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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Debutante's Ball (5.11)
By: eric whewell When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the worst routes (I have done) in the Black.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Shune's Buttress (5.11+)
By: eric whewell When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The wide pitch was hard, the anchor at the top of the route seemed marginal as I recall it being equalized shrubs. Absolutely classic climb, not to be missed!
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Medicine Man (5.12b)
By: eric whewell When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There was no fixed gear on this route as of October 2009. I recall placing maybe 6 #1 Camalots on the crux and a #2. I also found it hard to find a worthwhile "kneebar" before the crux. Pretty soft for .12b, more like 11+. Great tower route nonetheless!
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Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Bone Collector aka Bone Cru... (5.12b/c)
By: eric whewell When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I brought 2 (0.3), 1 yellow c3, 3 (0.4), 3 (0.5), 3 (0.75) Camalots. This seemed to be an adequate amount at least on the redpoint. I didn't feel this route was quite as sustained as many Indian Creek .12s, but there are actually 5.12 moves on this route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Bad Cat (5.12b)
By: eric whewell When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you can campus on finger locks than the first 30 feet should be cruiser! A super pumpy and stellar route with good rests between the cruxes.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Wild Cat (5.11+)
By: eric whewell When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route felt harder to me than Slice N' Dice at Way Rambo and definitely harder than Johnny Cat. Pretty burly at .11+!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Death and Transfiguration (5.11b)
By: eric whewell When: Jul 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic climbing! Right now, there is a long cordellete extension from the bolts reaching down to the top out of D&T.
While there are no stopper moves on this route, it definitely warrants the .11b rating. Its steep, sustained, and pumpy. It's just as strenuous as anything on the Naked Edge.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : I'd Rather Be In Philadelph... (5.12)
By: eric whewell When: Jul 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first half of this route is stellar, pretty much up to the crux, where the rock quality rapidly deteriorates. The upper finger section is full of shit and maybe a dead bird, there were tons of flies coming out of the crack. The hollow flake also seemed a bit sketchy.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: eric whewell When: May 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route really deserves a seperate rappel route due its popularity.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: eric whewell When: May 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I carried doubles of small sizes on this route from purple tcu to .4 camalot with a 00 tcu as well. The small sizes are nice for the crux corner. The final dihedral pitch seemed to be pretty soft for the grade while p3 seemed to warrant 5.12-
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Stoned Oven (5.11c)
By: eric whewell When: May 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Certainly a double set of cams if not triples in the mid-sizes for the enduro corner pitch. It's long, sustained and eats gear. It's hard (and wide) off the belay then necks down then widens again before launching into the hands and thinner section. Long day, complex routefinding, and difficult climbing compromise Stoned Oven.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d)
By: eric whewell When: Jul 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic. This route goes quickly for a competent team.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Movable Stoned Voyage (5.10)
By: eric whewell When: Jul 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quality route with several good pitches interspersed with some junk and challenging route finding. I consider this route to be grade IV as it is much more involved and requires a longer day than other grade IV routes in the canyon.
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