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Member Since: Jul 16, 2011
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
Contact Eric Chabot


Point Rank: # 4,654
Total Points: 90
Last Year: 51
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Eric Chabot been climbing?










Contributions


All 290 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 60 | Posts 150 | Stars 43 | Ratings 33
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Devirginized

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 50'

UT : Ibex : Newlywed Area

May 26, 2014

Wolfenstein

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b (2)

Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300'

UT : Ibex : Wolfenstein Rock

Apr 20, 2014

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
We found the new wall that old man told us about!

We found the new wall that old man told us about!

General Climbing : The emotions of climbing. P... : Post

Sep 6, 2013

Marshfield Corners, p3

Marshfield Corners, p3

Eastern States : The best cracks of the nort... : Post

Feb 10, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Gallery : The Preacher's Daughter (5.11-)
By: Eric Chabot When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: I didn't feel scared of the 'loose rock' on this climb. It seems to have cleaned up well and it is a great route with long moves between awesome jugged out holds (most better than they look from the ground).


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Black Mamba (5.11b/c)
By: Eric Chabot When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: To clean after leading the whole thing, it helps to clip your rope (climber's side) into one of the midway anchor's fixed biners as a directional while being lowered. This allows you to be lowered straight down above your remaining bolts and clean them without penduluming all over the place.

Fantastic route, probably the best I have done at Rumney. Haven't done Crusher yet though so we'll see!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fantasy Area : Aesthetica (5.11c)
By: Eric Chabot When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: The beta (as some friendly other climbers told us): if it looks good, just toss to it!

sick sick sick


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall : Screaming Yellow Zonkers Cr... (5.11c)
By: Eric Chabot When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: So so fun!!! Fingerlocks like jugs to a burly crux at the top that for me involved a rugged (but solid) fist jam. Can't wait to get back and lead this thing clean.

A couple harder sections intermixed with more solid locks and jams with good horizontals. Milk your rests and you will send.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall : Ace of Spades (5.9+)
By: Eric Chabot When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Safer, cleaner, and IMO better than queen of hearts to the left, sharing the same anchor.

As of this comment, fixed anchor consists of 3 fixed nuts and a laughably small tree/bush tied off with old cordelette to a couple oval biners. Can be backed up with a #2 camalot or other gear.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall : Queen of Hearts (5.9+)
By: Eric Chabot When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: Lots of hollow flakes on this one made for a spooky lead. Next time I will TR this after leading Ace of spades (better moves, better gear).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Flying & Drinking and Drink... (5.10a PG13)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: nuts, double set of c3s and single set regular cams up to #2 will sew it up. I'd say PG since the beginning of the traverse out of the corner at the start felt a little hairy and the finishing jug haul did too, but the 5.9 and 5.10 moves you can have a bunch of (small) gear at your face if you want...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : North End : The Thorn (5.11a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 25, 2014

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Comments: What an awesome route! Steep jugs start things off, and the delicious positive finger locks got me hooting and hollering after the tough (but short) thin hands section. Good active rests can be found on hand jams and locks for the middle part of the route, better use em cuz the bouldery top is physical and committing.

Gear is there for the whole route, some sections the rock sounded a bit hollow--not having taken many falls on cams in schist I wasn't sure how trustworthy some of the placements ... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : North End : The Rose (5.10a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 25, 2014

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Comments: Rose crack's bolts need to go/be moved. The positioning is terrible. I couldn't even imagine reaching them while on lead, and it seems like they'd expose a seconding climber to a weird swing during the topout.

Led the thorn yesterday and I agree that the bolt anchor took some spice out of the top out. I had already hung extended slings on the bolts from working the route on TR, so it was easy to clip mid top out. I felt that without preplaced slings you still have to pretty much top out the rou... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Plumb Line Gully : Plumb Line (5.10a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 12, 2014

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Comments: My partner pulled 2 nuts and decked on to me falling from the low crux of this climb. Place those nuts well, and extend them so they aren't getting levered out if you should fall past em.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : Drop, Fly, or Die (5.11a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 12, 2014

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Comments: So so sick. I found the hardest individual moves closest to the deck, the traverse didn't feel bad.

With a 70m, link the pitches like Barber did on the FA! Or at least belay your second up and give pitch 2 a go...it adds another 30-40 ft of fun climbing at 5.10. In its current state it is rough, rugged and raw with a hard to read crux off the belay, much lichen/moss and just a touch of choss to keep things interesting.

You can rap off the top with a 70 to the ground, probably could lower off ... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : On The Loose (5.10a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 12, 2014

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Comments: this climb is an amazing, mystical, buttery, hand journey, with great pro in a variety of sizes. I might have placed a single #3, you don't need 3 (or even 2, or even 1...) or them.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : To Air is Human (5.10d)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: How runout/scary is the slab after turning the corner?


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Popeye and the Raven (5.10c)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: led this the morning after rain. The bottom 10 feet of the climb were soaking wet but easily aided on nuts/c3s. There might be a cam placement above the last bolt but I'd already placed the one I wanted to use. So the top was a little spicy, especially when I grabbed a huge rotten log to top out on and almost pulled it down. Great climb, fun and technical stemming.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Alphabet Rock : Meat Grinder (5.10a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: this climb would fit right in at Vedauwoo (where it would get a 5.8... ;) ). Might be worth taping up for this one if you are questioning your jamming skills. Great jams are all there, and nothing too flaring even, but the rock is pretty rough compared to other 11worth hand cracks.

Gear beta: Can be done with a standard rack of nuts and cams to #3 (save your #2 for just after the crux to prevent decking out on the ledge below it, and a #1 for the finishing hand crac... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Raging Waters (5.11a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: Great climb, good gear the whole way (I took the ride off the slopers at the top on a solid bd .4 in a horizontal after getting tunnel vision and pumping out). This was the first 11 I ever led on gear and I am super glad I hopped on it!!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Crack A Smile (5.10a)
By: Eric Chabot When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: I didn't climb this...the guidebook I had hyped it up and I looked at it and was actually kind of grossed out and decided to climb raging waters instead. Thankfully there was an older dude there to tell me to 'go for it' since I'd never hopped on a 5.11 trad route before. This might well be a fun route though, diminished by the other awesome climbs right next to it


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End : Kiddy Crack (5.7)
By: Eric Chabot When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: Lieback if you dare. My partner, an experienced crack climber and trad leader, popped out of the crux due to the super-polished nature of the left side of the crack. Lots of feet on both faces.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End : Kiddy Crack (5.7) : Photo
By: Eric Chabot When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: You know you're cruxin on a crack when... you bust out the super secret double gaston beta~!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End : Recluse (5.10d)
By: Eric Chabot When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route. I heard that with some tricky beta the crux is 10+. Felt really really hard.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Armed and Dangerous, and Of... (5.10b)
By: Eric Chabot When: Jun 27, 2014

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Comments: A great line, much deserving of hype, but clusterphobia is even better in my opinion. Get on them both!


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