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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Toot (5.10d)
By: Eric and Lucie When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Save your ankles... stick place the nut from the ground. Your fingers will be blocking the placement once you do the move... Placing the nut from the ground but not clipping a draw or the rope to it would be a fine compromise IMO.
I found this route to be hard because it is quite pumpy (I suck at pumpy climbing!). I thought some of the pro placements were not immediately obvious (though they are excellent), so I got quite pumped placing and had to hang.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson
By: Eric and Lucie When: May 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: By far the easiest descetn from Mt Wilson is down first creek canyon.
From the summit, head back toward the limestaone to a saddle in red sand. From here, follow gentle slopes and slabs (trail and cairns), into the top of First Creek canyon. Water can usually be found here into May. Scramble down the drainage to the first creek trailhead on the main road (easy, but long and with endless scrambling around boulders). Walk 0.5 mile up the road back to the pullout at the old Oak Creek Campground... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson
By: Eric and Lucie When: Oct 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ditto about Joanne's supplement to the red book: extremely well made, and a great selection of otherwise undocumented routes, mostly long ones. Very good and useful photographs as well.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8)
By: Eric and Lucie When: Oct 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why the bolts on the first pitch??? There is a bomber crack right there... I cannot remember if those bolts have been there for a long time... don't remember them back when I did the route many years ago. Have they been added recently? Why? There seems to be new unnecessary bolts appearing on existing routes throughout the area. Is it just me or is this really happening?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : The Gobbler (5.10-)
By: Eric and Lucie When: Oct 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just climbed the route yesterday. We had done the first 2 pitches a few years ago and really enjoyed them: lots of variety! About the third pitch: I thought there is no way that pitch is 5.9. We've climbed extensively on this wall (POD twice, YBR twice, DOWT twice) and this pitch has one move which I think is at least as hard as anything on POD for example: around the next to last bolt (I think), all the positive crimps disappear and you have to do this really thin, slabby move... I'd say abo... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: Eric and Lucie When: Oct 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I highly recommend this route. The approach is a bit long (exact same approach as for Resolution Arete) but the route is worth it. It is a long one, but there is zero commitment involved as the descent is down the way you climb... The route starts in a dark, narrow gully just to the right of the start of Resolution Arete. Do not get discouraged by the first pitch, which is really bad (slippery red rock covered in moss) but not too hard. The second pitch is beautiful and it is the crux of the... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: Eric and Lucie When: Oct 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: For pictures, trip report and other beta about this route, check out our web site: http://www.ericandlucie.com/Website2003/Red%20Rocks/Unimpeac>>>>>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Resolution Arete (5.10 A1)
By: Eric and Lucie When: Oct 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: We climbed this route (in a day) last spring (May 2004). I could not say that the climbing itself was that great (by RR standards) but we had always wanted to do it because of the classic line and length. We have many photos, a detailed route description, gear beta, and a trip report on our site: www.ericandlucie.com. Note that we have reports and photos for a good number of the other RR classics as well.
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