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Member Since: Nov 2, 2007
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Eric8

Point Rank: # 2,146
Total Points: 296
Last Year: 7
Last 30 Days: 0
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 787 | Routes 15 | Areas | Photos 19 | Page Improvements | Comments 51 | Posts 136 | Stars 451 | Ratings 115
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Highlander Wall : Old Boys Club (5.11a)
By: Eric8 When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: The start of this route is great, the 10 it finishes on not so much.


Location: NH : Lakes Region : Sandwich Notch : Highlander Wall : Split Image (5.11d)
By: Eric8 When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: This is the obvious dihedral left of the Quickening. Climb up to a high first bolt, then tech (where did all the hold go??) past two more bolts in the dihedral (crux) before a final sting in the tail at the last bolt. Chain anchor.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff
By: Eric8 When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: There facebook pages says they were targeting summer 15 for whatever that is worth...
facebook.com/groups/valhallapu...


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Freedom Rider (5.10d R)
By: Eric8 When: Feb 27, 2015

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Comments: Its been awhile but I remember the rock being pretty good after by WA Pass standards...


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Madsen's Buttress : La Cucaracha (5.10)
By: Eric8 When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: Agreed pretty good route. The only thing I remember thinking was can I use both cracks and if so its not 10d...


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Mary Jane Dihedral (5.9)
By: Eric8 When: Feb 25, 2015

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Comments: Underrated as good as Orbit imo


Location: MA : College Rock : Main Crag : My Mind Is A Blank (5.11+)
By: Eric8 When: Feb 11, 2015

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Comments: I think he just means the low crux that most people deadpoint is not actually the crux.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Starcastle : To The Fire Wind (5.11d)
By: Eric8 When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: Fun route, definitely worth doing if you're in the area. Like all routes in this area, a little soft for the grade.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Starcastle : Elliptical Seasons (5.12a)
By: Eric8 When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: 11a might be a bit stiff...perhaps the route has cleaned up a little bit, but the rock is pretty good and the bolts quite close. I did break one foot chip, and the rock is a little friable but not enough to distract from the quality of the route.


Location: MA : Milford Bouldering : Quarry Land : Paradigm of Parallelity (V7+)
By: Eric8 When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: nice picture, Joe.

I haven't sent this, but it has to be one of the Milford classics like Bloodsport ie one that would be a classic anywhere... probably much closer to an 8 than 7.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Hatful of Hollow (5.12b)
By: Eric8 When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: From the first Retaliation anchor due you need any gear? or is it all bolts from there?


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Newhalem : Ryan's Wall : Cold Beer in the River (5.9+)
By: Eric8 When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: The third pitch is now clean and worthwhile. If doing so link the first pitch with the short 5.8 pitch to avoid the hanging belay. To do this you will need ~20 draws or you can skip/back clean a few bolts.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Pretty Vacant (5.11d)
By: Eric8 When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Has this been cleaned recently?

When I lived there I never saw anyone on it and it was always dirty. Never heard of anyone doing it either, though I'm not suggesting it hasn't been repeated. Can anyone comment on the grade? I always thought this had a very high probability of being a classic index sandbag given the FA party.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : ** Bouldering at Index : ... : All of the Above (V12)
By: Eric8 When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: FA:Johnny Goicoechea
Here is Kelly's video




Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : The Vaporizer (5.12a)
By: Eric8 When: Jul 15, 2013

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Comments: This might be my favorite 12a at Rumney so far. Still I can only give it 3 stars because the its neighbor the Crusher is so much better despite being much easier too


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Echo Crag : 2. The Shield : Eds Weed be Gone (5.10b)
By: Eric8 When: Jun 21, 2013

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Comments: There is also an entry for Ed's Weed be Gone in the every square inch wall section...I think the shield wall is the correct location for the route. Having two entries is redundant though, moderator?


Location: NH : WM: Franconia Notch : Echo Crag : 1. Square Inch Wall : Mandrill (5.9)
By: Eric8 When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: Pin is still there, but not really necessary as the horizontal cracks up there take small cams.


Location: MA : Milford Bouldering : Quarry Land : Little Devil (V2)
By: Eric8 When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: I guess not everybody agrees with me, but I thought this was really good and would be a classic at almost any area. Could almost call it a highball.


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff : Photo
By: Eric8 When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: Nice photos! thanks. I think promised land gets 12a most everywhere..


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Welcome Boulders : Welcome Crack (V4)
By: Eric8 When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: I know this gets a lot of stars in the guidebook. I just think there are a lot of much better problems at pway. The crux isn't really that fun, awkward left hand stab around a corner and the rock is pretty poor by pway standards. It is tall and aesthetic but that isn't enough for me.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Feast of Fools (5.10b)
By: Eric8 When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was one of the better protected 5.10's at the gunks I have done. I did put a screamer on one of the pins, but even if those blew the #3 camalot just below would catch you after a big but clean fall.


Location: MA : Ayer Boulders : Trashcan Boulder
By: Eric8 When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: I believe this problem is called The Compactor, and it is on the Trash Can Boulder. See the videos in the comments on the Ayer main page.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Block : Knock Your Block Off (V6)
By: Eric8 When: Mar 9, 2013

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Comments: very good problem, definitely worth doing, don't think the difficult is in line with other problems of that grade


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si
By: Eric8 When: Feb 2, 2012

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Comments:



Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Heaven's Gate (5.11a)
By: Eric8 When: Sep 29, 2011

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Comments: I was told the second pitch was 10b and felt okay with that in comparison to the grading of the other pitches on the route. The first pitch isn't easy but index 10c seems about right. I don't think it is as hard as slow children.


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