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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Blood Diamond (5.11c)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard to rate this route. Hard at the top of the dihedral, but otherwise not 5.11. Surprisingly good slab climbing at the bottom.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair I, II, III, and... : Goldirocks : Stress Fracture (5.10b)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Jul 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the gear easy to place and bomber. It is a short route, but it is nice to be able to climb a vertical finger crack at Vedauwoo. Since the route is so short, thus the ground is close, I would bring at least two or three finger sized pieces and two hand sized pieces (one for the bottom and one for the top).
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Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Cave Creek : Involuntary Wall, Flat Fiel... : Stems and Seeds (5.9+)
By: Elijah Flenner When: May 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mostly thin stuff, but one larger cam for the top. It has been 10 years since I have been on it, but I think a gold Camalot does the trick.
Great climb and a must do if you find it dry.
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Location: MO : Andromeda Sprain
By: Elijah Flenner When: Mar 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would just like to clarify that this area has ALWAYS been closed. People have been climbing there for many years, but most (all?) never had the permission of the land owners. Good luck in getting it open; for the first time. It would be fantastic if Andromeda was officially open to climbing.
Note that Mountain Project has always listed this area as closed.
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Location: MO : Capen Park : Three Horns (5.8)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Mar 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The description is a little off since the first roof fell down several years ago. Just climb straight up. Lots of loose rock, but you are at Capen. I would say to avoid this climb at most areas, but if you have climbed everything else the movement is fun.
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Location: MO : Providence : Slimestone Cowboy (5.12a)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Nov 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great and sustained route with powerful moves down low followed by thin moves to finish. One of the most sustained routes of its grade in mid-missouri, and the finish is very hard in the summer heat. The bottom might be somewhat reach dependent.
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Location: MO : Capen Park : The Open Book (5.10+)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Oct 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few comments on the description. There are several bolts on the top that can be used for a top rope, and you should not use just one. The route is about 35 feet.
The route takes finger and hand sized gear at the roof. I have also seen someone place, and fall on, a large cam right under the roof. After the roof, the gear is sparse (some may say that it does not exist).
The upper crux is probably the best crux sequence at Capen Park.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Spelunk Spire : Wrist Ranger (5.9-)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Aug 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the crack more like fists to off fists. I had a hard time finding solid fist jams up near the top, but there is enough good feet that they were not needed.
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Ren and Stimpy : Powered Toast Man (5.12a/b)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Apr 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I first arrived at the crux I thought that the route was stiff for 12b, but after figuring out the crux move the route seemed easy for 12b. A great and interesting crux section on small holds. This route is short, but good.
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East : First Time Up (5.8+)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Sep 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think this is First Time Up, but rather the climb called Manked in the Chad Watkins and Tom Hancock guide book.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Flatirons : Call the Copps (WI3 M3 R) : Photo
By: Elijah Flenner When: Mar 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't ice climb, but the pictures make me want to climb this. What an amazing looking climb.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Jan 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: After climbing this route on 1/09/06, I wanted to provide a warning on some of the gear mentioned above. The chockstone on pitch 2 is about to fall out. When I got to the chimney, the chockstone was slung with a piece of webbing and a cord. I clipped the cord and pull tested it. The cord ended up at my knees and the chockstone dropped a little bit. It should not be trusted. Fortunately, the gear there is great (I placed a 3.5 and a 4.0 camalot). I also could not find a good placement on ... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : 420s : The Warmup (V1-2)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Jan 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is my favorite warm up at the 420's. The grade is dependent on height. I believe it is V3 if it starting sitting on the lowest holds possible and hard V2 if it is started from right under the roof.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Durrance (5.7)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Jul 19, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route, but a few comments. The first two pitches can be run together with a 60 meter rope. I had 15 feet left at the end, so my beleyer would have had to climb up a ways with a 50 meter rope. Bring a varied rack. I heard about all the offwidth, so brought alot of large gear only to end up at the belays with alot of large gear. The crux pitch will take anything from small aliens to a #5 Camalot.
Also, don't commit to the right crack on the Durrance Crack pitch to soon. It was ea... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Beaver Fever (5.11)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Jan 20, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: No where close to the difficulty of Gyro Captain.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Cracking the Code (5.11b)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Jan 9, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also believe that 11b is on par with other sport routes in Boulder Canyon. The climbing is not powerful, but good use of your feet is key.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : 420s : F.A.S.T. (fuckin awesome st... (V8)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Nov 25, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my opinion there are three boulder problems that start in the same place. Start sitting with your hands on slopers right next to Circadian Rythm. FAST traverses along the lip without using the good pinch hold on the face, continues around the corner, drops down onto the big rail and finishes left and up, i.e. it finishes on the Puffing Stone Traverse. I believe FAST is V7/8, but I have yet to finish it. It seems just a little harder than Seargent Woody at Carter.
You can start on FAST an... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : 420s : Hank's Arete (V4)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Nov 25, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments:
There are two ways to do this, from a sitstart, or start standing with a left hand on the better sidepull crimp. I believe the sitstart is V5, and the standing start is V4.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Pick Pocket (5.12a)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Nov 25, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: It has been a while since I did this route, but it felt a little easy for 12a.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Take the Termites Bowling (5.11c)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Oct 7, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the route with the tree you are referring to is called mosquito burrito, and is listed in the Bowling Alley climbs. There is no tree by this route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Crash Test Blondes (5.11c)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Sep 30, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this route on 9/29/02, and the large sidepull between the first and second bolt is loose. It does not feel loose when I was yarding on it, but when I let go I heard a sound that sounded like rock against rock. I then tried to move the hold and found that I could.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Beaver Fever (5.11)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Aug 21, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe that 11a might be a little sandbagged for sport climbing in Boulder Canyon. I have not climbed any of the routes you mentioned above, but the day I did the route, my wife and a friend also did the route. My wife, Michelle, has never climbed a 5.11c, let alone 12c. She fell once, and that was past the crux. My friend, Ryan, did not fall at all, and at the time he had to make 12a projects. We all thought this route was 5.11. I thought it was about the same grade as The Joker at Eas... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Extension Boulder : Sargent Woody's (V7)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Jul 30, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sometime in the spring of 2002, a hold broke on this problem/route making it harder. The hold was a sidepull right before the topout on Rocky Top. It is now much more sustained at the end, and a more difficult line. However, in my opinion, it is even better than before.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : North Slab : Big Egos, Little Dicks (V7)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Apr 16, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The holds do not look like they are chipped. There are two variations to this line. The one described above is the easier of the two. The other variation uses the big ledge after the traverse for feet, but you keep your hands higher on small sidepulls and edges.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Meteor Rhoadblock (5.12a/b)
By: Elijah Flenner When: Mar 14, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb does not look very good from the ground, but it is sustained and is the best short 5.12 I have done in Boulder Canyon. It would also make a great first 5.12. None of the moves are all that hard, good clipping stances, and the bolts are very close together.
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