Contributed Comments |
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Clutch and Cruise (5.8)
By: Eric G. When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really don't know how to evaluate the big tree that is slung as an anchor, but it is well-rooted by basically one giant root and overhangs the cliff with no support from directly underneath it, looks very dead but seemed to be sprouting green leaves, and is covered in deep wood-pecker holes. The rock up there is chossy too.
IMO, this route is awesome for like 30 or 40 feet, and then, not so much.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : No Glow (5.9)
By: Eric G. When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun second pitch and, although the crux is well protected, make sure your second can handle a 5.5ish unprotected traverse that could send them to a nasty swing. It looks like double ropes could completely alleviate this problem and would give your second more options post-crux as well.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Airy Aria (5.8)
By: Eric G. When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: First pitch is awesome, but I thought the traverse was PG and sets your follower up for a potentially long swing. Also, I had no rope drag problems going from the bolts to the top in one pitch.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wonderland (5.8)
By: Eric G. When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt is gross. So rusty it's bright orange.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Photo
By: Eric G. When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: And the belayer's right arm was promptly severed...
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Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff... : Vector (5.8+)
By: Eric G. When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super "G" and I felt like I wrestled an alligator afterwards, but that's probably because I exhausted myself placing too much gear.
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mount Washington : Huntington Ravine : Northeast Ridge of the Pinn... (5.7) : Photo
By: Eric G. When: Mar 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: wow!
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Lichenbrau (5.7 PG13)
By: Eric G. When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: An under-appreciated gem if done in one pitch. Not "PG-13." Save a red camalot for the section preceding the bolt.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Turbocharge (5.10a)
By: Eric G. When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun and safe. Yellow alien very nice for the crux.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Pegasus (5.7+)
By: Eric G. When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somewhere near the crap pin, a probably-good-enough yellow alien can be very delicately placed.
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Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff... : Broadway (5.8)
By: Eric G. When: Jul 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the pro was awful up to the 1/3 point. You're putting a lot of faith in a small nut in crappy traprock. PG-13.
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Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff... : Wishbone (5.7)
By: Eric G. When: Jul 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No the chockstone is still there--it's hard to tell that you can sling it until you get above it. I thought slinging the chockstone was key for keeping it "G"
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Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff... : Wiessner Crack (5.8)
By: Eric G. When: Jul 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: crux pro is outstanding.
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Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff... : YMC Route (5.9)
By: Eric G. When: Jul 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bring a few extra wires in the small sizes. I sure wish I did!
The above-mentioned pin is in place a bit left of the regular line.
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Location: Eastern States : Lake Champlain DWS Pic : Photo
By: Eric G. When: Apr 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this off the "overthrust" area?
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Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Hush, Mama Thrush (5.8)
By: Eric G. When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Varied, exciting, long, and just fun. Don't miss the sneaky nut placement up higher on the right when you start ascending the ramp.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Frosted Mug (5.9)
By: Eric G. When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I could physically bend the left anchor bolt upwards with little more than body weight. Tremedendous elvis legs while struggling to verify the quality of my placements.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Rockaholic (5.8)
By: Eric G. When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anchor is now two nice bolts.
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