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Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up the best pitches of the route. Perfect ...


Member Since: Oct 10, 2012
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 337
Total Points: 2,049
Last Year: 158
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1762 | Routes 29 | Areas 5 | Photos 310 | Page Improvements | Comments 134 | Posts 308 | Stars 598 | Ratings 378
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : Pulp Friction (5.8+)
By: Eric Klammer When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: A little run out, but nothing that should deter a solid 5.8 leader. The R rating is probably most relevant to the fact that you'll be slightly run out over rusty bolts with SMC hangers marinating in the water streak.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : The Waffle (5.9+ R)
By: Eric Klammer When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: This is a great little pitch! Definitely not R rated, PG-13 at most. The hard section is well protected with the climbing above only 5.6/7. The upper slab offers a couple good nut opportunities and plenty of chickenheads to sling to keep things sane.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Perversion (5.9)
By: Eric Klammer When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: You can make it from the nice bolted rap station atop Parallel Journey to the starting ledge of Perversion in one double 70m rope rappel. It's probably around 235-240' and just possible with rope stretch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : The Offset (5.9+ R)
By: Eric Klammer When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Just did this again today and found it to be slightly easier and better protected than last time, though still solidly "R". At the top of the first corner, I was able to get in a good offset RP that may hold a fall as long as you don't swing too far back left. This was in addition to the small nut keyed into the solution pocket directly above you.

I was able to get two tiny but very solid looking RPs at the base of the next corner. The crux comes directly after this and feels relatively safe, a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Asahi (5.10 PG13)
By: Eric Klammer When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Another vote for easy 5.10 and G rated. With a handful of gear, this climb sews up very well. 1st pitch has a very short section of harder climbing getting around the arete with slopey but good holds and great feet.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Eric Klammer When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: Don't take more than a single rack and a lot of draws/loose biners. I placed 8-10 pieces total over all 5 pitches.

Overall a super fun route that you can knock out relatively quickly. Rope soloed it and went base to top in 5 hours. A competent party could probably go car to car under 6 hours.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Ichiban Arete (5.10a)
By: Eric Klammer When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: No way this thing is "R" on anything more than 5.6 climbing. You can place good gear before leaving the dihedral, and from there, it's hand over hand across a very large and positive handrail before reaching a bomber nut and #1 placement for the mantle to the first bolt. From there, it's well-protected by bolts until the arete where the difficulty eases off significantly. Higher on the arete, you can even get a great #3 in a hueco to protect the final few moves to the top.

Don't le... more >>


Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Mount Royal (near Frisco) : Royal Flush (5.9)
By: Eric Klammer When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: After going up this route 4-5 times over the past couple of years, we decided to mix it up and give it a try on gear only for the lead pro. We did still use the bolted anchors at the end of our pitches, so we could keep things moving quickly.

Fun times though and a good way to make the route new and interesting again. The first half of the route to the talus field was still relatively well-protected, as were the final pitches to the top. The pitch off the talus field (we linked a few) was the ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Out to Lunge (5.9 R)
By: Eric Klammer When: Apr 17, 2015

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Comments: Great route with much better climbing than I imagined after looking it over from the ground. It was a little spicy but never seriously runout, and the cruxes had gear at your waist or above. The upper slab is a little tricky, but as someone mentioned earlier, you can sling a decent chickenhead/pebble off to your right for some pro. After that, it's one big move up to a jug and then good gear to the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Pygmy Pony (5.9 PG13)
By: Eric Klammer When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: I thought this was a fun line with good moves and somewhat adequate protection. How often do you get to toe hook and bear hug your way up an arete on a 5.9? While the pro was decent, there are a few places where a fall could smash you back on the big pillar below. Probably not a great lead for those breaking into 5.9.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Super Scooper (5.9+)
By: Eric Klammer When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: I found this line to be much cleaner and more fun than it looks from the ground. Some consistently steep moves will keep the pump clock running, and the gear is just the perfect little bit spicy. Unlike the Levin book which rates P2 as the crux, I found it to be significantly easier than P1 with maybe 2 semi-hard moves before reaching the never ending monster jugs of the rest of the pitch. The gear on P2 is slightly worse though, with a fall from above the crux landing you back on the sloping le... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : North Rock
By: Eric Klammer When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: That branch over the slot is no joke! I rammed my head into it last year, and I think my ears are still ringing....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Wired (5.9+ PG13)
By: Eric Klammer When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: I agree that this climb warrants a solid R rating, and I wouldn't want to put a 5.9 leader on the sharp end of this one. This is one of those pitches where you can place the gear, but there is no way of telling how good it really is without falling on it. While you have great gear for the first little crux of pulling on to the slab, until you reach the good flake at the end of the traverse, you are relying completely on tiny RPs behind the very thin, outside edge of the crack. Falling could very... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Cold Turkey (5.8+)
By: Eric Klammer When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: This is a great line to climb if you want to mix things up from the many lower angle, straight in, crack climbs found at the Perch. A good hands to wide hands crack (with right foot stemmed to the boulder) leads to some fun crimping and steep jamming above. A small BD nut gives you protection at your chest for the crux, and bomber cams go in a couple of feet above. Swing left to Steppenwolf at the top of the pillar, and run it to the anchor on a hero hand crack!

I believe this climb is referred... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Wet Turkey aka Turkey Perch... (5.7+)
By: Eric Klammer When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: This climbed surprisingly easier than it looked. Many features on both sides of the OW make this more a stemming climb than a crack climb. Easy 5.7 if you don't get too fixated on the crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Funeral March (5.9)
By: Eric Klammer When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: This thing crushed my body and soul. Way harder than I expected giving the 5.9- rating in the guidebook. My second was able to follow it rather easily with a fair amount of face climbing, but on lead with 1 #6 and a few crappy Aliens behind loose and crumbly flakes, you can bet I was in full on squeeze chimney mode. That being said, while scary, this climb was oddly enjoyable. The sequence I used to pull the final roof was certainly something to witness. Legs wrapped around that final big ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Wind Tower Slab (5.9 X)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 21, 2015

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Comments: Fun moves on good stone. Anywhere from mid-5.10 to 5.9 depending on what contrived path you choose. There's a pretty blank panel about 1/3-1/2 way up that's pretty fun to scratch your way up for a few moves. Didn't see much of any pro, definitely X rated if one were to lead it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Unknown 10c aka Quadrille (5.10c)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: Gonna have to join the "way hard for 10c" group on this one. Pulled moves between the bolts that involved yarding on a sharp crimper with the right hand while hand-foot matching a tiny pebble and sloping dish with the left. Definitely some missing rock on the small, left-facing flake above the first bolt, is that recent or cleaned on the FA?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Laughing at the Moon (5.10b)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: One of the best face pitches I've had the pleasure of climbing. Sustained at the 5.9 level with a few spots of easier 5.10, this is a continuous pitch with the perfect amount of protection. While in no way outright dangerous, this pitch kept my attention with tricky climbing above somewhat rusty bolts or pitons (even placing gear where possible). PG-13.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Skip 'n' Go Naked (5.8 R)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, thought I saw some chalk on it and figured it must have been you. I wonder how long it has gone unclimbed before seeing two ascents within a couple of hours haha....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : January Playmate (5.8)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: 15' of good climbing at the start and another 15' at the end. The middle majority is awkward and polished with funky pro. A fall around the rightwards traverse would be bad indeed. Overall not a great route IMHO.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Nobody's Home (5.9)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: Great climb that is much more fun than it looks from the ground. Nothing awkward about the climbing with a sustained mix of thin crack and cool face. Pro seemed pretty good to me with some spaced out but generally solid pieces. Offset nuts/cams and a couple of small cams for the end will serve you well. The rap sling is currently nice and new with a fatty rap ring.

Oh, and nobody's home.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Baby Sitter (5.9 PG13)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 4, 2015

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Comments: Fun climbing over a short distance. Very pumpy in its current state as the wall has a good amount of lichen on it rendering your feet pretty useless for the last half of the traverse. If 5.9 is towards your limit, you may have to decide between getting pumped placing weird, tricky gear and maybe falling on it or placing little gear and just going for it!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Pencil & Eraser area aka Be... : Esmerelda (WI4 M6-7)
By: Eric Klammer When: Feb 4, 2015

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Comments: This route is short but packs a lot of fun! Really good when the ice is fat, as the curtain is at least a body length wide and you get to do a sweet, pumpy traverse. Bolts seemed okay, but I didn't test any.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part B - Long ... : Strawberry Shortcut (5.9+)
By: Eric Klammer When: Jan 25, 2015

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Comments: Pro on P1 seemed fine. Thin in the first dihedral but should stop a fall, great red Alien just before the crux, then a fixed nut and a blue Alien at your waist for the crux. Fell there, and they held fine. I believe the R rating in the newer Levin guide is for the second pitch? Didn't do it, but the pro certainly looked questionable from above.

Overall a super fun and tricky "5.9". Ended up doing the crux hands first, making a big reach right to a good edge over the roof, and hauling my quiver... more >>


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