, there's a bit of a controversy brewing in the Arkansas climbing community. The central issue is that some climbers are putting fixed chains on routes that were previously established without such niceties. By fixed chains, I'm referring to 10 inches of heavy chain link attached permanently to the bolt hangar on one end and to a carabiner on the t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : Right Gully
By: Erik Pohlman When: Nov 23, 2009

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Comments: Please be careful walking around in this gully, especially if people are on routes lower down. A party up on the ledge below Vasodilator knocked a huge block down, which was funneled right towards my belayer. Thank you to the guy who jumped in front of it. Hope your leg is doing better.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East : Filthy Sanchez (5.11c)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Oct 16, 2009

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Comments: It was a bit fluffy, as were many of the routes at HCR.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Blood Diamond (5.11c)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Oct 4, 2009

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Comments: This felt a little soft for 11d, which is the rating from the book. Also, it seems like it doesn't get climbed that often, as there is a bit of lichen in the crux.


Location: MO : Trapper's Camp
By: Erik Pohlman When: Aug 5, 2009

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Comments: "The bluffs face west and don't have much shade in the afternoon. All seasons are good, but fall is best." If climbing here in the summer, start at sunrise and climb until the sunlight hits the shore. If you hurry, you will have just enough time to get out before the sun blazes down on you.


Location: MO : Trapper's Camp : Stealth Wall : Enter the Dragon (5.11a)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Aug 5, 2009

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Comments: 11a is the traditional rating for this, but it is more in the 10+ range. It may have been harder at some point, but our routes in Missouri tend to change yearly as hold break off, sometimes getting harder, sometimes getting easier. Also, a small number of Trapper's routes are known to be a bit fluffy.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Goat Cave : Man Junk (5.12b)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Nov 4, 2008

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Comments: All draws were fixed and there were cold shuts as of 11-2-08. Stickclipping is nice, too.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Goat Cave : Ride the Short Bus (5.12b)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Nov 2, 2008

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Comments: For those who don't want to campus or dyno at the start, a foot jam can be had above the head in the crack. Pull up to the sidepull, drop the feet back to the right, and layback up in the dihedral to the jug and the ledge above.

Just to not alarm an unsupecting climber, there were no fixed anchors on 11-2-08, so jump off or bring gear to thread your rope.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Goat Cave : Austrian Ass Attack (5.12a)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Nov 2, 2008

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Comments: All draws are fixed now. Cold shut anchors.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Prophecy Wall : Taliban soup (5.11)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Nov 2, 2008

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Comments: All draws are fixed on this route now.


Location: MO : Cliff Drive : The Overhang : Chomping the Bit (5.10a)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Oct 30, 2008

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Comments: As of 10-30-08, the old rusty aid bolt is no longer on the route. No more aiding through the crux. That's ok, though, because now with the fixed draws, you can lower off the 3rd bolt if you can't pull through.


Location: MO : Swope Park Bouldering : Swope Boulders : The Schoolroom : Peter Pan in a Porn Star (V2)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Aug 16, 2008

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Comments: Only V1 if you use the crimpy holds inside the crack.


Location: MO : Cliff Drive : The Overhang : Chomping the Bit (5.10a)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Aug 2, 2008

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Comments: A key hold on the left variation at the top, much to the amusement of some, has broken off.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : The Outback : Warrior Wall & Last Chance ... : Secret Weapon (5.10b/c)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Apr 29, 2008

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Comments: My buddy Steve climbed this a week or two ago and thought it felt harder than my suggested 9+. Maybe that hold I pulled off at the anchors was pretty crucial, cause he couldn't clip them. Due to this and the new guidebook, I have updated the rating to 10b/c.


Location: MO : Trapper's Camp : Pontoon Wall : Vegas Exodus (5.11c)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Jan 30, 2008

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Comments: Above the last roof, it can get a little bushy in the summer. This route is aging pretty well. I just did it again after 3 or four years and it doesn't seem like any holds have come off. Such a sweet route!


Location: MO : Trapper's Camp : Stealth Wall
By: Erik Pohlman When: Dec 22, 2007

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Comments: CAUTION!!!
Just left of New Directions used to be an excellent slab climb called Ginsu that pulled a small roof. This roof came off (you'll notice a light colored section where it used to be and a roof above that is larger than the old one). Ginsu's bolts were pulled, all except the first one.

DON'T TRY TO LEAD THIS!!!


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : Sonny Jim (5.11b)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Oct 24, 2007

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Comments: This is a little easier if you cheat out right low on the route, maybe around the 2nd bolt. It just seemed a little out of the way to still be on the route.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : summer rain (5.7)
By: Erik Pohlman When: Jun 24, 2007

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Comments: Where is this route? If you are going to contribute, please add enough information so people can find the route.


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