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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Pistola (5.12a)
By: eric larson When: Aug 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route.. lots of sidepulls and a fun bouldery start!
Thanks to whomever left draws on the route...especially the few long runners!
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Home Alone : Sexorcisto (5.10c)
By: eric larson When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climbing and moves, but could def use some more travel/cleaning of sand and bat poo
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Photo
By: eric larson When: May 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ice cold.. perfect for a noon time refresher in the height of the summer!
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Solitary Confinement (5.12a)
By: eric larson When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic route with fun moves on beautiful rock on the headwall! Save some skin for this new must-do Shelf route!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : The Dangler (5.10a)
By: eric larson When: Feb 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: worth doing once for a badass photo to show your mother!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : 10,000 Restless Virgins (5.10d) : Photo
By: eric larson When: Dec 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: standing up here and placing gear was SO the crux on this climb.. very us easy having your feet blow the little overlap so you can't see where your toes are.. even though they arein that monster horizontal. I spent about 5 minutes in this position until i was comfy with my gear before the traverse to the anchor.
nice shots and good send!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Modern Times (5.8+)
By: eric larson When: Dec 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Modern Times is now 5.10 b/c"
damn.. that's a wee bit inflated.. compared to other solid 10s in the gunks this felt much easier.. pumpy sure, but no individual moves were that hard.. Moves on, say Feast of Fools, are harder, and I felt the route was just as pumpy.
Besides, half the fun of this route is that it goes at 5.8+.. sandbagged a bit.. sure.. but that's the best part! The + just means exciting!
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Suspender Man (5.11)
By: eric larson When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once you figured out the beta on the reachy move, this felt pretty 11d. It's just very atypical of other Shelf routes.
Really fun route though...didn't feel THAT polished...lots of chalk yes, but the holds are big enough and positive enough that it didn't pose an issue.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Feast of Fools (5.10b) : Photo
By: eric larson When: Aug 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ah I LOVE this route... great angle!
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Photo
By: eric larson When: Aug 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is just north of the rough lock falls main parking area
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: eric larson When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: hey everyone
Ill be relocating to CO in August, but will be making a much needed pit stop in Spearfish for a few days.
Anyone care to spray some beta as to the best walls that time of year (aug 18-22 roughly)? We are looking to do get in mileage rather than projecting.. any uber classic 10s, 11s, low 12's recommended?
Also, there's a few shots of what looks to be gorgeous swimming holes.. anyone care to elaborate on where to find them?
feel free to pm, email or just reply here
thanks! can't... more >>
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : The Saigons (5.8)
By: eric larson When: Jul 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a great route.. this can be done on a single 60m... lowering off the first pitch requires you to swing to climber's left and reach a ledge at the end of your rope.. then a dirty, but easy/safe downclimb for about 10 feet lands you on the ground, uphill of the belay. Don't forget to knot your rope!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : City Lights (5.8-)
By: eric larson When: Jul 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed p2 straight up from the anchors instead of out left.. was a bit dirty, but i felt it kept the grade 7 or 8- with decent gear. Pitch 1 was fun, and super exciting as the bottom crux was sopping wet!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Directissima (5.9)
By: eric larson When: Jul 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The variation climbs the crack that is slightly leaning to the right... Pull around the bulge down low to the stance, work up the rampy corner and then pull into the crack where you see the piton... the crack is thin so bring small gear! You'll meet up with the Directissima hand traverse about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way through it.. depends if you throw lefty or righty for the jugs!
Link ground to GT in 1 pitch for yet another gunks spectacle!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Layback (5.5) : Photo
By: eric larson When: Jun 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: my favorite thing about this climb is that the 2nd pitch is 5.3... Wild pic! that don't look like no 5.3 to me!
gunks rule
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Location: NH : Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Apocalypse Later (5.11c/d)
By: eric larson When: May 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tom you are totally correct.. there is a nice undercling on the face.. I use it with my thumb to shake out my right arm before tackling the last few moves to the anchors... its a wild rest!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : MF (5.9)
By: eric larson When: Apr 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: as the DW guide says, this is the standard 5.9 in the gunks. unfortunately it gets the top rope train run on it so it can be a pain to get on... but the beauty of the gunks is that if one three star climb is taken there is a pick of a million others!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Le Teton (5.9+)
By: eric larson When: Apr 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: greaaat pitch.. i wish it were longer though.. the moves are so much fun. the jug haul goes 5.8 probably, with the crux (for me) being the crack and traverse.. super exposed!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Directissima (5.9)
By: eric larson When: Apr 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: i usually link the first two pitches and dont have that much a problem with rope drag.. just keep long runners on everything. saves a bit of time
that being said, this is the BEST way to do high E as it makes for 3 or 4 pitches of spectacular climbing. the arete pitch is stellar
there is also a variation that avoids the hand traverse... when you pull around the bulge into the slanting corner, look up and there is a crack leading straight and meeting back up with the normal route just before ... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : CCK Direct (5.9 PG13)
By: eric larson When: Apr 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: simply brilliant climb... if you think the original CCK route is good.. do the direct! three overhangs in 1 pitch.. plus the classic CCK flake... only downside is no airy traverse!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Bonnie's Roof (5.9)
By: eric larson When: Apr 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: absolute must do, gunks classics, especially when finished via the direct line!
5.8 or 5.9 who cares.. this route is simply fun-friggin-tastic and should be done by all who climb 8's and 9s
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Annie Oh! (5.8+)
By: eric larson When: Apr 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: i climbed the first pitch of arrow to get up here.. much nicer first pitch imo.. definitely be careful of that loose block, tempting to pull on it, but there plenty of holds before/past it!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Ants' Line (5.9)
By: eric larson When: Apr 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: one of the most aesthetic lines in the gunks... just screams "Climb me!" a certain must do for the 5.9 gunks climber
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