Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Stabby


Member Since: Jan 21, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Old and Busted


Point Rank: # 781
Total Points: 838
Last Year: 39
Last 30 Days: 5
36 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Old and Busted been climbing?










Contributions


All 3285 | Routes 3 | Areas 2 | Photos 128 | Page Improvements | Comments 138 | Posts 2966 | Stars 37 | Ratings 11
Page 6 of 6.  <<First   <Prev   4  5  6

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree...
By: Old and Busted When: Mar 27, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Richard, errr, I mean AC;are there some moderate lines for big hens like me?


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Cactus Carrie (5.11b/c)
By: Old and Busted When: Jan 1, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Anyone who thinks Shelf should never have been developed, or acknowledge it as easily within the top 3 Colorado destinations is not worth arguing with. Typical Birkenstock/dreadlocked Boulder trash.F.O. & D


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP
By: Old and Busted When: Oct 7, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Tom Hanson and I have made several references to how snaky C-wood can get at times in our guides. I was at the C-section wall last Sunday with Tom and another buddy, and we had a real snake epic. Heading south towards Sea Breeze, Tom skipped past a bush loaded with them, at least 4 different buzzes, we could see two of them. We carefully backed out of there, and while retracing our steps almost literally had to step over a 4' Western Diamondback. If you are heading there during October, you ... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Inner Canyon area : ... : Overhang Right (V0+)
By: Old and Busted When: Sep 26, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: I think the overhanging slap move on Trailside is a tad harder than V0+, not including actually starting on the 2 lowest holds, which no one does. Be that as it may, the real burly problem I was working way back in the early '90s but never got was to start at the west end, traverse east over to and down into the overhang problem. It's doable, but I'm a fat hen.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Vulture Walls : Blanket of Secrecy (5.12b)
By: Old and Busted When: Sep 24, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Blanket of Secrecy was installed by Tod Anderson, Richard Wright and myself just under the wire of the bolt ban, c. 1990. Both me and Richard bungled attempts for the FA, Tod laughed at us and bagged it (like HE needs another).


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders
By: Old and Busted When: Jan 13, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: What the hell! The comment up top attributed to me is not mine. I just happened to stumble upon this, appearantly anyone can scroll down and use someone else's name. For the record I bouldered there consistantly through the first half of the 90's. Before gyms this was a great place to develop contact strength; and there are many classic- albeit ancient- problems every local climber should be familiar with. As to the a-hole who used my name for that pompous statement up top, grow some ... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Vulture Walls : Pay Attention (5.10d)
By: Old and Busted When: Jan 11, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Pay Attention and Blanket of Secrecy were both installed and led by Tod Anderson, Richard Wright and Mike Lane a week after Ranger Bob gave us a alert on the arrival of the bolting ban.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Neanderthal Wall : Primal Jam (5.11c)
By: Old and Busted When: Nov 16, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: On either side of this crack are 2 of the best remainig lines left at CWC. Richard Wright and I TR'd the roof line to the right a long time ago. Super cool 11A face to the 10' roof with monster jugs all the way, finishes with 10A edges on upper face. The green route to the left will be 45' of overhanging crank. I submitted a proposal to the staff for a new route permit, awaiting the bureaucracy.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : C-Section : First Dibs (5.10c/d)
By: Old and Busted When: Nov 16, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: I listed this as 10.a in the '94 Rock & Ice guide. As Tom, Tod, Richard, Scott and I were there just about every weekend at the time, I'm pretty sure that was consenus. The arete pull is the only "hard" move, and even then only because you can't see the key pocket. Then again, we were on these routes so often that we got inadvertantly sandbaggy. 10b might be right.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Dungeon : Wild America (5.12c)
By: Old and Busted When: Nov 23, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Hasn't anyone redpointed the direct start yet? Richard, I told you shortly before my climbing exile was imposed that this route requires a figure 4 from the base of the nose under the roof to get established. Right fingers into pocket, left foot in scoop, stand up and pinch the potato chip flake. That is the only direct ascent up without the contrived traverse. I came 4" short of the key pinch on my last, best attempt. But heading straight up is .12D minimum.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Dungeon
By: Old and Busted When: Nov 23, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great place to practice Yugoslavian spire-jumping.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : C-Section : Heavy Duty Judy (5.10c)
By: Old and Busted When: Nov 23, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: FFA, bolts by Mike Lane, circa '93.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : C-Section : Beta Slave (5.10c)
By: Old and Busted When: Nov 23, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Not that it matters, since we all TR'd this thing to death as the warm up while developing the other routes on this wall; but I was the bolter, namer and FFA, followed by Richard Wright. And as such, I will shortly replace the spinner crux bolt. I didn't mean to install an auto 10-footer; I just felt that with the balancing involved with gliding thru the crux a clip would be the real crux.


Page 6 of 6.  <<First   <Prev   4  5  6