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Member Since: Jul 15, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Eric Hirst

Point Rank: # 1,609
Total Points: 467
Last Year: 37
Last 30 Days: 10
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Eric Hirst been climbing?










Contributions


All 196 | Routes 22 | Areas 2 | Photos 32 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 45 | Posts 4 | Stars 71 | Ratings 16
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Northwest Region : Newhalem : Ryan's Wall : Lockjaw (5.12b)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: Hugely fun route; the steepest 12b at Newhalem. Use a 70m or 80m rope, and warm up on Hull Yeah to screw your head on and get a good preview of the line. If you can't climb Hull Yeah without getting pumped, this may just beat you up hard.

I've only climbed this via Serendipity. On my first couple attempts, I experienced pretty bad rope drag near the top. The following beta took care of that for me on my redpoint run:

1. Use only 17cm draws on... more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Shangri-La : Hypertension (5.12a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: Very enjoyable climb; recommended. I'd suggest stick clipping the second bolt the first time you try this. It's an OK clip if you do everything perfectly, but if you get the beta wrong, you risk a bad upside down fall or groundfall here.

Other beta: Bring a long runner for the 3rd bolt, and wrap a bit of tape around the base of your left pinky to save some skin on the initial crux.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : Midland : Violent Phlegms (5.11b)
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: The belay tree at the base blew down in the winter of 2015/2016. I added a belay bolt today to protect the newly exposed ledge. (Bolt is shared with Sweet and Sticky.)


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : Midland : Sweet and Sticky (5.9)
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: The belay tree at the base blew down in the winter of 2015/2016. I added a belay bolt today to protect the newly exposed ledge.

I believe the route is also now fully bolted; no serious runouts and no gear required.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : The Woods : Godflesh (5.11-)
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: This is actually right, not left, of Digitalis.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : The Woods : State of Perplexity (5.12a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: This long-overlooked sorta-gem was cleaned up and partially re-bolted (new crux bolts, new anchors) in April 2016. It now makes a nice complement to Lay of the Land and Digitalis on the 12-minus tour.

It's easy to pre-hang draws on this by climbing Bioclimatic Quandary. If you choose this option, bring a cam or 2 to avoid having to solo the easy dihedral on that route.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : No Name Crags : Mine Wall : Benevolent (5.12+)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: Great job, Ben! Really happy to see this one go down. Not surprised the chains were hard to clip -- they were a blind guess at the time I put them in.

Good call belaying at the first Greedy anchor. I think that block is solid, but this keeps the belayer and rope out of the way in case anything does come off.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 32 / Little Si : Midland : Lay of the Land (5.12a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jul 4, 2015

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Comments: A bolt or two was added recently to eliminate the runout section, with permission from the first ascensionist.


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Darrington : Squire Creek Walls : Illusion Wall : Excalibur (5.10+)
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: Excellent, very well protected climbing, characteristic of Chris Greyell's later routes. It's a bit of a hump to the base.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Rice Krispies (5.10b)
By: Eric Hirst When: Mar 21, 2015

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Comments: I think you're right, Geoff. I dropped it down a notch.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Wildest Dreams (5.12a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: The best 5.10 at Index?

If you aid the 5.12b section, Wildest Dreams is only slightly more demanding than Davis Holland -> Lovin' Arms. Think of it as a 5.10+ trad route with a bit of bolted 5.11- thrown in for good measure. Then get on it.

No need for etriers on p3. The seam is less than vertical, and only lasts about 20-25 feet. One shoulder-length sling to stand in was plenty.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : House of the 7th Bobcat (5.11d)
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: 11d may be a "sandbag by consensus" rating; not sure. I've tried doing the crux again on TR a couple times now since I first led it, with zero success. The crux is only about 5' of climbing, but the sequence is very specific and feels much harder than any single move on Stern Farmer or (according to Jon) Bobcat Cringe.

It's maybe V4 or V5 or V6 or V7 or or 5.11b or 5.13a or something -- I don't really have a clue anymore. At least the bolts are there to hang on while you work out t... more >>


Location: WA : Northwest Region : Newhalem : Ryan's Wall : Gainfully Unemployed (5.12b)
By: Eric Hirst When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: This is part of a harder project that Benjit bolted a while back. Doug recently added anchors at the top of the 5.12 climbing for an instant classic. The rating fluctuates with ego.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Borderline (5.10d)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: When I originally suggested 5.9+ for pitch 5, I was trying to put in in the context of other Squamish offwidths. My references were March of the Kitchen Utensils (5.9), p2 of Berrycup (10a, next to Crescent Crack), Split Beaver (10b), and Boogie 'til you Puke (then 10c).

The entry moves can be baffling and don't really feel like 5.9 to me either. After that it's pretty much textbook blowfish technique. Savor the moment.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : Lava Point : Lava Wall/Deadheads : B weir of the Dead (5.10a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Aluminum hangers on the crux bolts as of 7/7/2014. Cold shut anchor. This and several other routes in the area seem overdue for a hardware upgrade.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : No Name Crags : Mine Wall : Photo
By: Eric Hirst When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: Taken from the hairpin. You have to hike up the road now, but it's not too bad. Cliff in the background is Mine Wall, but you might just want to go up and boulder. About 30 problems were established in the winter/spring of 2014. Most require at least 2-3 pads.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Zeke's Wall : Flow (5.11a)
By: Eric Hirst When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Hi Kerwin -- I haven't heard of anyone going up there for a little while, so it may have developed some cruft in spots. I know Morgan H. said that P1 of Mortal Coil was starting to green up again. You should be fine, though -- the cruxes are also the driest and sunniest parts, so they should be OK even if there is some moss or moisture on P3 or the base of P1. Have fun, and PM me if you want a Magic Brush to give things a once-over when you're up there.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Photo
By: Eric Hirst When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: OCD challenge photo! I made Jon take the draws off after this so I could put them back on right-side-up.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : The Black Flag of the Schwa... (5.10+)
By: Eric Hirst When: May 3, 2014

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Comments: Really fun climbing! Highly recommended for anyone in the area, and a great warmup for the hard stuff nearby. I'd give it 4 stars if it were longer.

Note that we swapped out the old SMC hangers from the first 2 Sideshow bolts, but did not replace these bolts. They seem OK.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : No Name Crags
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: The short approach "road" is now overgrown with alder and no longer looks like a road at all. The key is to park just where FS 62 levels out and cuts S. Leave your car at the very last spot where you can still see views across the Sky Valley, then walk another 50m along FS 62 to where a trail cuts R across a gravel berm and into a canopy of young alder and blackberry. Nippers or lawn shears can be handy if nobody else has been through lately.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : No Name Crags : West Wall
By: Eric Hirst When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: Rock quality here is "modest" unfortunately. The routes here are a fun way to round out your day, but so far nothing here approaches the quality of Chris Henson's cluster of routes on the Main Wall. Sorry 'bout that.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Wildest Dreams (5.12a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Our 68m rope would not have been long enough to rap or lower from the 4th pitch, although a full 70m rope would have been just enough. I used Chris' old fixed rope as a handline to lead through to the forest above. We removed Chris' rope, but the mossy/chossy top-out pitch should still be mostly pretty easy 4th class climbing, as long as it's dry.

Specifics on the thin gear:
  • A few small brass nuts
  • A #2 (red) LoweBall/Camp Ballnut is very nice for the crux of p1.
  • 3-4 @POU...
 more >>


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Photo
By: Eric Hirst When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Nicely cropped! I'm pretty sure I'm standing in a runner by that point. That pitch is easily aided with 3-4 purple (0) TCUs and a runner. People who actually make a serious attempt to free the thing report using a mix of grey (00) and purple TCUs.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Millenium Falcon (5.11a)
By: Eric Hirst When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: The 11a sport pitch appeared very dirty this weekend, a side effect of cleaning on the new (and excellent) Sunset Strip route which starts just R of MF and intersects with it in several places. You can easily bypass the muck by climbing portions of Sunset Strip (10d) instead.

(SS topo is easy to Google, but beware of the final "5.9" chimney on that one -- it's beastly.)


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Upper Town Wall : ... : Lovin' Arms (5.10b/c)
By: Eric Hirst When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: Finally topped out on this one yesterday, more than 20 years (!) after I first tried it. Great line, and, with the chimney variation on P2, quite a bit easier than Davis Holland.

Taking a suggestion from the Davis Holland comments, we brought 4 green 3/4 Camalots, and were able to place most or all of them on almost all 6 pitches of DH/LA. I thought the first 20 feet of P1 was the crux of LA. There were some scary blocks directly above the belay in the chimney version of P2. P3 was Type I Fun@... more >>


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