Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curve - Lower Wall : Ionic Bonding (5.11a)
By: Eric Riddle When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun, juggy first pitch. Second pitch is good but has a short crux. Don’t cheat yourself by clipping the chains from below the second roof, pull it first!
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden 9th Street Wall : Jerusalem (5.11a PG13)
By: Eric Riddle When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Much harder than it looks. Utilizing careful footwork and good balance is the only way to get up this one.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mt. Ogden Quartzite (a.k.a.... : The Tangerine : Verona (5.11a)
By: Eric Riddle When: Sep 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route; I wish it was twice as long. Might be tough if you're short. I'm 6'0" with a +4 ape index and it is still a stretch for a couple moves.
|
Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : The 11a (5.11a/b)
By: Eric Riddle When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome jughaul. Even though this one gets traveled pretty often, I still pulled a good sized rock off near the top. Helmet for the belayer recommended, or at least belay close to the wall out of the way of flying rocks.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Outside Corner (5.7)
By: Eric Riddle When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, but not quite the classic I was hoping for. Several sections of crappy rock and mediocre pro detract from an otherwise awesome route. Still, a fun outing and pretty exciting. The last pitch was great, and much longer than I was expecting. As with a lot of routes in BCC, I found tricams to be especially useful.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden Canyon : The Ice Wall : Blues from a Gun (5.10b)
By: Eric Riddle When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really awkward start, but fun up above. The middle section is a bit contrived; it takes a lot of discipline to stay in the bolt line.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Moss Ledges : The Raw and the Cooked (5.11a)
By: Eric Riddle When: Aug 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A brown tri-cam near the top worked great for me. Watch out for stinging nettle growing out of the wall on the way to the first bolt; it hurts!
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curve - Upper Wall : Skyscraper (5.8)
By: Eric Riddle When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet exit. Be wise with your runners (on both gear and bolts) or you might get some nasty rope drag. Tri-cams work well on this route.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Drunk Punk Oi (5.11b/c)
By: Eric Riddle When: Jun 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! This is my favorite one in Ferguson so far. Some tough clips up higher, or maybe that was just the pump talking.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden Canyon : Hole in the Rock
By: Eric Riddle When: Jun 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unfortunately, the Ogden Area Climbing Guide has no first ascent information. I don’t have any of the older, out-of-print guides; maybe there is some info there?
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan Canyon : Fucoidal Quartzite : Begging For Bolts (5.11a)
By: Eric Riddle When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I felt like this route was more like a few short cruxes separated by straightforward climbing. Really fun, though. If you don't have two ropes you can use the anchors on Terminalogical Inexactitude as a second rap.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden Canyon : The Ice Wall : Carpal Tunnel Syndrome (5.10c)
By: Eric Riddle When: Apr 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The undercling start is a really cool sequence, and the ledge is more difficult to attain than you might think from below. Watch out for hornets in one of the sidepull holds (can be bypassed) on the upper headwall!
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mt. Ogden Quartzite (a.k.a.... : Schoolroom Wall : Tastes Like Burning (5.10d)
By: Eric Riddle When: Apr 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun, continuous route that utilizes several different techniques. You will definitely want to take a cam in the .3-.5 range for the initial moves, as a fall before the first bolt with no gear in could be disastrous for both the climber and belayer.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden 9th Street Wall : cracked Lip (5.11b/c)
By: Eric Riddle When: Mar 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun route with a sweet crux sequence. Tough to clean on rappel.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden 9th Street Wall : Vile of Crack (5.11b/c)
By: Eric Riddle When: Mar 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first clip might look intimidating, but unless you are really short it isn't bad. The crux is still down low, though, so you'll need an attentive belayer to keep you out of the dirt.
|
Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : Kelly's Rock : K-8 (5.11b)
By: Eric Riddle When: Dec 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bulletproof rock, fun moves, perfect holds. A little soft for the grade. I just wish it was longer!
|
Location: UT : Saint George : Chuckawalla Wall : The Garden Of Eden (5.10d)
By: Eric Riddle When: Dec 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route was really fun. The bulge is slopey but it has a decent clipping stance from below. After you pull over it, enjoy the juggy yet pumpy run to the anchors.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curve - Upper Wall : High Dive (5.11b)
By: Eric Riddle When: Nov 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun extension to Geronimo. If you take care to alleviate rope drag, it is easily led in one pitch from the ground. You can rap all the way to the ground from the top of High Dive with a single 60m.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : S-Curve - Upper Wall : Teaming Metropolis (5.10d)
By: Eric Riddle When: Nov 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this route to be extremely frustrating, as I was unable to figure out the roof sequence. If anyone is willing to share beta I will graciously accept it.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden Canyon : The Diamond : Da Kine (5.9)
By: Eric Riddle When: Nov 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the risk of sounding like a wuss, I will be the first to say this route is MUCH harder than it's neighboring route, Lichen Life (10a). It's pretty cool that this route links together, but I found it needlessly frustrating.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Winky and Waxman Go Bolting (5.11b)
By: Eric Riddle When: Nov 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a pretty reasonable highball boulder problem, especially since you can get it wired on a rope first. Watch out for the back-breaking boulder at the bottom!
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom Direct Variation (5.7 R)
By: Eric Riddle When: Nov 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think it's R. The gear is just a few feet below your feet when you make the slab traverse. Some creative use of the big flat chickenhead eliminated a slab move or two for me. This is a much better way to start schoolroom than the pointless block scramble and downclimb/traverse of schoolroom.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: Eric Riddle When: Nov 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As many others have already said, Schoolroom Direct is the best start. Pitch three (pitch two if you do the direct start) is the best but oh so short.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mt. Ogden Quartzite (a.k.a.... : Great Flake : Mr. Styles (5.10c)
By: Eric Riddle When: Oct 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The book calls this a 10b but I would agree with the 10c rating. I think this route is much more fun than any of the climbs at the 5.10 slab -- more consistent and athletic. My favorite 5.10 in the area.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mt. Ogden Quartzite (a.k.a.... : Asbury Park : Gangsta' Ledge : Teardrops on the City (5.11b)
By: Eric Riddle When: Oct 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the most memorable routes I've ever done. The first few moves lead off the deck out into space with A LOT of air under your feet. From then on is a beautiful arete with thought-provoking moves and even a few surprises. An instant classic. Don't forget to have your belayer anchor in, or they could be going for a ride!
|
RSS Feed
