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Rock Climbing Photo: i crushed this roof on the next go.


Member Since: Oct 15, 2009
Last Visit: Aug 15, 2016
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ericcr
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Total Points: 50
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 224 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts 1 | Stars 198 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Lakeview

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c (4)

Trad, 2 pitches, 140'

NY : The Gunks : Sky Top

Nov 26, 2014

V.D.

5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 (4)

Trad, 1 pitch, 75'

NY : The Gunks : ... : l. Sleepy Hollow

Sep 27, 2011

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: super techy slab

super techy slab

The People of Mountain Proj... : ericcr : pro hardman

May 24, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: working out some new beta

working out some new beta

The People of Mountain Proj... : ericcr : pro hardman

May 24, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: i crushed this roof on the next go.

i crushed this roof on the next go.

The People of Mountain Proj... : ericcr : pro hardman

May 23, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7)
By: ericcr When: Apr 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The approach is pretty straightforward and well cairned, especially with its proximity to the other well-traveled routes to the south.

There are a few runouts as noted here, but nothing too horrific, and large sections of the climbing are incredibly cruiser. Parts of Pitch 5 felt awkward, but generally the holds are large and right where they are wanted.

The descent off the top has one big step down, but again with good cairns it is perfectly reasonable.


At the top of P1 we built a belay ab... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : La Selva (Jungle Wall) : Yankee Clipper (5.12a)
By: ericcr When: Jan 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: great constructive comment, "caughtinside." that'll definitely help the gapers that try to get up this thing, like the infamous JS.


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Telendos Island : South Face : ... : Wings for Life (5.10a)
By: ericcr When: Nov 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: mid-size day. the climbing is very easy except for a handful of moves. the approach is straightforward, especially if you charter a boat to the coast near the base (probably worth it.) the descent is also easy from a route-finding standpoint, although very long.

maybe not why you come to kalymnos, but if you're looking to get way off the ground and have a good view, well worth it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: ericcr When: May 25, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: i wish that Dennis would pay as much attention to how he clips his ancient carabiners as he pays to coordinating his climber's outerwear.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: ericcr When: May 24, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: you're right, slim. if a leader at his limit were to fall on that piece, that carabiner would snap like a pretzel.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6) : Photo
By: ericcr When: May 17, 2012

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Comments: greatness begins


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Ventre de Boeuf (5.9 PG13)
By: ericcr When: Apr 18, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: awesome route. fun, aesthetic, energetic climbing.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Absurdland (5.8) : Photo
By: ericcr When: Apr 12, 2012

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Comments: great job tricia!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Last Frontier (5.10b/c)
By: ericcr When: Nov 7, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: atypical movement.

there is sometimes an anchor 40' up around a chockstone/pinch, but it comes and goes. there is a tree another 30' up dirty, easy climbing that also sometimes has an anchor.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : 10,000 Restless Virgins (5.10d) : Photo
By: ericcr When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: you didn't even need the gear beta.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Yellow Ridge (5.7)
By: ericcr When: Oct 23, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: no move on the corner start may be harder than 5.7, but you do place your gear from unpleasant stances. (there is plenty of it. totally G.)

i mistakenly led the offwidth with my right leg jammed. i found this to be strenuous, secure, and difficult to get out of at the top. i agree with dolgio's assessment that (if you want to offwidth it), the left side in may be more... fun?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: ericcr When: Sep 6, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: the beta available is pretty accurate and if you use your brain the climbing is logical and the protection reasonable. (the runouts are real but easy, as everyone notes, and the cruxes have pro.)

we found the approach to be tricky. not being a yosemite local, i contemplated crossing dicey slabs way too many times. ("should this look like third class to me??") all we lost was time- so i will say this:

when the supertopo approach beta says "pretty much walk straight towards the face of half dome... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : 10,000 Restless Virgins (5.10d)
By: ericcr When: Sep 6, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: how can this route's amazingness be properly quantified?

the climbing is difficult, continuous, aesthetic, and varied. it is well protected. the location is unique and pretty, and the route is rarely crowded.

how lucky were those guys to show up in the 80s and find this thing unclimbed.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Miss Bailey (5.6 PG13)
By: ericcr When: Sep 2, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: an incredible hidden gem, a good standby if you're trying to climb in this area on a crowded weekend. the chimney is much less of an ordeal than it looks. before you begin climbing it you scramble up ten feet or so, and end up on another ledge- so what looks like a horrid runout from the bottom is already shorter. the first part is the hardest, you get footholds and eventually a jug rail.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : Wegetables I've Never Seen ... (5.10a)
By: ericcr When: Sep 2, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: the opening moves are pretty safe with a good spot, as well. if your belayer stands on top of the block near the base, their hands are at your knees when you start that sequence.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Gunks: Perfect TensEastern StatesericcrApr 12, 2012

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Wegetables I've Never Seen Before 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

NY : The Gunks : ... : l. Sleepy Hollow

The Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1

UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress

Miss Bailey 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

NY : The Gunks : ... : b. Jackie and friends

10,000 Restless Virgins 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

NY : The Gunks : ... : l. Sleepy Hollow

Snake Dike 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Half Dome

Simple Suff 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

NY : The Gunks : ... : k. The Slime Wall

Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Strictly From Nowhere 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...

Arrow 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Star Action 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

NY : The Gunks : ... : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

Something Interesting 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

Slim Pickins 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

NY : Adirondacks : ... : The Spider's Web

Yellow Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge...

Gelsa 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge...

CCK Direct 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Time Wave Zero 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

North America : Mexico : ... : Time Wave Buttress

Space Boyz 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

North America : Mexico : ... : La Selva (Jungle Wall)

Royal Arches 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Royal Arches

Horseman 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Directissima 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

High Exposure 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

Erect Direction 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

NY : The Gunks : ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Bonnie's Roof 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NY : The Gunks : ... : i. High E

MF 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NY : The Gunks : ... : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...

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