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Member Since: Jul 16, 2011
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
Contact Eric Chabot

Point Rank: # 5,134
Total Points: 100
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 7
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Eric Chabot been climbing?










Contributions


All 413 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 65 | Posts 264 | Stars 45 | Ratings 34
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Ibex : Wolfenstein Rock
By: Eric Chabot When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: As of 4/2/2016, a pair of Prairie Falcons have taken up residence in the Wolfenstein Buttress. They were observed making territorial flights and are or will be nesting in one of the cracks or cavities on the wall. Consider avoiding this formation and climbing elsewhere to give them the space they need.

My guess is that climbing on the Newlywed wall (or further right) or on the Shadow Buttress (or anything left) is less likely to disturb them. Keep an eye out for them, and if they make repeated... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex
By: Eric Chabot When: Apr 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: As of 4/2/2016, a pair of Prairie Falcons have taken up residence in the Wolfenstein Buttress. They were observed making territorial flights and are or will be nesting in one of the cracks or cavities on the wall. Consider avoiding this formation and climbing elsewhere to give them the space they need.

My guess is that climbing on the Newlywed wall (or further right) or on the Shadow Buttress (or anything left) is less likely to disturb them. Keep an eye out for them, and if they make repeated... more >>


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : The Valley of Zion : The Head of Blob
By: Eric Chabot When: Mar 14, 2016

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Comments: Today I and another HawkWatch International researcher observed an active Red-Tailed Hawk nest in this area, with a bird sitting on eggs. Climbing routes at any of the crags listed in this area may disturb them and disrupt their attempt to breed this year. If you observe a raptor circling overhead & shrieking, or flying away from its nest, you are likely disturbing it. Please consider climbing elsewhere even though there is no official closure. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions a... more >>


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : The Valley of Zion : The Blob
By: Eric Chabot When: Mar 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Today I and another HawkWatch International researcher observed an active Red-Tailed Hawk nest in this area, with a bird sitting on eggs. Climbing routes at any of the crags listed in this area may disturb them and disrupt their attempt to breed this year. If you observe a raptor circling overhead & shrieking, or flying away from its nest, you are likely disturbing it. Please consider climbing elsewhere even though there is no official closure. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions a... more >>


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : The Valley of Zion : Blob's Your Uncle
By: Eric Chabot When: Mar 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Today I and another HawkWatch International researcher observed an active Red-Tailed Hawk nest in this area, with a bird sitting on eggs. Climbing routes at any of the crags listed in this area may disturb them and disrupt their attempt to breed this year. If you observe a raptor circling overhead & shrieking, or flying away from its nest, you are likely disturbing it. Please consider climbing elsewhere even though there is no official closure. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions a... more >>


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : The Valley of Zion : Blob's Your Aunt
By: Eric Chabot When: Mar 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Today I and another HawkWatch International researcher observed an active Red-Tailed Hawk nest in this area, with a bird sitting on eggs. Climbing routes at any of the crags listed in this area may disturb them and disrupt their attempt to breed this year. If you observe a raptor circling overhead & shrieking, or flying away from its nest, you are likely disturbing it. Please consider climbing elsewhere even though there is no official closure. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions a... more >>


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : The Valley of Zion
By: Eric Chabot When: Mar 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Today I and another HawkWatch International researcher observed an active Red-Tailed Hawk nest in this area, with a bird sitting on eggs. Climbing routes at any of the crags listed in this area may disturb them and disrupt their attempt to breed this year. If you observe a raptor circling overhead & shrieking, or flying away from its nest, you are likely disturbing it. Please consider climbing elsewhere even though there is no official closure. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions a... more >>


Location: UT : Ibex : Syringe : Lakeshore Loon (5.11)
By: Eric Chabot When: Jan 22, 2016

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Comments: Can link 1-2, or 2-3. The bulge on p1 feels committing. p2 is much easier than the others, but has some substantial runouts on easier terrain (hard moves are well protected though) The route is great, I do it almost every time I go to ibex.


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : 88+ : Contact (V5)
By: Eric Chabot When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: A trad climber's boulder problem. Many ways to do this one, craftiness will accomplish what can also be done with brute force on this problem. Fun to work, safe landing (2 pads are very comfortable) and easy on the skin.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Black Hole (5.10a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Aug 6, 2015

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Comments: Recently retrobolted, this climb is now totally G rated


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3) : Photo
By: Eric Chabot When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: throw in some duct tape between the cans and your got yourself a wizard staff


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fantasy Area : Aesthetica (5.11c)
By: Eric Chabot When: Jun 24, 2015

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Comments: I was nervous to try this route, since it was one of the harder ones I had gotten on at that point. I got some great beta from some other visiting climbers, which worked for this and many many other routes: "If a hold looks good, just toss to it!"

Such an awesome climb


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Gallery : The Preacher's Daughter (5.11-)
By: Eric Chabot When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: I didn't feel scared of the 'loose rock' on this climb. It seems to have cleaned up well and it is a great route with long moves between awesome jugged out holds (most better than they look from the ground).


Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Black Mamba (5.11c)
By: Eric Chabot When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: To clean after leading the whole thing, it helps to clip your rope (climber's side) into one of the midway anchor's fixed biners as a directional while being lowered. This allows you to be lowered straight down above your remaining bolts and clean them without penduluming all over the place.

Fantastic route, probably the best I have done at Rumney. Haven't done Crusher yet though so we'll see!


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall : Screaming Yellow Zonkers Cr... (5.11c)
By: Eric Chabot When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: So so fun!!! Fingerlocks like jugs to a burly crux at the top that for me involved a rugged (but solid) fist jam. Can't wait to get back and lead this thing clean.

A couple harder sections intermixed with more solid locks and jams with good horizontals. Milk your rests and you will send.


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall : Ace of Spades (5.9+)
By: Eric Chabot When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Safer, cleaner, and IMO better than queen of hearts to the left, sharing the same anchor.

As of this comment, fixed anchor consists of 3 fixed nuts and a laughably small tree/bush tied off with old cordelette to a couple oval biners. Can be backed up with a #2 camalot or other gear.


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall : Queen of Hearts (5.9+)
By: Eric Chabot When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Lots of hollow flakes on this one made for a spooky lead. Next time I will TR this after leading Ace of spades (better moves, better gear).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Flying & Drinking and Drink... (5.10a PG13)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: nuts, double set of c3s and single set regular cams up to #2 will sew it up. I'd say PG since the beginning of the traverse out of the corner at the start felt a little hairy and the finishing jug haul did too, but the 5.9 and 5.10 moves you can have a bunch of (small) gear at your face if you want...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : North End : The Thorn (5.11a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 25, 2014

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Comments: What an awesome route! Steep jugs start things off, and the delicious positive finger locks got me hooting and hollering after the tough (but short) thin hands section. Good active rests can be found on hand jams and locks for the middle part of the route, better use em cuz the bouldery top is physical and committing.

Gear is there for the whole route, some sections the rock sounded a bit hollow--not having taken many falls on cams in schist I wasn't sure how trustworthy some of the placements ... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : North End : The Rose (5.10a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 25, 2014

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Comments: Rose crack's bolts need to go/be moved. The positioning is terrible. I couldn't even imagine reaching them while on lead, and it seems like they'd expose a seconding climber to a weird swing during the topout.

Led the thorn yesterday and I agree that the bolt anchor took some spice out of the top out. I had already hung extended slings on the bolts from working the route on TR, so it was easy to clip mid top out. I felt that without preplaced slings you still have to pretty much top out the rou... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Plumb Line Gully : Plumb Line (5.10a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 12, 2014

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Comments: My partner pulled 2 nuts and decked on to me falling from the low crux of this climb. Place those nuts well, and extend them so they aren't getting levered out if you should fall past em.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : Drop, Fly, or Die (5.11a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 12, 2014

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Comments: So so sick. I found the hardest individual moves closest to the deck, the traverse didn't feel bad.

With a 70m, link the pitches like Barber did on the FA! Or at least belay your second up and give pitch 2 a go...it adds another 30-40 ft of fun climbing at 5.10. In its current state it is rough, rugged and raw with a hard to read crux off the belay, much lichen/moss and just a touch of choss to keep things interesting.

You can rap off the top with a 70 to the ground, probably could lower off ... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : On The Loose (5.10a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 12, 2014

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Comments: this climb is an amazing, mystical, buttery, hand journey, with great pro in a variety of sizes. I might have placed a single #3, you don't need 3 (or even 2, or even 1...) or them.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : To Air is Human (5.10d)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: How runout/scary is the slab after turning the corner?


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Popeye and the Raven (5.10c)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: led this the morning after rain. The bottom 10 feet of the climb were soaking wet but easily aided on nuts/c3s. There might be a cam placement above the last bolt but I'd already placed the one I wanted to use. So the top was a little spicy, especially when I grabbed a huge rotten log to top out on and almost pulled it down. Great climb, fun and technical stemming.


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