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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Pee on Dee (5.8)
By: Eric Schmeer When: Nov 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Direct start recommended. Pushes it up to 10. Then hit the roof direct as well.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Basalt and Battery (5.10c)
By: Eric Schmeer When: Nov 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll admit, felt a bit stiff for a 10. A good spot will get you up to the first bolt. The mid section is indeed tricky. Great route, though.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Electrocuticles (5.12a)
By: Eric Schmeer When: Nov 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I sent this it was one of my first 12s, so I didn't have a lot to compare it to. Looking back now that I've bagged a few more climbs in that range, I'd have to say that this is a bit harder than 12a. 12b might even be a little soft.
Really sweet line. Couldn't get any thinner on the arete. Worth ticking often. This climb should see more traffic.
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Location: Eric Schmeer : Year 2 : Photo
By: Eric Schmeer When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: it's really what you're not looking at. this photograph suffers from an acute lack of acl... and from a different angle you would be sure to notice the severely torn meniscus. fortunately it is just a picture...
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Conehead (5.11b)
By: Eric Schmeer When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe I was tired or did it wrong, but it felt pretty hard for 11a/b. I'd say more like 11c.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Too! (5.12a)
By: Eric Schmeer When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The third pitch is stellar like everyone has said. It felt 11b or c. not too much lichen and loose stuff, the entire route seems pretty clean. The fourth pitch is also stellar with overhanging 11+ up to the ledge. I have a pretty good reach, and the move left is still way way out there. Probably 12b. With a bit of traversing, we made it down with one 70m rope in 4 raps. Killer after-work, shady, multi-pitch 12 action!
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : Pineapple Thunderpussy (5.11b)
By: Eric Schmeer When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once you get through the crumbly start, this is a very good route. the moves up top were excellent.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : The Bush League (5.12a)
By: Eric Schmeer When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really can't argue with anything you've just said Greg (except of course the hand hold on/foot hold off part that would make it highly contrived and is not the case). I'll be perusing your todo list asap, because I have no doubt in my mind that it is loaded with stellar routes. You are spoiled... and that is a GREAT thing to be when discussing the quality of routes you've ticked. I hope to get there someday as well and your list has got to be an excellent way to start!
-eric
P.S. - I didn't ... more >>
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree... : North Wall : The Bush League (5.12a)
By: Eric Schmeer When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ya know, I don't like contrived lines either, AND THIS IS CERTAINLY NOT ONE OF THEM. I feel the need to defend this route, even in opposition to the friend I climbed it with. The only thing I could say if this line had not been bolted would be what a waste! It's a great line. Going left from the 3rd bolt is appealing during the onsight attempt, especially after having taken a good look at a very difficult and technical crux to the right, but having gone left, the climber now finds him/herself on... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Maid Marian (5.9)
By: Eric Schmeer When: Jul 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the hangers on this route could be put to a better use... like bolting the approach to highwire in CCC (it's got to be at least a 4.10-)
jeeze.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Eric Schmeer When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last three pitches are spectacular. Not to be missed!
FYI: The chockstone rap leaves you looking up hill at a small slab to the left of a good sized pine tree. The vertigo rap rings are just on the other side of the slabs arete right in the middle. Get to the rings from the lower left side of this arete. Another set of chains follows.
Best way off the wall IMO allowing you to hit dirt in two single rope raps from the upper ramp.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/eldorado_c... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Bush Administration (5.10c)
By: Eric Schmeer When: Jun 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Long, sustained, airy, all around badass route. 10c sounds fair. It could 10b depending on height.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : The Cavity (5.10b)
By: Eric Schmeer When: May 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rap off the tree wasn't nearly as dubious as the lack of stances at the crux! Sweet climb.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: Eric Schmeer When: May 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the run out up the slab and the roof on pitch two warranted a .9 rating. The crux on pitch one seemed about .8ish though. Fun climb.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Solid Gold (5.11d)
By: Eric Schmeer When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this climb was stellar. The loose section everyone speaks so badly of was only for a very, very small portion, maybe 2 bolts... and it pays off with so so much stellar rock. I thought the crux pitch was very hard and definitely warranted a firm 12a rating. After that 4th pitch, the 5th pitch was a breeze with only one hard crux move over the roof edge and then super fun climbing on an awesome slab to the summit. Incredible route, thanks for all the time and labor that went into install... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Tractatus (5.11a)
By: Eric Schmeer When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well said, lbishop. Were this longer, it would easily get 4 stars. Great moves on it. Made for a nice cool down after a long hard day!
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : She's Got a Full Set of Cam... (5.10b/c)
By: Eric Schmeer When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guide mentioned that heading directly into the seam on the bolt line goes at 11a while stepping right and using the pockets to avoid it is 10c. That felt very accurate to me -- I would give the seem section 11a. Great climbing up top in dihedral. Amazing jams.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Twilight Zone : Shadow Play (5.11c)
By: Eric Schmeer When: May 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route. Till it cleans up a bit more, have the belayer helmet up... no joke. Honestly, when you add the sustained factor to the crux moves, I'd give this a CCC 11c/12a. What a variety pack of moves, and both roofs are just killer! Nice line Ryan. Glad after that last Oct - Dec bolting session I was able to finally come tick this one without ice!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Walking With A Ghost (5.11)
By: Eric Schmeer When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sent it clean today and it def carries a stiff 11 rating with the current holds (which are all really solid).
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Stone Free (5.11c R)
By: Eric Schmeer When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the route was pretty fun actually. I did the bird poop finish and managed to touch not one bit of it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Mercy Drilling (5.12a)
By: Eric Schmeer When: Mar 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think that pocket was drilled. If that goes on gear, it would def include a heavy R rating as the crux would be very unprotected.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden...
By: Eric Schmeer When: Mar 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A couple of jackets and some glasses were left behind around 3-16 right where the trail reaches the crag. I didn't scoop them up till the second day in a row they were there and had not been claimed. Shoot me a message if you want them back.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Lambada (5.10)
By: Eric Schmeer When: Nov 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The middle face is tricky towards the left... and the 2nd/final roof pull is a 10 move. Fun climb. Thoughtful, like most routes at this crag.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Bushes of Baelzebub (5.8+)
By: Eric Schmeer When: Oct 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went left for pitch 2. Definitely a legitimate variation. Tricky gear. Felt like a .10 move or two on it. There's a very old piton that I couldn't resist clipping about 15 or 20 feet from the anchors. I also used a 4 twice on this (I pulled it out below me to reduce drag and was very happy about that at the crux right before the anchors).
Not to be overlooked!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Eric Schmeer When: Oct 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The only thing that could do this route justice is the poetic description deposited here for you all on mountain project... thanks to MW.
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