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Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.


Member Since: Aug 12, 2001
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 854
Total Points: 747
Last Year: 102
Last 30 Days: 2
64 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Eli Helmuth been climbing?










Contributions


All 584 | Routes 18 | Areas 2 | Photos 89 | Page Improvements | Comments 92 | Posts 310 | Stars 48 | Ratings 25
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : South America : Ecuador : Banos Zoologico Sport Climb... : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Routes marked in photo in yellow start at far right to left: 12+, 12, 12-, 11+, 11 with the left routes seeing more traffic and the right ones barely touched the last decade, could use a little cleaning as this place gets dirty due to the nearby volcano and raging river at the base.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : I, Robot (5.7) : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Wrong dihedral, this one is 5.8R, and left is below the finger crack crux and starts at 5.6
I've seen a few folks pitch off this dihedral into the ground, once with broken vertebrae, ribs, etc.


Location: International : South America : Ecuador
By: Eli Helmuth When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments:


The area highlighted in this excellent video appears to be in the mountains nearby Cuenca which has a concentration of the most rock routes in Ecuador Along with the Banos zone (rio Pastaza Canyon), a few crags nearby Quito, the dream canyon nearby Chimborazo and the awesome crag of Cuyuja near Papallacta on the road into the Amazon. Trip report that includes some of these areas here... more >>


Location: Trad Climbing : "single Hitch Belay Escape" : Post : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: He's acting "injured" in this scenario while being tandem-rappelled to the ground, so a somber moment in his otherwise stellar career.


Location: International : South America : Ecuador : Banos Zoologico Sport Climb... : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: One of my favorite pitches of all time, location and history are a big part.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackin' the Johnson (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Feb 3, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, there's great gear just left of the bolt, not a problem to protect.


Location: Eli Helmuth : Bear's Den RMNP : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Feb 3, 2014

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Comments: Photo courtesy of Fred Marmsater


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Thumb : South Ridge of the Thumb (5.3 R)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Since 2012, there is a bolted anchor at the top of the second pitch of this route, 5' horizontal below the summit plateau. It is not equipped for rappelling.

The best rappel descent is either of two newer anchors with chains on the northwest corner of this cliff. The left one is just below a ledge (top of Rest in Peace) and harder to see. A belay out may be helpful to access for the first person. Both rappels are in the 30m range, so it is a good idea to put knots in the ends a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Black Crack (5.9)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Sep 1, 2013

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Comments: Sweet route in its current state. Somewhat slick like all of lower Castle Rock so make sure it's cool. Very solid RPs fit in below the pin, and you can place them from the shoulder scum or after clipping the pin if you're less of a fan of compression hardware. Just wish this route was longer at the 10a grade.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Thumb : Thumb Up My Arse (5.10+)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: I suggested the 5.10 grade to Nathan, but that might be redpoint vs. an onsight grade of 10+?

There's an old stuck orange cam which marks the hanging dihedral that has gear below and in it before you reach the first bolt- pretty much fall-line. This can also be the start for Pin Job vs. the harder crack start 2m to the left.

Anchor is exactly 29m on this one and can also be accessed easily by climbing past the Thumbs Up route anchor. This new anchor replaces the funky Pin Job anchor... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West...
By: Eli Helmuth When: Mar 24, 2013

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Comments: Since almost all of this rock is in RMNP, just beware that dogs are not allowed in the park which includes all of the crags listed plus the bouldering at Nicki's aka Elkland aka Monkey Hang.
Enjoy!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Flattop Mountain - S side : Dragon's Tail Couloir (WI2 M2)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Jan 2, 2013

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Comments: Just to be clear about the difficulties typically encountered on this route as the guidebooks and this website are far from accurate.

Since the rock climbing is on par with the 3rd class of Long's Peak Keyhole route, this is a 3rd class climb with snow up to 45 degrees in steepness for a few short sections.

Avg. snow angle for the couloir is in the 35 degree range.

In thirteen years of regular visits (mostly on skis), WI has never been seen and there is nothing in the M1 (5.7) range on this... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Storm Riders (5.10- R)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Jul 14, 2012

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Comments: Looks like you guys found a different version of this route as we had copious and gear throughout on solid stone. The only runout section was the wide crack, right-facing corner that defines the right side of the yellow tower on this wall.

Lots of room on these walls to wander and find all sorts of versions as every inch of this cliff is pretty much climbable.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Aquavelva - aka Headdress -... (5.9 WI5 M5)
By: Eli Helmuth When: May 30, 2012

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Comments: "Real jobs"...you must mean real stinky jobs!
Reading the route description, sounds like you guys were far right from any of the climbing we did in '99 as ours was 6 pitches and still a few to go to the top of the wall, all on steep terrain.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Renaissance Wall : Trials of Copernicus (P1) (5.11a/b)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: Great pitch for sure that deserves more traffic as a high quality 5.11 Lumpy crack.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : ... : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: Nice tilt of BG cruxing on that 5.6 slab- is he doing a push-up? We all know that Lumpy can be slabby, but this is slabalicious;)


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Mainliner (5.9) : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: Dood, pop it.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Odessa Gorge : Flattop Mountain - N side : ... : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: Looks like neve snow to 45 degrees on this slope which currently deserves neither an AI rating and never a WI rating. On years where the snow melts down to the underlying ice, it is a AI-1 rated route. Bring the skis this year!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Number 1 Super Guy (5.11a) : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Aug 10, 2011

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Comments: How can there be two bolts 16" apart - is this an aid route?


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Central Chimney (5.7+)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Aug 10, 2011

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Comments: Having climbed this many times to set-up ropes on the neighboring Condones and Autumn Mist (aka Monsoon), I'd respectfully disagree with the way LP recommends climbing this route.

The chimney is a solid 5.9 for 2-3 body lengths and a bit more strenuous than the 5.8 chimney pitch on the Casual Route of the Diamond, so good practice and kudos to Mr. Hornbein for being such a crankmaster in the day! Long pants and shirt aren't a bad idea although it's pretty smooth and not too sharp inside this w... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Needle : Suburban Hangover (5.10c)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: If you come into the first bolt from the right and clip it at your waist, this route feels more like an easy Eldo 10a or pumpy 5.9.

First bolt is a good candidate for stick clipping, and there is usually a large branch at the base for this purpose.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Prospect Mountain : The Thumb : Rest in Peace (5.11c)
By: Eli Helmuth When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: Tough for the grade? Didn't read the description before trying it, so will need to try the funky mantle instead at the start which was the shut down move for me..

Bolting and cleaning could use improvement, but it's not bad and with clean-up (and crux beta) a nice addition to The Thumb. Anchor could be lower or right and last bolt finish is a bit too contrived when you can step a meter right into an easy finish.

Upper crux was pretty fun.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress
By: Eli Helmuth When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: JS said: "The line left of Guillotine is Bosch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid. Most of the bolts are missing. It's possible to toprope the first pitch off the chain anchors left of Guillotine 160-170 feet up. Topher D established the route, placing the bolts on lead, but someone was apparently threatened by its existence and chopped it."

FYI - in 2001 I started replacing these bolts (smashed hangers) by hand drilling and I think Mike Caldwell replaced some of the anchors? I never finished the p... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress
By: Eli Helmuth When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: Good luck finding solid RPs on the main pitch/seam of Cirque de Soleil?
A few bolts past the anchor into the seam - I couldn't find anything that would hold and ended up punching it to the bolts.

When I asked Mike Caldwell about it later, he mentioned getting in a slider nut and 1 offset. We talked about adding some bolts at that time, as w/out sliders it makes a sewn-up climb (bolted/good gear) pretty solid "R" rating?

Let me know if I am missing something on the gear on that second (cru... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : James Peak : Superstar Couloir (5.4) : ... : Photo
By: Eli Helmuth When: Jul 1, 2011

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Comments: That's not the way to accurately measure a slope...looks like you're off by at least 5 or more degrees -
Coombs told me the steepest thing he could ski was 58? (not including cliff and waterfall jumping).
Glad you guys went for it, and way to get it done!


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