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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : The Sting (5.8+)
By: Eli Kramer When: Aug 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also recommend the 5.9 start. Fun moves.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web : Wheelin N' Dealin (5.13c R)
By: Eli Kramer When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congratulations Matt! Good to see more balls to the wall routes going up in the Dacks. Lord knows I can't climb it, but the cliff isn't going anywhere. Maybe someday!
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Location: VT : Deer Leap : The Monkey (5.8+)
By: Eli Kramer When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another great route. I found it to be pumpy but not as technical as the Center Crack. Great hands through the traverse and good feet for most of it. Pulling the roof is the crux, but the unprotected move off the ground is certainly a 5.8 move.
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Location: VT : Deer Leap : Center Crack (5.7)
By: Eli Kramer When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would give this 5.7+ for the sustained difficulty of the climb without the kind of rests one often expects. Spectacular finger crack with thin feet in places. The route finishes on the right after the split, the left is the 5.8 direct finish. Worth a visit to the cliff on its own.
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Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : Pinnacle Rock : Right Wing Wall : Zambezi Hatchet Head (5.8)
By: Eli Kramer When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Top notch 5.8 with consistent technical moves for the first 3/4 of its length.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Easily Aroused (5.9)
By: Eli Kramer When: Oct 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looked like one of the 5.7s from the ground so hopped right on. Some thought provoking moves just after clipping the second bolt. Our group consensus was a stiff 5.8 but we aren't used to Rumney grades.
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Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff... : Wet Wall (5.6)
By: Eli Kramer When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the route as described here, but I think from the Falcon guidebook that the description given is for the Wet Wall - Knights Move linkup. Our book described the end to Wet Wall as finishing on the face right of the corner. Still a good climb with plenty of pro.
Placing gear at the start is not hard, but a fall there might still result in a sprained ankle.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Afternoon Delight (5.5)
By: Eli Kramer When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Takes some creative placements to protect the climb. 5.5
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Rogers Rock : The Matrix (5.8-)
By: Eli Kramer When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good slab route in a perfect setting. Good friction on featured rock.
Start: 25 feet left of Little Finger on the leftmost seem.
Pro: Bolt protected, Adirondack style, a bit run out. PG
1) Go up the left seem and through the overlap onto the face and the first bolt. Climb the sustained slab to a fixed anchor.
2) (crux) Stem above the belay and then up over a bulge then continue on dimpled rock to the second belay at a good stance.
3) Up the slab then easier climbing up and right to a righ... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Rogers Rock : Little Finger (5.5)
By: Eli Kramer When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed, two ropes if you can. There is a fixed anchor (two pitons) at the end of the first pitch. I didn't use any gear bigger than a .75 Camalot, though you could probably place a #1.
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Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff... : Wiessner Slab (5.3)
By: Eli Kramer When: Sep 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack on the left side of the slab protects well.
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Location: Chris Duca : Climbing : Photo
By: Eli Kramer When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do you need to do that to get to the cliff or is there an easier crossing?
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Jewels and Gems : North Country Club Crack (5.6)
By: Eli Kramer When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really great climb. Right leaning crack with options. Takes good pro. Worth stopping at Jewels and Gems just for this climb. Guidebook lists the climb at 70 ft.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Sandstone Buttress : Gunky (5.8 PG13)
By: Eli Kramer When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tom's right. I did it learning how to lead. Placements were solid and not hard to find.
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