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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : North Fin : Histoplasmosis (5.11+)
By: Eric Rhicard When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Beg to differ on the last 20 feet being run out. I found good pro to the top.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Hebe (5.14-)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: DON'T DO IT!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Golden Beaver (5.12+)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although this climb was originally rated 12d/13a there is no doubt in my mind it is 13a or possibly b. I would give it 13a even if you use the bolts. This climb was originally done in 1986 when people were hesitant to rate things 5.13 because there were not that many 13s around. That is why many + or d routes get bumped up a letter grade after they have had more ascents.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Chimney Rock : Shriveled Penis (5.11)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought it was hard but not too long.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The weather will be great unless you get there the same time a winter storm arrives. Storms only last a day or two and the day time highs may only get into the 50's if a storm comes in. If the sun is out you Alaskans will be fine. It can snow there but that is rare, very rare. As far as routes go download tofast's topos. Should be enough there to keep you busy for a week. Babo is fun, and a lot of hiking for some okay climbing (SE arete) but a nice peak to get to the top of.
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Location: AZ : Le Petit Verdon (aka The Pi... : (Way) Gone Wall : God Walks Among Us (5.12a)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice going Red. Might be you are getting stronger.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Golden Beaver (5.12+) : Photo
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Paul, the psychic pain of photos of myself wearing a helmet (dorky) would be far worse than the pain I felt banging my head. Just kidding. I will probably wear one at least on this route as I don't want to have a tiny bit of fear while redpointing. This thing is at my absolute limit and I cannot hesitate even a little. Maybe, I should just walk away, that way I will not have to wear a bucket. Nah, rather look like a dork who climbed this route.
I would also rather look like a d... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Sun Spot Crags : Brighter Side Of Darkness (5.11+)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Mark, we are still looking for more input on the grade. Now give it a star or a bomb or what ever you think it deserves. Thanks.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Hairpin Turn (Lefthand Wall... : Scorpion King (5.11c)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no 11c on this route. There might be some 11a but it is probably just 10d at the top. Did this route today for the first time. Did it as one long pitch with long runners. Pretty fun. There are 3 sets of anchors which is weird but it allows folks to do the first two pitches and not climb the short 10d headwall. Bolts are close enough that you could yard on draws to reach the 3rd set of anchors. I had pretty low expectations and I had a lot of fun climbing it.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Golden Beaver (5.12+) : Photo
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fall? What fall. I don't remember any fall!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Golden Beaver (5.12+)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: David refers to climbing the Golden Beaver ground up with no prepaced pro or clipping bolts as doing the "Brazilian Beaver"!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Golden Beaver (5.12+)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Currently David and I are working Golden Beaver Left which is definitely 13- and should have a separate entry. Having used the bolts to back up some of the placements while testing them(Whipping hard) I say leave them. It is also nice when others are running it on TR or for those wish to lead it without having a single nut between you and the ground. You have worked it hard and we have put a lot of time finding pro that I am just willing to lead it on and those bolts were helpful in that proc... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : North Fin : Agatha Christie (Direct) (5.8)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed it three times last weekend and didn't have a flexing hold anywhere that I could tell. The pro if placed properly is bomber and pretty much every where you need it. Not a four star route but a really good one for the grade.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Sphinx : Book Of Jon (5.10)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hope Jon likes it.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : Sentenced To Hang (5.12c)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Way to go Christian!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Fortress : Oedipus Complex (5.12-)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It could be a letter grade harder. I think it is a bit harder.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Sphinx : Book Of Jon (5.10)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did you write High man on the totem pole Christian?
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Location: AZ : Panther Peak : Split Boulder : Disasterpiece Theater (V1)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I will give you a star for a great name Joe!
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Climbology Area : Accelerated Climbology (5.9)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Long pitch that gets you to the top of the tower, good rock and pro with an excellent finish. Gotta lover it!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Fortress : Disfigured Foreigner (5.12-)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The name is now a tribute to how tunnel vision on the FA can keep a climber from finding the best and easiest way to climb a climb. I originally did not go left from the big hold you get the foot cam in. I used to grab that jug and then throw my leg up and over the ledge and my hands (figure four). from this position you could reach up to the next holds. Then some knuckle head (Erik Murdock) came along and used some other holds and wrecked everything. The foreigner was Eddy Mofardin who vis... more >>
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Location: AZ : Panther Peak
By: Eric Rhicard When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hiked up to the wall behind the boulders 20 years ago to look at the corner and decided the hike was too long and the rock didn't warrant the hike either. That was before I became a chosstafarian bra. Perhaps the rock is worth climbing but that hike will most likely still keep me away.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Chimney Rock : Straight Arrow (5.10+ PG13)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did it with the #2 wired hex but really didn't need it and that was in the 80's. Still might be PG13.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Mount Bigelow : Butterfly Wall : Iron Butterfly (5.12a) : Photo
By: Eric Rhicard When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The skyline left and below Vince is Firefly.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Mount Bigelow : Butterfly Wall : Green Flash (5.11c)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb has a very deceptive crux with some more obvious holds leading many to fail on the onsight. Once you unlock the sequence it is still a hard and rewarding climb.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Murray Wall : Kundalini Express (5.12a)
By: Eric Rhicard When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My favorite line on the wall.
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