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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: eMurdock When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work Luis!! You sure Scott A hasn't climbed 6 or more routes. Seems like he may have, maybe not? Dean Brault and I did 3 routes in ~4 hours without simul-climbing (and running off the descent) about 5 or 6 years ago, so I can see how 8 would be possible with a fixed rappel. I remember Dean looking at me and shaking his head after I got up to the belay on the first pitch. My heart rate was up from climbing fast. He said I needed to climb faster. Dean was so smooth but I was pretty exhausted ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Isle of You (Ewe) : Trad Rock : Isle of You (5.9)
By: eMurdock When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FBA (first barefoot ascent) 11/8/09 - Andy B. Andy did it with no shoes, no chalk, and with a wicked hangover.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Sun Spot Crags : Photo (Copy)
By: eMurdock When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry, I posted this topo several years ago when there were only a couple routes at this crag. I was not very forward thinking and believed that the area was tapped and that the rock quality was not conducive to more routes. Turns out there were 20 or 30 more really good routes put up. The other topo is pretty comprehensive. I can't delete this topo because it was posted before MP.com was up and running. Any admin guy should feel free to delete this.
Warning: The name of this crag is now the G... more >>
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Location: AZ : Arivaca Lake : I dont Know (V1)
By: eMurdock When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dale,
I think I met you a couple weeks ago at Munchkinland. You guys were happily clipping bolts that day I think. Huh?
Anyway, I would love to know where these Arivaca routes are because we have family there. Don't assume Tucson folks won't walk too far to routes. There are plenty of us who love new routes and who have the desire and fitness to climb in the backcountry. So please share your route info or don't bother taunting people online.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Super Mega Secret, Show and...
By: eMurdock When: Oct 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Erica B. redpointed Helium (5.12) at the Chessman today!! Another 12 for the tribe.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : It Wall : It Crack (5.11b)
By: eMurdock When: Oct 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this last week after not doing it for almost a decade. The 'new' anchors are equipped with rap links but are way too far back to be of any use for rapping (they are fine for setting up an anchor and walking off). I am going to move them closer to the edge on the upper block so that the route can be set up after a lead or TR with a couple draws. I will make sure it does not preclude the topout moves. It will just save rope wear and a little bit of time. This is a good place to run ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : North Fin : Nancy's Thumb Tower (Regula... (5.4)
By: eMurdock When: Jun 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: huh. i actually think it is a pretty cool thing. it's a really worthwhile addition to the super mellow solo/scramble circuit because it gets you to the top of a spire and it is possible to downclimb.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Whale Dome : Dem Bones (5.10 R)
By: eMurdock When: May 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 2 and Pitch 3 of this description can easily be linked with a 60m rope to make a 170 foot pitch. Also, the original route does not bust left to meet Moby Dick or climb past any bolts up high. Pitch 4 (or 5 in the description above) climbs up and right up the dinosaur-spine-looking dike of competent rock. I think that is the routes namesake.
In addition, and oddly, if you are using Kerry's backcountry guide, note that the photo of the climber on Dem Bones second pitch is backwards.
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Location: AZ : The Mustang : BeeWare! (5.10)
By: eMurdock When: Apr 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I remember that Jim, Eric and/or Dean bolted this and I happened to walk by and they gifted me the FA. This is not a bomb if the bees aren't active.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Ripple Wall : Fear of Frying (5.10)
By: eMurdock When: Mar 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: PG-13??? This is a really safe sport route that is a great warm up for the harder routes to the left or the really nice cracks to the right. There is a section that doesn't have a bolt every body length, but you can easily plug a cam or two to make it super safe. As some people keep bumping up the ratings on older routes, others seem to be exagerating the seriousness of routes. If this is PG-13, what routes are not? Also, I think EFR put this up with Kevin? or maybe John? EFR might remember ... more >>
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Location: AZ : La Milagrosa Canyon : Water World ?? : Hydroponics (5.11)
By: eMurdock When: Feb 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jimbo: great name, finally a drug innuendo out of you. I was super psyched to try this before the drill dust could even settle. This route will absolutely be one of the Milagrosa classics after the crunchies up high are cleaned up. Kickin' myself for waking up late and missing out on the FA party. Thanks for the work. I owe you a Guiness.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Sun Spot Crags
By: eMurdock When: Feb 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did not say that he should solo up to the bolt. Must have misunderstood me. I may have said that it would be a solo up to the bolt.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Steep : Spiderman (5.11)
By: eMurdock When: Jun 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: John, thanks for the wonderful route.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Steep : Fat Bastard (5.11+)
By: eMurdock When: Jun 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Three climbers, including Sparky, agreed it is very soft for 11d but pretty fun. Easier than Spiderman.
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Location: AZ : Isolation Canyon
By: eMurdock When: Apr 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mark: what's the point of posting it if it is "show and tell only". You don't put a beer in front of a recovering alcoholic. By the way, Paola gave me your info and I'll give you a call when I get to flag. Cheers, Erik.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Boot Hill : Cheers (5.10a)
By: eMurdock When: Mar 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I will try not to be a jerk, but this route should not be a "featured" Mt. Lemmon route. It is a fine, yet forgettable route. It is not comparable to other high quality routes of the same grade (for example Steel Crazy, Space Cowboy, R-4 or even Old Man). A route deserves the highest aesthetic rating if it has engaging moves, good rock, good position and good length. This relatively short route climbs the side of a scrappy cliff on some jugs. Visitors to Tucson, or even locals, should not b... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon
By: eMurdock When: Mar 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Check out the Arizona forum section for information on the first annual Catalina Climb n' Climb. During the annual event, you will bicycle past many Mt. Lemmon crags on your way to Rap Rock. Rumor has it that even Rhicard is, or will be, secretly training for this event.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : Cerro Torre Tower : 80 Proof Roof (5.10b)
By: eMurdock When: Mar 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb could deserve a PG or R. Very high-value, memorable climb.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Sun Spot Crags : Solar Flare (5.11)
By: eMurdock When: Feb 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cres, have you climbed this on gear? It has many unprotectable sections where the bolts are the only way to go. Just because a feature is a crack, does not mean it protects well.
I was not saying "regardless of ethics.." as an excuse. An excuse for what? I was just saying that the line is very good for Tucson standards. By the way, some of the bolts were recently moved to make the opening 20 feet less spicy. But I assume you would ignore the first couple fixed pieces anyway. Have fun.
... more >>
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Location: AZ : Gate's Pass
By: eMurdock When: Feb 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jon, are you thinking of the lower boulder? Regardless, the newest set of bolts on the upper boulder were not where Murray placed bolts and they were half hanging out of the rock. Have you seen them for yourself?
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Location: AZ : Gate's Pass
By: eMurdock When: Nov 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone placed two bolts on top of the large upper boulder with the sweet overhanging section. These boulders have been climbed for a LONG time without these bolts. The advent of pads has made the landings safer so there is absolutely no need to toprope a 12 foot boulder. Beside the fact that there is no need for these bolts, they are poorly placed and are both spinners. I am certainly not against bolts, but these are lame and unnecessary. If you really want a TR, you could sling the boulde... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rappel Rock : Black Quacker (5.7)
By: eMurdock When: May 23, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although the first pitch is a sandbag at 5.6, it is not heinous. It protects very well on small to medium cams and slung chockstones; no need for large gear. This is good practice for routes in the Sierra or the Valley.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Lost Wall
By: eMurdock When: May 17, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The cliff is south facing and gets full sun.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Chimney Rock : Centerpiece (5.10-)
By: eMurdock When: Oct 4, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the Lemmon, this is a standard 10a crack. A 10a climber with good crack climbing skills does not have problems with this straightforward crack climb. Unfortunately, Lemmon is not the place to get those skills.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Swim Fin : Ego Donor (5.9)
By: eMurdock When: Sep 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is not a particularly difficult 5.9 and it is definitely one that a climber could push their limits on. There are good bolts every couple feet at the start. Overall, there are not many 5.9s on the mountain this safe.
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