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Member Since: Sep 13, 2012
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Eric "Pig" Varley

Eric "Pig" Varley
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Total Points: 30
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Eric "Pig" Varley been climbing?

Eric "Pig" Varley



All 179 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts 21 | Stars 105 | Ratings 36
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

The Paraclete

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b (6)

Trad, 6 pitches, 700'

CA : Southern Sierra : ... : Power Dome

Aug 12, 2013

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: The Paraclete on Power Dome

The Paraclete on Power Dome

CA : Southern Sierra : ... : The Paraclete (5.10)

Aug 12, 2013

Contributed Comments


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Bishop Peak : P-Wall : Leapin' Lizards (5.9)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Sep 3, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I led this route yesterday. I'm not sure if I missed something, or if it is actually supposed to be super run out (ground fall potential). The plus side is that it's super easy through the run out section. Anyone have any beta on additional protection between bolts 2 and 3?

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (u) Northeast Buttress : Flower of High Rank (5.9)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: I'll add to what jay2718 highlights about belaying at the beginning of this route. We had a friend take a fall this weekend a few feet below the tree. He popped off, then swung around right, landing hard (heels first) on the ramp/gully. He heavily bruised his heels, and may have even broken a bone. His belayer was at the bottom of the gulley and had a little slack in the system (not a lot, but apparently enough). The rope caught just before he hit, but not enough to slow him down much due t... more >>

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome : Hannaramic (5.10 PG13)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Nov 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is the most consistently difficult route that I have climbed on Power Dome. Similar to other routes, it is comprised mainly of face climbing on small edges, rails, and slopers. Be prepared for lots of hand-foot matches, mantles, and "trust it and move" smearing. The first 4 pitches are engaging and fairly unrelenting in difficulty. Kudos to the FA party for putting up such a amazing route.

P1 (5.10a, 5-bolts): Looking up from the base of the climb, the crux of the pitch is obvious. Fr... more >>

Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokule'ia Wall : Photo
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: I believe that is Dragon's Breath.

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Church Bowl Lieback (5.8)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: Very fun route with straight forward lieback climbing. If leading it on nuts, bringing a few extra medium (finger) sized nuts would be ideal. I was on a set of BD nuts and only had the smallest 2 and largest 2 left over at the end of the route. I also brought some small cams (C3 #0-#2), which came in handy after I accidentally kicked a piece out while firing the crux.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : Spaghetti & Chili (5.7+)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: Super fun climb and can be very well protected. But since when did a 5.7 have a 5.9 crux? Getting out from under the flake and establishing the lieback stance is very tenuous. The last time I did a vertical 5.7 lieback, I had this little thing called foot holds. Whatever, J-tree ratings don't seem to mean anything anyway.

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : Penelope's Walk (5.6)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: Terrible climb with sections of deteriorating granite. The route is very difficult to protect as the features on scarce, small, and flaring. I placed a tipped out nut in the "crack" just before the traverse out left as it's the only thing that I could place there. A fall on the 5.6/5.7 slab traverse would have pulled the piece and resulted in a nasty fall.

I gave the route an "R" rating because, while you can place gear, little of it is any good. I would be surprised if my gear held a fall.... more >>

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Right On (5.6 PG13)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: I agree with DaveGustafson. This route is dangerously under-rated. The first pitch is easily 5.8 slab climbing, if not harder. Add to that the potential to deck before clipping the first bolt, and you're in for a big and unpleasant surprise. Past the bolt, it just gets harder on semi-decent feet and barely functional hand holds, and remains sustained until you hit the crack. A fall before the crack would also be unfavorable and you'd hit the apron below.

P1 - 5.8X/5.9R slab climbing.
P2 - ... more >>

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome : A Little Nukey (5.9)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Kyle, in the King's Canyon guide book, it actually shows the third belay anchor on the giant flake as you describe. I have done the route both ways, and it definitely makes more sense to build a natural anchor at the top of pitch 3 rather than continue up to the bolted anchor.

The approach can be tricky. Double ropes make the rappel much easier. Once you get down to the creek, the key is to stay low and hug the creek. Make your way through a notch between large boulders (look up at the craz... more >>

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side : Jensen's Jaunt (5.6)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: After climbing this and Left Ski Track, I'm convinced that 5.6 is the mentally hardest grade to climb at Tahquitz.

This was a fun route, with some very exciting moves. Nothing is that hard physically, but if you're limit is 5.6 you will have a mentally difficult time with this route.

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : The Long Climb (5.8)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Apr 8, 2013

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Comments: This route has a bit of 5.8 climbing on every pitch, except for the 6th and final pitch. My partner and I climbed the first pitch of Wong (amazing hand crack) then kept going up through the Mummy Crack (way more secure than it looks).

Pitch 5 (downward pointing flake) is serious mental business. We were both knackered from the previous day's adventure and had little juice left for this crux. I agree with BrendanC, there is plenty of solid pro here. The moves are balancey, the holds are kind... more >>

Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokule'ia Wall
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Jan 24, 2013

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Comments: Mokuleia and Makapuu are closed for the time being. The best place for information on the closure is to check out Climb Aloha's Facebook page (I can't believe I just recommended Facebook for info). This page will be updated when the crags reopen to the climbing community.

Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome : Welcome to Courtright (5.9)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Great route description, and the topo picture is accurate. The runouts on this route are definitely no harder than 5.7. When in doubt, get high feet, step up, and a good hand hold will be there. The hard moves are the crux on pitch 2 and the few crux moves on tightly spaced bolts on pitch 3. If you can climb Nukey, and don't get pysched out on runout terrain, this rotue is a must do.

Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokule'ia Wall : Beat the Burn (5.9+)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: For all you 5.9 leaders, be careful approaching this route. The crux is very beta specific and not entirely intuative. Even once you're past it, you can still feel quite insecure. Beyond that section the rest of the climb goes at 5.9 or easier.

Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokule'ia Wall : Ambulance Driver (5.10c)
By: Eric "Pig" Varley When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: Fantastic route with a lot of variety. I'd give it 3-stars, missing the one due to the start being a bit of an awkward stem that just wants to spit you out.

I cannot emphasize enough the need for additional pro if you are going to lead this route. A ground fall is possible at the top of the runnout. The crack will take anything from 0.5"-1".

Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Needles guidebook pre-sale...General ClimbingEric "Pig" VarleyJun 30, 2016
Tuolumne air qualityNorthern CaliforniaEric "Pig" VarleySep 8, 2015
re: Tuolumne Meadows Closing 8/17-8/21Northern CaliforniaEric "Pig" VarleyAug 14, 2015
Courtright - Transformer WallNorthern CaliforniaEric "Pig" VarleyAug 3, 2015
re: Totem cams not the alien versionClimbing Gear DiscussionEric "Pig" VarleyApr 27, 2015
re: Totem cams clipping questionClimbing Gear DiscussionEric "Pig" VarleyFeb 26, 2015
re: Hawaii's main crag has been reopenedGeneral ClimbingEric "Pig" VarleyJan 23, 2015
re: Who Uses DMM Phantom Carabiners?Climbing Gear DiscussionEric "Pig" VarleyNov 3, 2014
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